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Old 05-29-2014, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by b0b
Yes the track Im going to on June 14 is a 1/4. It hooks extremely well. I cut a 1.6x there with the car when it was 340whp bolt ons
If you can get the same 60' I see 7.30's in your future.

Not bad at all with a 6 speed!
Old 06-04-2014, 07:56 PM
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Any numbers on the street heat stage 2? Im considering this one for my LS6
Old 06-05-2014, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by camaroboricua
Any numbers on the street heat stage 2? Im considering this one for my LS6
Normally in cam only trim we see 390-410rwhp/370-385rwtq.

From what I have found exhaust plays a large part in which end of this range you will find yourself in on dyno day.
Old 06-05-2014, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Normally in cam only trim we see 390-410rwhp/370-385rwtq.

From what I have found exhaust plays a large part in which end of this range you will find yourself in on dyno day.

How much do you think 1 7/8" headers would help with the sns stage 3. Right now I have 1 3/4" OBX-r headers and I made 424rwhp
Old 06-05-2014, 10:58 AM
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Im looking to get into the 420 range. My setup is ls6 intake, 243 heads, tb, 36 lb injectors, no maf(sd tune), t56, moser rear with 4.11, hooker LT's, custom y with cut out into SLP 2OTL. Right now the car put down 367hp/368tq. Im not sure if the heads have been milled or not since this is how i bought the car. What cam would you recommend? I really like how the sns line makes power throuhgout but im afraid of ptv since i dont know for sure heads are stock. My tuner is goinh to check ptv before start up though.
Old 06-05-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 97camaro383
How much do you think 1 7/8" headers would help with the sns stage 3. Right now I have 1 3/4" OBX-r headers and I made 424rwhp
IMO it's not just the header or the primary tube diameter that makes a difference or matters most.

The best thing you can do IMO is go with a very high quality long tube header like an American Racing Header. The reason I mention ARH is due to their attention to detail when it comes to the little things, and not just pretty welds. Pretty welds won't make your car fast, what I'm about to mention will.

What they do is at the joining of the 4 primary tubes, the collectors diameter is smaller than at the exit of the collector. This creates a venturi and a high velocity low pressure area that really allows scavenging during overlap to work even further towards producing optimum VE. This speeds up outgoing gas and lowers pressure that allows higher pressure exhaust gas further upstream to literally be pulled out by this venturi effect.

The more overlap the camshaft has the more important this is.

Also ARH uses a merged collector instead of a stamped or a crushed collector with a velocity spike. Just changing the angles that the primaries join together at the collector can have an affect on the power band and torque production.

Most Y pipes as well have horrible merges that neck down to very small diameters.

With the Y-pipe merge the best thing you can do in terms of cost and performance is buy a 3" inlet 4" outlet Flowmaster Merge(Burns and a few others make even higher quality higher performing Y merges). Then by a 4" section of pipe for your intermediate. Then reduce the 4" pipe back down to 3" and connect it to your existing cat-back.

IMO the BEST thing to do in that case is buy a 4" cut-out and place that in your 4" I-pipe and then reduce it back down to 3" and connect to your cat-back.

A good y-pipe merge will also utilize the venturi effect just as a good collector will.

Go and look at your collectors and y-pipe merge after you read this. If your car does not employ either of these you're leaving power on the table.

Of course true duals trumps all of this, but the X-pipe merger is just as important as the y-pipe merger.

Here is a good picture showing the megaphone/venturi collector design.

Originally Posted by camaroboricua
Im looking to get into the 420 range. My setup is ls6 intake, 243 heads, tb, 36 lb injectors, no maf(sd tune), t56, moser rear with 4.11, hooker LT's, custom y with cut out into SLP 2OTL. Right now the car put down 367hp/368tq. Im not sure if the heads have been milled or not since this is how i bought the car. What cam would you recommend? I really like how the sns line makes power throuhgout but im afraid of ptv since i dont know for sure heads are stock. My tuner is goinh to check ptv before start up though.
Honestly our 229/232 .615/.575 113+3 will most likely make the power you want, but if you'd like to ensure you hit 420rwhp then the SH Stage 2 will be your best bet.
Old 06-05-2014, 05:18 PM
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Honestly our 229/232 .615/.575 113+3 will most likely make the power you want, but if you'd like to ensure you hit 420rwhp then the SH Stage 2 will be your best bet.[/QUOTE]

Cool, I really like the specs on the SH Stage 2. and it sounds great too. Im not finding much info on it as far as personal experiences with it but the few I have seen are good. I also kinda looked at the SNS LS2 Satge 2.
Old 06-05-2014, 07:18 PM
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The LS2 SNS Stage 2 opens the intake valve one degree earlier then the SH Stage 2. Honestly the P to V should be within .004" with those two camshafts in regards to the intake valve.
Old 06-05-2014, 09:49 PM
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Even with the 111 vs 113 lsa?
Old 06-06-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
IMO it's not just the header or the primary tube diameter that makes a difference or matters most.

