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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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Need some help here. I'm by far nowhere near a mechanic but i have done my fair share around a motor. I'm replacing the oil pump on my LS1 and while i was in there, i decided to go ahead and replace the timing chain, cam gear, and lower sprocket. I know that i'm supposed to line up the two dots on both gears to get the correct timing but i'm not able to turn the cam. I threaded 3 water pump bolts in the cam to get some leverage for turning it but i started bending the bolts. Whats wrong? Is there something in the valve train thats keeping the cam from moving?
Also i'm thinking about just replacing the cam while im in there. What all should i get when i do the cam as far as the essentials? I don't want ***** to the wall and i want to keep it as cheap as possible without sacrificing quality.
Thanks for any and all help.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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Cam wont spin by hand with the rocker arms torqued down.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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You should have lined the timing marks up before pulling the chain. Somebody with a definate answer will chime in but i'd say the valvetrain (spring pressure) is keeping you from rotating the cam. The cam gear gives the camshaft a ton of mechanical leverage wich you longer have.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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No need to line anything up before pulling the gear, just rotate the crank so that dot is facing up and get the cam gear on and lined up movign one tooth at a time til it gets lined up right. Put a bolt in cam finger tight rotate the crank 720*s, check dots if theyre lined up tighten bolts and put it back together but the rocker arms have to be backed off to do that.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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it wont turn because of the valvetrain pressure the rocker arms are 8mm lossen them all up replace the chain and whatever else your replacing then torque the rockers back down torque specs on on the rockers are 22 ft lbs
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
No need to line anything up before pulling the gear, just rotate the crank so that dot is facing up and get the cam gear on and lined up movign one tooth at a time til it gets lined up right. Put a bolt in cam finger tight rotate the crank 720*s, check dots if theyre lined up tighten bolts and put it back together but the rocker arms have to be backed off to do that.
If the marks are lined up before pulling the gears/chain would'nt that eliminate the need to do all the extra steps you have outlined?
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JFM-jr
If the marks are lined up before pulling the gears/chain would'nt that eliminate the need to do all the extra steps you have outlined?
No, you still have to do it. Whenever you take the cam gear off you should ALWAYS check to make sure the dots line back up again after rotating 720*s. If its one tooth off and youre running a decent sized cam youll be buying a new shortblock or if its a conservative cam youll be down on power.

If he puts a new cam in then its really irrelevant since the dowel on teh cam that goes into the gear is no longer clocked in the same position and you have to do the process I described to get the dots lined up.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:34 PM
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Hey guys, thanks for the quick help.. If i replace the cam, what all do i need or should get with the install?
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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Minimum you will need is hardened pushrods, stouter springs and a cam of your choice. The cam you choose and the lobes its ground on will determine what type of springs you will have to go with. Pat G specs cams and any number of sponsors can sell you the rest.
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