How would you have this built block fixed?
#1
How would you have this built block fixed?
Welp, build #1 was a failure. I took a stock ls1 and had a local machine shop turn it into a forged 347. It is using wiseco 3.905 pistons and callies compstar rods with the stock crank. In other words, a pretty common, basic build.
Two cylinders were burning oil and fouling plugs within 30 miles after only 500 miles on the motor. So I popped the head off and found this on both cylinders...The walls are completely gouged.
I brought this to the machine shop's attention and his first suggestion was to hone that back out and possibly knurl the pistons. I am not sure I like that idea...
He then suggested it may have to be resleeved, which I like better.
The motor was not torque plated, however, I do not think that is what caused this issue. Looks like the bore just wasn't clearanced properly or the ring wasn't deburred or something. With that being said, should I have all 8 cylinders torque plate honed while it is out?
How would you have this mistake fixed? Source another block and start over? Resleeve? Try to save that bore?
Two cylinders were burning oil and fouling plugs within 30 miles after only 500 miles on the motor. So I popped the head off and found this on both cylinders...The walls are completely gouged.
I brought this to the machine shop's attention and his first suggestion was to hone that back out and possibly knurl the pistons. I am not sure I like that idea...
He then suggested it may have to be resleeved, which I like better.
The motor was not torque plated, however, I do not think that is what caused this issue. Looks like the bore just wasn't clearanced properly or the ring wasn't deburred or something. With that being said, should I have all 8 cylinders torque plate honed while it is out?
How would you have this mistake fixed? Source another block and start over? Resleeve? Try to save that bore?
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
having an ls1 block, depending on how much was already honed you may have only two choices.
A, the block is honed out to tis max already and the block is junk
B, have it sleeved,a nd if youre gonna pay to do that, you may as well go for a bigger bore.
The gouges look pretty deep, and stock blocks only have about .05 worth of play to hone
A, the block is honed out to tis max already and the block is junk
B, have it sleeved,a nd if youre gonna pay to do that, you may as well go for a bigger bore.
The gouges look pretty deep, and stock blocks only have about .05 worth of play to hone
#5
Seeing if Texas Speed will help me out here
I sent them a message asking me if they can build me a motor out of my existing pistons/rods/crank.
If I would only have to lose a grand, I would take that deal in a heartbeat. Should have just gone with them in the first place. I wanted to save on freight and look where that got me.
I sent them a message asking me if they can build me a motor out of my existing pistons/rods/crank.
If I would only have to lose a grand, I would take that deal in a heartbeat. Should have just gone with them in the first place. I wanted to save on freight and look where that got me.
#6
Seeing if Texas Speed will help me out here
I sent them a message asking me if they can build me a motor out of my existing pistons/rods/crank.
If I would only have to lose a grand, I would take that deal in a heartbeat. Should have just gone with them in the first place. I wanted to save on freight and look where that got me.
I sent them a message asking me if they can build me a motor out of my existing pistons/rods/crank.
If I would only have to lose a grand, I would take that deal in a heartbeat. Should have just gone with them in the first place. I wanted to save on freight and look where that got me.
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
who did the machine work, spec'd the parts, and assemble it?
It might not be a all out race engine. But thats the stuff I would do, to get my snowblower up and running for a few more times when its on its last leg. Who knurls pistons anymore? The tooling for that should have been thrown out 40 years ago. They brought that up with a strait face to your nice parts with 500 miles on them.
It might not be a all out race engine. But thats the stuff I would do, to get my snowblower up and running for a few more times when its on its last leg. Who knurls pistons anymore? The tooling for that should have been thrown out 40 years ago. They brought that up with a strait face to your nice parts with 500 miles on them.
#16
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
They did it all wrong the first time and not using torque plates to me says they CHOSE to do it halfassed, then the two cylinders that went to hell say they can't even halfass things functionally.
I would not let a shop that did a bore/hone without a torque plate and screwed up the rings as it seems those were do something as complicated as sleeves. I understand wanting to stop spending money but in the end I suspect their best work will be less than stock quality and even if it is OK you are never going to feel confident that it is really right.
I would not let a shop that did a bore/hone without a torque plate and screwed up the rings as it seems those were do something as complicated as sleeves. I understand wanting to stop spending money but in the end I suspect their best work will be less than stock quality and even if it is OK you are never going to feel confident that it is really right.
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Mahle makes a forged 3.908" bore piston...i had them in my old 98 Z28 motor...If your cylinders can be cleaned up by being honed .003", this is a viable option for you. the Mahle pistons are fully coated, not just the sideskirts, with an antifriction coating and look like a greyish green color, but they are very nice quality! Mahle pistons are very underrated on this board...plus, mahle makes the stock LS1 pistons.