The best thing you can do IMO is go with a very high quality long tube header like an American Racing Header. The reason I mention ARH is due to their attention to detail when it comes to the little things, and not just pretty welds. Pretty welds won't make your car fast, what I'm about to mention will.

What they do is at the joining of the 4 primary tubes, the collectors diameter is smaller than at the exit of the collector. This creates a venturi and a high velocity low pressure area that really allows scavenging during overlap to work even further towards producing optimum VE. This speeds up outgoing gas and lowers pressure that allows higher pressure exhaust gas further upstream to literally be pulled out by this venturi effect.

The more overlap the camshaft has the more important this is.

Also ARH uses a merged collector instead of a stamped or a crushed collector with a velocity spike. Just changing the angles that the primaries join together at the collector can have an affect on the power band and torque production.

Most Y pipes as well have horrible merges that neck down to very small diameters.

With the Y-pipe merge the best thing you can do in terms of cost and performance is buy a 3" inlet 4" outlet Flowmaster Merge(Burns and a few others make even higher quality higher performing Y merges). Then by a 4" section of pipe for your intermediate. Then reduce the 4" pipe back down to 3" and connect it to your existing cat-back.

IMO the BEST thing to do in that case is buy a 4" cut-out and place that in your 4" I-pipe and then reduce it back down to 3" and connect to your cat-back.

A good y-pipe merge will also utilize the venturi effect just as a good collector will.

Go and look at your collectors and y-pipe merge after you read this. If your car does not employ either of these you're leaving power on the table.

Of course true duals trumps all of this, but the X-pipe merger is just as important as the y-pipe merger.

Here is a good picture showing the megaphone/venturi collector design.
I don't think my piggy bank is gonna let me get the ARH headers LOL but I do agree that they are top notch headers. I've been looking at getting the Speed Engineering 1 7/8" headers and I have all the pieces to make a new y pipe with the merge and cutout that you mentioned. Just waiting on getting new headers first. Thanks for the info Martin!
Old 06-06-2014, 12:06 PM
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What kind of numbers are you guys seeing out of the ls1 sns stage 2?
Old 06-06-2014, 03:25 PM
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I sent you an email Martin.
Old 06-06-2014, 03:41 PM
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I had to spend all of my cam money on other stuff, now I have to save again. fml
Old 06-06-2014, 04:34 PM
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I have LT's to a 4 inch merge to 4 inch bullet into 4 inch cutout, and a lid and I put down 347/354. Just installed Torquemax Stage 2 into the car and before the tune this car is running GREAT. Can't say enough how much I love this cam so far. Getting tuned tomorrow and will make a thread with numbers
Old 06-06-2014, 06:16 PM
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Still no SNS stage 1 in anything but trucks?
Old 06-06-2014, 08:00 PM
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Email also sent earlier today.
Old 06-15-2014, 12:41 AM
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Loved my Mild Stage 2 SNS. Made 440/438(ish, pending dyno) with 205cc Dart heads, pacesetter headers.
Old 06-16-2014, 09:43 PM
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Video of my car idling after the tune. SNS Stage 2 cam.
Old 06-17-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mac62989
Still no SNS stage 1 in anything but trucks?
I have one customer in a full weight 4th gen with a the SNS Stage 1.

He runs 7.40's-7.50's@93-94mph on motor and has been mid 6's on a small shot of nitrous.
Old 06-26-2014, 02:34 PM
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Hi, I have a 2002 camaro ss with a 6.0l LQ9 swapped in running the sns stage 2 mild, stock 317 heads with btr springs, slp lid and coupler, ls6 intake and injectors, ARH 1 7/8" longtubes with catted Y and slp exhaust. My question is what spark plugs would you recommend, stock 41-110 or from what i have found to be 1 range colder the 41-104?
also do you have any recommendation on injectors or will the stockers hold up for a while?


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