ae13291

iTrader: (8)

ok guys i just put in 2 5/16 rods in into the correct holes above the camshaft, the passenger side one was ground a bit flat and the drivers is a full rod. i stuck in the rods and they slid in real easy maybe too eaSy. i put the pushrods back on the lifters to see if its holding and i guess they arent. the lifters are still moving up and down. should i buy even bigger rods?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Do you know what the side of the lifter(where the dowel rod goes) looks like? Apparently not. There is a step in the side of the lifter right where the dowel goes. The step isn't there because of the dowels(this isn't even the GM recommended method for a cam swap). The lifter can move up and down a little bit inside of the retainers even with the dowels in place. This doesn't hurt anything. The only job of the dowels is to keep the lifters from falling during the short period of time(5 min or less if your prepared properly) when the old come is out and the new cam goes in. As long as a lifter doesn't fall the dowels have done their job even if that move up and down a little bit.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

the lifter has a stepped ridge on the side. but for instance if the lifters are low enough they can catch on the cam lobes. thats whats happening in my case since i got 2 lifters that jus wont stay up.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Yes, this can be a problem and is likely worn lifter trays. As stated by "eallanboggs", the dowels simply avert disaster by preventing the lifters from falling. The best advice at this point is to not force anything and think things through. Some guys have put stuff on the rods to help hold the lifters through additional friction, only issue is that if whatever you apply comes off in the motor you have bigger problems. Last time I ran into this, it was the #1 cylinder and I actually used the cam to push the lifter up carefully as I was installing. About the only thing you can do is remove the rods, push the lifters down and then spin the cam again to see if you can get them up far enough to stay up. The rods prevent them from falling out, not from falling down and interfering with the cam removal/installation.

Do you know which lifters?

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

well its the #1 cylinder but i ran into bigger problems i jus stuck a magnet in dat lifter and the magnet got stuck because it wasent centered and now i made it center but now the rod on the magnet is sticking a few inches below the head surface. im fucked i need to remove it

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Is the magnet still attached to the rod or did it come off? What is it sticking to? Once off the lifter, there isn't any steel around for it to stick to.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

That's why you NEVER put a magnet down in there. If you get lucky and get that magnet out don't EVER do that again. You have to spin the cam as you pull on it to get it out. This helps to get the lifters out of the way so the cam can be extracted. The rods keep the lifters from falling while the cam is out not during the extraction process although they can help somewhat. You will also have to spin the new cam as you put it in. You must try to keep the cam level as you remove it. This is easier said than done. You need to sort of lift up on the cam slightly as you spin it AND pull on it to remove it. If this sounds like a lot it is. Just be patient and take your time. Progress is made one lobe at a time here. These cams just don't jump out of the block on their own. A few choice curse words are sometimes required. If you can't get that magnet out you'll have to pull the head. Once the head is off you can take the lifter trays out and remove the lifters. That way you won't need to use the dowel rods after all. See using those magnets can have its' benefits.

DarkJuggalo

iTrader: (6)

ouch, this is why when doing mine in the next week or so im gonna use the dowl, and not even mess with the magnet hehe. magnets= headaches from what ive heard. sorry to hear it man

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

ooh man i consider myself very lucky that we were able to get it out. i was trying for about an hour i grinded down some pliers but that dident work. so my brother was able to remove it with some surgical scissors im really happy it came out. thanks for all the advice guys on removing the cam. i tested to see how the rods are actually holding in the lifters and they really are, i pushed down on the lifter with the pushrod and felt resistance on the dowel rod. i will hopefully get the cam out tommarow, im sure i will be ok by just spinning the cam to get past some of the lifters. i will maybe wrap some tape around the drivers side rod, since the only lifter that is not staying up is #1 cylinder intake.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

It was number one on mine as well. The problem will be when you try and pass the journal by the lifter if it is down too much. I used the cam lobe to gently push it up with the cam during removal. Go slow, take your time and be gentle, don't force anything. If it doesn't come out, put it back in and re-spin the cam. You will eventually get it but the key is not to force anything.

Good luck, it will work out.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Them stoners and their hemostats come in really handy some times

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Do NOT put tape in there. You just got rid of one headache and now your asking for another one. I would use a few extra choice curse words instead of tape. If that tape comes off inside the block how are you planning to get it out. Don't do it. Work slow. Try to keep the cam as level as possible as you remove and install it. The bearing clearances are TIGHT so the journals must be in alignment with the bearings for the cam to pass by. The lifter retainers are supposed to keep the lifters from rotating, but they will actually help hold them up somewhat too. If you have a lifter try out of the engine with the lifters in it you can actually hold the tray in the vertical postition and the lifter won't fall out unless there is a lot of wear on the plastic tray. Once the lifters are up after you spin the cam you put the dowels in and the cams should help hold the lifters up somewhat, but that's not what they are there to do. They are only there to keep the lifters from falling out during the 5 minutes the cam is out. That's why the step in the side of the lifter is important. Remember this in NOT the GM authorized cam swap method. GM says(Helm) you must pull the heads which you don't want to do so be prepared for some road bumps. Turn, spin, wriggle, jiggle, pull and keep it level. These are all words to keep in mind as you pull the cam out.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

Thank you Vettenuts and thank you eallanboggs for all the great advice. i avoid using the tape i sure wouldent want that in the block. i will make sure i have somebody to help me out so they can hold up the condenser.