valve springs
12-05-2011, 08:05 PM
#1
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valve springs going road racing in my 1998 camaro ss and was wondering if anyone knows what the common failure points are on these motors.
Im just looking for reliability ie: valvetrain
Im just looking for reliability ie: valvetrain
12-05-2011, 08:18 PM
#2
For pre '01 LS1 engines the rod bolts are known weak points.
Apart from that, consider that you're planning to put a 14+ year-old engine through 20 or more minutes of continuous abuse in basic hobby-type HPDE tracking. Bearing clearances are likely larger from wear, valvesprings are fatigued, etc. Not a recipe for success.
Apart from that, consider that you're planning to put a 14+ year-old engine through 20 or more minutes of continuous abuse in basic hobby-type HPDE tracking. Bearing clearances are likely larger from wear, valvesprings are fatigued, etc. Not a recipe for success.
12-05-2011, 08:23 PM
#3
dont forget the oiling system, especially on the 98-99. they were not made to operate at high RPM for long periods of time, you are gonna need some nice valve springs, a high flow oil pump (not high volume with stock size oil pan) and some good rod bolts, that will get you set.
12-05-2011, 08:30 PM
#4
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For pre '01 LS1 engines the rod bolts are known weak points.
Apart from that, consider that you're planning to put a 14+ year-old engine through 20 or more minutes of continuous abuse in basic hobby-type HPDE tracking. Bearing clearances are likely larger from wear, valvesprings are fatigued, etc. Not a recipe for success.
Apart from that, consider that you're planning to put a 14+ year-old engine through 20 or more minutes of continuous abuse in basic hobby-type HPDE tracking. Bearing clearances are likely larger from wear, valvesprings are fatigued, etc. Not a recipe for success.
12-05-2011, 08:38 PM
#5
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dont forget the oiling system, especially on the 98-99. they were not made to operate at high RPM for long periods of time, you are gonna need some nice valve springs, a high flow oil pump (not high volume with stock size oil pan) and some good rod bolts, that will get you set.
Can you elaborate on the oil system issues? high flow oil pump meaning flow and pressure?
I've always tracked bmw's as they seem to be ready to go with only some suspension mods, so its interesting to hear what its gonna take to make my camaro a reliable track beater.
btw. I have more fun in the camaro than my bmw. even the though I lap faster with the bmw.
12-05-2011, 08:49 PM
#6
The original LS1 blocks had poor oil transfer passages from the center plenum to the crank passage. It was opened up on later designs to increase flow.
If it was mine, I'd replace the valve springs (PAC 1218 beehives), oil pump (Katech ported), and timing chain (JWIS C5R chain from Katech). Run a high-zinc (good EP lubricant) oil like Red Line or Valvoline VR1 in higher viscosity, and keep the revs below 5000.
If it was mine, I'd replace the valve springs (PAC 1218 beehives), oil pump (Katech ported), and timing chain (JWIS C5R chain from Katech). Run a high-zinc (good EP lubricant) oil like Red Line or Valvoline VR1 in higher viscosity, and keep the revs below 5000.
12-06-2011, 02:16 AM
#7
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The original LS1 blocks had poor oil transfer passages from the center plenum to the crank passage. It was opened up on later designs to increase flow.
If it was mine, I'd replace the valve springs (PAC 1218 beehives), oil pump (Katech ported), and timing chain (JWIS C5R chain from Katech). Run a high-zinc (good EP lubricant) oil like Red Line or Valvoline VR1 in higher viscosity, and keep the revs below 5000.
If it was mine, I'd replace the valve springs (PAC 1218 beehives), oil pump (Katech ported), and timing chain (JWIS C5R chain from Katech). Run a high-zinc (good EP lubricant) oil like Red Line or Valvoline VR1 in higher viscosity, and keep the revs below 5000.
If your engine has provision to fit a chain dampener, do so.
You need a bigger volume & baffled sump & or run an Accusump.
Power steer cooler is a must.
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12-06-2011, 03:00 AM
#8
Below 5000rpm!!! lol the mans road racing. It doesn't matter what chain you use 'but' if you use anything other than the ATI under drive pulley or the standard pulley, 'you will break your chain', eventually, due to bad harmonics.
If your engine has provision to fit a chain dampener, do so.
You need a bigger volume & baffled sump & or run an Accusump.
Power steer cooler is a must.
If your engine has provision to fit a chain dampener, do so.
You need a bigger volume & baffled sump & or run an Accusump.
Power steer cooler is a must.
When he says power steering cooler is a must, i agree with him. but if yours is equipped with one stock, that does not count cause it is a huge POS!!!! get a real one that mounts infront of the radiator.
12-06-2011, 07:17 PM
#10
Take a listen to the LS engines in the C6.R cars during endurance events like Sebring and LeMans, or watch the telemetry. They're not revving the snot out of the engines.
A stock LS1 cam isn't making peak power above 5K anyway, no reason to spend time there. Upshift and put the engine back into its happy place.
Particularly if he's like me and drives the car to/from the HPDE track days. All the really fun road courses are outside the AAA free tow limit.
A stock LS1 cam isn't making peak power above 5K anyway, no reason to spend time there. Upshift and put the engine back into its happy place.
Particularly if he's like me and drives the car to/from the HPDE track days. All the really fun road courses are outside the AAA free tow limit.
12-06-2011, 11:39 PM
#11
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Take a listen to the LS engines in the C6.R cars during endurance events like Sebring and LeMans, or watch the telemetry. They're not revving the snot out of the engines.
A stock LS1 cam isn't making peak power above 5K anyway, no reason to spend time there. Upshift and put the engine back into its happy place.
Particularly if he's like me and drives the car to/from the HPDE track days. All the really fun road courses are outside the AAA free tow limit.
A stock LS1 cam isn't making peak power above 5K anyway, no reason to spend time there. Upshift and put the engine back into its happy place.
Particularly if he's like me and drives the car to/from the HPDE track days. All the really fun road courses are outside the AAA free tow limit.
So you're saying that C6 R cars are changing at what?
My take would be 6k or close.
It all depends on the cam you have and at what rpm peak torque is. My peak torque is 6k so I change at 6k, If I was doing road racing with my old cam TSP 231/237 I would be changing at 6500rpm.
So is anything over 5k, 'ringing the snot' out of an LS motor?
12-07-2011, 06:48 AM
#12
So you are saying he's not cammed! maybe he is! OP hasn't said.
So you're saying that C6 R cars are changing at what?
My take would be 6k or close.
It all depends on the cam you have and at what rpm peak torque is. My peak torque is 6k so I change at 6k, If I was doing road racing with my old cam TSP 231/237 I would be changing at 6500rpm.
So is anything over 5k, 'ringing the snot' out of an LS motor?
So you're saying that C6 R cars are changing at what?
My take would be 6k or close.
It all depends on the cam you have and at what rpm peak torque is. My peak torque is 6k so I change at 6k, If I was doing road racing with my old cam TSP 231/237 I would be changing at 6500rpm.
So is anything over 5k, 'ringing the snot' out of an LS motor?
The design of the oiling system on the LSx engines do suck though. For road racing, you may want to at least add an accusump.
12-07-2011, 11:29 AM
#15
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