I've got a stock bottom end LQ9 in my Fox right now. It runs pretty good to me at 10.50's @ 128. I wanted to spray it, but not with the pistons that are in it (long story).

I have another 6.0 engine. I thought about putting some forged rods and pistons in that motor over the winter, then putting my top end on it so I can spray the car.

BUT, by the time I buy forged rods, pistons and have it balanced for a few hundred more I can buy a stroker rotating assembly and make it a 402.

I want to stay on pump gas for the NA runs, so I'm not sure how much I'd benefit from the extra cubes or if it would be worth the extra $'s

What do you think?

 

A "cheap" rotating assembly will need to be rebalanced so consider that when eyeballing prices. IMO the cost difference will be mostly polishing the stock crank journals vs. purchasing a new aftermarket crank, and if a chinese crank the machineshop might even find it needs some machining touchup(more cost) before it can be used.

If you have the budget go for it, but if you are looking at things and thinking it is a $300 total price difference than forget it because the final extra cost is going to be a lot more than you think when just looking at the catalog

 

stroke it. You will most likely regret it later.

 

I would definitely recommend the stroker. It will pick up a lot of torque that the stock stoke motors lack. Obviously your car is pretty small but I still think there would be a notable difference.

 

No replacement for displacement. Period

 

displacement works if you have the topend to feed it. If your budget forces you to choose you need to consider can you afford to feed it later or are you doing this ONCE, if ONCE then maybe money is better spent on the topend.

 

If you can afford it, stroke it. The LS3 heads flow enough air to keep up with the cubes

 

THIS RIGHT HERE! Displacement isn't always everything. The power is in the top end, im sure everyone here can agree on that.

 

Im on this fence myself, and what makes it harder is i have a completely bare LQ4, so i have a blank canvass. Do i get a stock crank a forge the rods and pistons for a 364ish turbo build, or stroke it to 402/3/8 size? The added cost of a forged crank is 800 to 1000 depending on brand where a stock LQ4/LS gm crank can be had for 200 or less, and has been proven to handle 1000hp. I know forged can add piece of mind, but trying to figure where to spend money is the hard part when deciding in this area. Keeping the power streetable in a 1000hp turboed engine is hard only cause theirs so many options now lol

 

Except twin turbos

 

Dang man why do you keep bringing back ancient threads?

 

Aww go easy man! lol It's only EIGHT years old....

 

NECROMANCER! 😁
Well its either dig up the dead or beat the dead horse in another thread. Plus alot of these threads are either out of date or need people to see that people have been asking thesame questions since 2005. At least it keeps the google searches smaller

 

Agreed. Nothing wrong at all bringing up old threads if the discussion is relevant today. That’s why they are archived instead of being deleted after an X amount of time. And shoot, if Gatsma didn’t comment on the post date, he’d only have 500 posts. He’s a regular necro po po.

 

Truth...

 

Oh the hurt.....

 

*BRING OUT YOUR DEAD! 😁
but in any case, im at this stage in my life where I can afford, and have time to actually do something like this finally. ive had the car since 2005, and other than the typical mods, the old 98 LS1 has been unmolested other than an LS6 manifold.
I got myself a 6.0L bareback cheap that I couldnt pass up, and honestly, I almost wished the crank was still in it, cause then i would have been left with one less option really lol, but now the possibilities are only up to my wallet and how much I really wan to spend in time and money.
I want to build a street stomping LS with turbo, and either route can do it, its just how hard do I want the engine to work to get there?
Whats the trade off between going the forged stroker 402 or a stock/forged 364 route with boost building power up to say 1000hp for example? low 93 friendly CR with meth/water decent flowing stock heads and a turbo friendly cam with a healthy fuel system feeding it and a tune that won't melt the pistons or send them priority express threw your hood? Obviously the more power the engine makes N/a, the more it will make under boost, and less booat will be needed to get there.

 

LOL -- He says he's not dead yet.
I don't want to go on the cart
Don't be such a baby.