Let's get a discussion going regarding valve spring selection and installation. Do we all know understand the terminology?

 

Well not to far off topic (sorry PSJ), but who would spring $120 for this spring compressor. It does 2 at a time and seems like the safest, fastest and maybe the easiest to use while heads are in the car.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=newPr...66ca1734831724

 

It looks pretty good to me. But to be honest with you, I'm cheap. I'd rather buy the one that costs $25 and do them 1 at a time. With the $95 that I saved I could put that towards more go fast stuff . But that's just me. It's looks like a pretty good tool to have though.

 

Most of this is documented on my site....

Parts:


Install instructions
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23#part3

 

If you change springs in the car, do you have to use compressed air to keep the valves from falling?

I really like that dual spring compressor, but would you have to use 2 air hoses?

Obviously you want to select a spring setup that will handle the lift of your cam! That would be your first priority when selecting in my opinion! I would also think that you can't go wrong by selecting springs that are almost overkill for your cam. Am I wrong?

 

Yes you have to use air, and no, not two hoses. You compress one int/exh pair at a time.

 

Aight, cool! Thanks Scott!

 

What spring removal method has been known to break the bolts in the head? I know there has to be at least one b/c for awhile there all you could read about was "broken bolt-in head during spring swap". If you could see the other 3 pics I posted (I can't anymore) it would do the Crane tool more justice. It should in theory cut spring swap times in half but at a bit more cost.

 

I just used the TDC method and did not use an air compressor to hold the vlaves up.

 

I used the TDC method also the only drawback was the fuggin baterry went dead by the time i got to the pass side

 

I used the TDC method also. I works great, just keep track of where your at and dont let a valve drop or you'll be pulling a head. I used a soda straw in the sparkplug hole to help me set it to the top. If the plugs are out you can turn the engine over by the pulley with a socket.

Maybe someone can expand on installed height and the equipment needed to check it.

 

Yep, TDC is easiest, IMO.

I think we need solid explanations as to how certain aspects of the valve spring are ascertained:

• Amount of lift a spring can be subjected to as a function on installed height
• Tools needed, including part #s and sources to buy the them, to setup the proper install height
• What is coil bind, how do we avoid it, etc

Those are just a few...

 

Installed height is the measurement between the top and bottom edges of a spring when it is installed in the head with a valve. Easiest way to set it is:

1. Measure height of spring uncompressed (hold it in your hand and measure top to bottom with a caliper).

2. Place a valve in the head, put the retainer and keepers on it (no spring). Measure distance between bottom of retainer (where the spring would touch it) and the spring seat in head. You can use a rag or something in the chamber to keep the valve pushed up when you set the head on a bench if it is off the car.

3. Use shims (in the valve spring seat) to set distance to whatever spec the spring manufacturer states. In case it is already too short of a distance, you will need to either;4. Re-install valve with spring, retainer and keepers and check again

5. Rinse and repeat until correct height is attained.

 

I use the TDC method also.

Scott - Excellent information.

 

I use the More tool with air in the cumbustion chamber. Can do them very quickly.