so im completely fucked now. umm first I had trouble with the windage tray fitting after countless hours banging it into shape so it would clear, then failing and getting washers. anyway finally got it to fit and was torqing down the pick up tube retaining bolt and the head breaks off in the oil pump. this project has been nearly impossible every step of the way. I am ready to just turn it over to a shop or something.

So hear are my options with fixing this

1. buy new bolt and oil pump

2. drill out bolt and tap new threads.

3. reuse stock oil pump with high miles

4. buy a gun and blow my brains out.....

#4 is looking good right now.....


what do you think? End Rant....

 

drill out the bolt and tap new threads. Dont tq the bolt down too hard or thats what happens. This actually happened to me. i would just recommend finding a stainless bolt the same size and using that.

 

#5. Get an easy out and small left hand drill bit, drill it out in the center, if it doesnt come out use the easy out, if it still doesnt come out take it to someone with a welder, have them cover the pump and weld a small nut to whats left of the bolt and it will come right out, and if it doesnt that is WAY to ****** tight.

You will be happy when its all done and you are driving it, I think most of us have been there.

 

yea, it really shouldnt be tightend down that tight. hand tight with some blue loctite. i would also use an EZ out on the bolt, no sense in buying a new pump.

 

Why would you have to bang on the windage tray? Explain.

Ignore the stainless bolt advice, stainless is a lot weaker (less shear strength) than the stock bolt and it is not needed.

 

take it one step at a time...get new arp bolts or the proper grade and do it step by step if it takes 2 damn days then it takes 2 days...just be patient..lotta us have broken many things repeatedly...just takes patience...

 

Take the pump off of the motor, drill it out with a much smaller drill bit so you don't **** up the threads, then disassemble the pump and clean everything really well. Reassemble and reinstall the pump and look up the torque specs before you tighten any more bolts. Those little *** M8(?) bolts only need like 120-130 in/lbs, which is roughly 10-11 ft/lbs.

Also, hopefully to save you some more headache, test fit the dipstick tube before you put the pan on. You should have used washers from the get go, instead of banging the **** out of the windage tray. Make sure you didn't "clearance" the windage tray to where it allows the dipstick to slide in anywhere near the crankshaft.

 

The bolts that hold the pump together and also the ones that hold it to the block are LOW torque. Any bolt that has a 10mm or smaller head has a low torque value. If you want to be sure use locktite, lock washers or safety wire, not more torque. All these bolts have a torque spec.(Helm manual), but you also need to have a "feel" for how hard to twist if you're not using a torque wrench.

 

about 2 minutes google.

# Oil Filter............................................ .................................................2 2 lb ft
# Oil Filter Fitting........................................... .........................................40 lb ft
# Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt.............................................. .....................18 lb ft
# Oil Level Sensor............................................ ...... ................................115 lb in
# Oil Pan Baffle Bolts............................................. ...................................106 lb in
# Oil Pan Closeout Cover Bolt (Left Side)............................................. ........106 lb in
# Oil Pan Closeout Cover Bolt (Right Side)............................................. .......106 lb in
# Oil Pan Cover Bolts............................................. ...................................106 lb in
# Oil Pan Drain Plug.............................................. .....................................18 lb ft
# Oil Pan M8 Bolts (Oil Pan-to-Engine Block and Oil Pan-to-Front Cover)...........18 lb ft
# Oil Pan M6 Bolts (Oil Pan-to-Rear Cover)............................................ .......106 lb in
# Oil Pressure Sensor............................................ .....................................15 lb ft
# Oil Pump-to-Engine Block Bolts............................................. ....................18 lb ft
# Oil Pump Cover Bolts............................................. .................................106 lb in
# Oil Pump Relief Valve Plug.............................................. .........................106 lb in
# Oil Pump Screen Nuts.............................................. ................................18 lb ft
# Oil Pump Screen-to-Oil Pump Bolt.............................................. ...............106 lb in

 

the stock tray does not clear the stroke of a 408. In the book im following, it said you can hammer the spots on the tray where it scrapes to get it to clear. I thought of the washer idea too but it said in the book that the pick up tube would not clear the pan.

ill try this. In my book i thought it said 106 ft/lbs but i guess it must have been in/lbs. I have some old bolts from my old coil packs, looks like they fit.
can i just use one of those to replace it?

 

I wouldn't if I were you. Just go hit up a GM dealership and get a new one. It'll be a few bucks, but it'll be correct. They probably need the business anyways

Did you try to torque that bolt to 106ft/lbs, for real? That should have struck you as wrong before you torqued it. 106ft/lbs is what a 1/2" bolt would torque to, not a little bolt like this. Google some info on bolts, studs, threads and torque specs and be careful.

 

Take this and learn from it. Everyone starts from nothing and works up to something. Mistakes are always made. It's very frustrating, I know from experience myself. When it's all done, you get to sit back and admire what you have done. Everyone on this site has done something silly at 1 point or another. Hell, that's what this site is for, to learn and read and learn from others. Remember to step back for a few when the #4 starts sounding good. Good luck.

 

I did that to the 4.8 in my truck, even with the prescribed amount of torque in the service manual. I extracted it, drilled the hole larger and put a stud in and a nut with some red loctite. Kaboom, clean that **** right up.

 

ok got back from work and cooled off on everything. I was able to get the bolt drilled out of the pump. came out perfectly and absolutely no damage to the pump or threads! looks like nothing ever happened. I got the windage tray to fit and the pick up tube to clear the oil pan.

Im going to start on the heads tomorrow morning. Ive got ARP studs and im wondering if i can use loctite instead of the arp moly assembly lube?

on ARP's website it says its ok.....#7
http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/Answers.html

 

Laughing my ***** off at the thread title

Hope it works out.

.

 

I wouldn't use lok-tight. Use 30wt oil if you don't have the assembly lube. They just go in finger tight.

 

Damn! Bang the tray, I wasn't that much of a rush on my 408. Washers were fine. I did mod the tray with my dremel, I slotted the tray so that the pickup was in the stock location. Perfect PSI. I used a brand new ls6 pump.

 

No kidding thats what I was thinking as well. The main cap bolts that hold the crankshaft use roughly half that torque figure. . . . .

 

Damn 106 FT/LBS wow thats really freakin tight! Yeah that should have struck you when you thought you read it that way. But hey mistakes happen the good thing is you can probably fix it and will pay better attention to torque specs. Its happened to me before.

 

I wouldnt bang the windage tray......use the washer/shim method and dremel out for the pickup location. That way you know it good to go.