what the heck did i do wrong?(leaking head gaskets)
i found more than i expected, there is a tiny scratch in the head in the cylinder where i had a coolant leak, that is kind of what i expected but on 3 other cylinders there is evidence of the head gasket leaking from the chamber right out the side
, what the heck did i do wrong? i used cometic gaskets and arp head studs, i used the arp lube on and under the nuts and tightened them to 65-70ft/lbs. the studs called for 70ft/lbs with the arp lube and 65ft/lbs with aluminum heads. then all the way up to 85ft/lb's if you use motor oil for lube. i am geting the heads surfaced and using factory mls gaskets this time, what might i have done wrong?
Did you happen to use any of that copper spray sealant on the Cometic gaskets? here are 2 pic's, one of the scratch and one of the blown out head gasket.
For an iron block I would go about 72lbft final torque. Start off and do 30lbft first in the factory torque sequence, then do 50lbft, then do the final pass of 72lbft. IIRC I did about 30lbs on the small bolts close to the intake ports using the ARP stud kit.
That scratch don't actually look too bad in the picture.
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the felpro's i have are stock style(old stock that is) for a 6.0, they were cheap too, like $26 for the pair.
i am still not sure wich set of gaskets to use, i could see trying as much as 12+psi some day.
thanks for everyones help.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I use ARP studs with a GM MLS gasket. I used mobile 1 oil as a torquing lube (use ARP lube if possible) and did a torque of 30, 60, 85ft/lbs using the factory torque sequence. **I did not torque them down, loosen them, and then retorque them again as mentioned above. I would think you would want to "crush" the gasket only once IMO
Don't get down man head swaps are easy. Maybe there was just something wrong with the gasket.
i found more than i expected, there is a tiny scratch in the head in the cylinder where i had a coolant leak, that is kind of what i expected but on 3 other cylinders there is evidence of the head gasket leaking from the chamber right out the side
, what the heck did i do wrong? i used cometic gaskets and arp head studs, i used the arp lube on and under the nuts and tightened them to 65-70ft/lbs. the studs called for 70ft/lbs with the arp lube and 65ft/lbs with aluminum heads. then all the way up to 85ft/lb's if you use motor oil for lube. i am geting the heads surfaced and using factory mls gaskets this time, what might i have done wrong?
I do a lot of blocks of all makes and models. Some of the Honda engines run well over thirty pounds of boost with the Cometic gaskets. You need to follow directions for these gaskets to work. Use no sealer of any kind on the Cometic gaskets. They have a nitrile coating applied at the factory. The coating will not do it's job if you apply sealers to the gasket face. You must retorque the nuts on the head studs after running. Get the engine hot, (take it for a ride) let it cool down, then loosen the nuts one at a time and retorque to spec. Do this in the correct sequence, center out. If you do not retorque, failure is guaranteed.
Fel Pro does not recommend their 1041 gasket for more than ten pounds of boost. If you plan on running anywhere near ten pounds of boost do not run the Fel Pro gasket, it will fail.
One of the best features of the Cometic gasket is the spring steel face. This face will help seal the head block interface during hard running when the head is bound to lift a bit off the block. The weak area of the LS1 - LS6 engines is the design using only ten bolts per head. The small block engine has seventeen providing much better and more even clamping.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
what are the spacifics for using the factory mls gaskets? do i need to retorqe after a heat cycle? copper sealant or not?
There is nothing like experience like steve has...if I run into problems i will know what to do.





