tweakgames

Happy Halloween all,

I am going to be throwing my ls1 around even more violently next year and am making plans to install a dry sump. I am wondering, is there any reason I can't use the rear oil galley port? I will not be using the stock oil pump, I would be blocking it off, and I assume I would need to block off the stock filter and run an inline filter. Any clue where I would find a stock filter block off?

I already have one of these,


Is there any reason I shouldn't just feed it into that directly, and block of the other side, instead of using the rear oil galley?



Would I still need to run the barbell? Anything else I need to worry about?

(EDIT: Is there any reason I can't just go right into the filter out?)

Thanks,
~Tweak

JS01

iTrader: (10)

There are of course a few ways you can skin this cat. Alot of setups just run the main feed line to the 'pressure out' where the oil filter goes on a stock pan setup. ARE does some of theirs this way, their pans already come setup for this if you specify you're using an external pump I believe. What pan are you using?

You can also run it to the external oil galley access that is plugged from the factory if you block off both oil filter ports. Either way you will still need the barbell or a block off/plug in the back of the block

JS01

iTrader: (10)

One way it can be done that I have used before:

tweakgames

Thank you for the response and information JSO1.

I am trying to keep this dry sump as cheap as possible, so I will be trying to mod my stock F-body oil pan like shorttrack on norotors.com (attached)

My stock front pulley is already pretty wobbly, so I need to buy a new one anyways.

Do you see any problems literally plugging into the filters ouput, and somehow blocking off the filter input hole? Does the barbell completely block off oil from going back towards the stock oil pump, or would I need to get a specific block off plate to block that off? Does anybody know where to find them?

Shorttrack from norotors.com told me about the
http://s41657.storefront-solutions.c...l.aspx?ID=3290

JS01

iTrader: (10)

you can use a normal expansion plug to take care of any passages that need to be blocked off. just measure the passages and find appropriately sized expansion plugs. or tap the block/pan and insert some threaded plugs/etc.

I do not think the barbel will completely seal the oil (but probably 90%, i haven't tested this though I should) from going forward to the front of the oil galley. this wont be a major problem though as you can just simply block the front oil passage with whatever method you see fit.

Also I dont see any problem configuring the oil pressure feed to the factory filter output fitting. i'd like to see you successfully setup some sort of budget dry sump setup, and frankly im surprised more dont go this route. keep us posted! have you decided on a pump or amount of stages you would like to run?

tweakgames

I know, and that is what worries me. I feel like I am missing something obvious that will make this not work.

I would like to run a 3 stage, two scavenge one pressure. I would like to run only 3 stage because I don't think I can fit a stage 4 without hitting the motor mount. I should be able too, but I also don't want to pull too much vac.

I HAVE to do this, or I will blow up the motor next year, so it will just be how I do it and how much I spend.

Thanks again for your help, I will keep you posted as I collect parts.

Here is the link to shorttracks thread that gave me some good ideas.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=822.0

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Damn...this is good info. Please keep us posted w/ pics as you continue. Could be good sticky material. Titled something like, "Budget dry sump options."

JS01

iTrader: (10)

What kind of car is this going in? Don't worry I think you have all your bases covered from what I can tell and that you understand how this system needs to operate. 80% of it is just common sense and a little r&d. On a F-body with tubular k-member and solid motor motors you can fit a 4 stage on the passenger side of the block. I'm unsure of any other platforms though, no hands on experience other than with the Fbody. Don't worry about pulling too much vacuum, that can be controlled and is a good problem to have IMO.

I'd rather see you go to a dry sump but have you looked into an accusump setup?

Helpful tip: keep an eye on ebay, theres always NASCAR ARCA/truck series/nationwide take off dry sump parts (pumps tanks etc) on there. you may have a hard time finding less than a 5 stage pump on there but I would recommend sending it off and getting it rebuilt/gone thru anyways. you can have whoever rebuilds the pump reduce the amount of stages.

tweakgames

I was hoping to hide that for a bit in fear of people not wanting to help but this is for my 1988 Mazda Rx7.

Here is a few clips of me on our slow small track to show how mean I am being to the LS1:

http://youtu.be/dxzGm12q6MM

Here is my first attempt at a local 1/2 mile track. (Had too much traction with the normal small track's large tires, lesson learned) Got lucky my 4 pairs of rear tires went out so soon because if I would have kept going there is a good chance I could have starved it for oil.

http://youtu.be/e3nfWsCkOng

But I will be running a full banked 5/8 mile oval track sideways next year, next to other people crazy enough to do it. From all the people I have spoke to that took their LS1s on the 5/8 mile nascar track, I need more than an accusump. Quite a few have learned this the hard way. I would feel better having more than 3 quarts of oil in reserve anyways.

Currently I am running the C5 engine pedestals.


Thanks for the tip on E-bay, I will be keeping an eye out. I did however find a company called http://www.nutterracingengines.com that is located within 3 hours of me. They have a "Three Scavenge, 1.200 Width; Pressure, 1.200 Width" listed on their website for $620. Still more than I would like to pay, so I will continue to look around, but at least I have somewhere to go as a last resort.

Now that I have to pull the engine I can finally do a heads/cam upgrade too.

Thanks for the help and tips. I feel like I really understand what is going on now.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

No worries. Won't find haters here. Many of us run LSX engines in non-GM cars. This is LS1Tech, not GM vs...

Again, please post pics & updates as you build. Would really like the mods to find this thread "sticky" worthy.

95ONE

iTrader: (1)

Did this project ever finish?

LSfan70s

+1. What happened to it? Where you able to get the dry sump working? BTW, is there a recipe that can tell you the pulleys size for a dry sump system on a LS engine? Maybe based on dry sump pump stages size (???)