New cams from Tick Performance
#885
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Im looking to get into the 420 range. My setup is ls6 intake, 243 heads, tb, 36 lb injectors, no maf(sd tune), t56, moser rear with 4.11, hooker LT's, custom y with cut out into SLP 2OTL. Right now the car put down 367hp/368tq. Im not sure if the heads have been milled or not since this is how i bought the car. What cam would you recommend? I really like how the sns line makes power throuhgout but im afraid of ptv since i dont know for sure heads are stock. My tuner is goinh to check ptv before start up though.
#886
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The best thing you can do IMO is go with a very high quality long tube header like an American Racing Header. The reason I mention ARH is due to their attention to detail when it comes to the little things, and not just pretty welds. Pretty welds won't make your car fast, what I'm about to mention will.
What they do is at the joining of the 4 primary tubes, the collectors diameter is smaller than at the exit of the collector. This creates a venturi and a high velocity low pressure area that really allows scavenging during overlap to work even further towards producing optimum VE. This speeds up outgoing gas and lowers pressure that allows higher pressure exhaust gas further upstream to literally be pulled out by this venturi effect.
The more overlap the camshaft has the more important this is.
Also ARH uses a merged collector instead of a stamped or a crushed collector with a velocity spike. Just changing the angles that the primaries join together at the collector can have an affect on the power band and torque production.
Most Y pipes as well have horrible merges that neck down to very small diameters.
With the Y-pipe merge the best thing you can do in terms of cost and performance is buy a 3" inlet 4" outlet Flowmaster Merge(Burns and a few others make even higher quality higher performing Y merges). Then by a 4" section of pipe for your intermediate. Then reduce the 4" pipe back down to 3" and connect it to your existing cat-back.
IMO the BEST thing to do in that case is buy a 4" cut-out and place that in your 4" I-pipe and then reduce it back down to 3" and connect to your cat-back.
A good y-pipe merge will also utilize the venturi effect just as a good collector will.
Go and look at your collectors and y-pipe merge after you read this. If your car does not employ either of these you're leaving power on the table.
Of course true duals trumps all of this, but the X-pipe merger is just as important as the y-pipe merger.
Here is a good picture showing the megaphone/venturi collector design.
![](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/megaphone_zps76399787.jpg)
Im looking to get into the 420 range. My setup is ls6 intake, 243 heads, tb, 36 lb injectors, no maf(sd tune), t56, moser rear with 4.11, hooker LT's, custom y with cut out into SLP 2OTL. Right now the car put down 367hp/368tq. Im not sure if the heads have been milled or not since this is how i bought the car. What cam would you recommend? I really like how the sns line makes power throuhgout but im afraid of ptv since i dont know for sure heads are stock. My tuner is goinh to check ptv before start up though.
#887
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Honestly our 229/232 .615/.575 113+3 will most likely make the power you want, but if you'd like to ensure you hit 420rwhp then the SH Stage 2 will be your best bet.[/QUOTE]
Cool, I really like the specs on the SH Stage 2. and it sounds great too. Im not finding much info on it as far as personal experiences with it but the few I have seen are good. I also kinda looked at the SNS LS2 Satge 2.
Cool, I really like the specs on the SH Stage 2. and it sounds great too. Im not finding much info on it as far as personal experiences with it but the few I have seen are good. I also kinda looked at the SNS LS2 Satge 2.
#890
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IMO it's not just the header or the primary tube diameter that makes a difference or matters most.
The best thing you can do IMO is go with a very high quality long tube header like an American Racing Header. The reason I mention ARH is due to their attention to detail when it comes to the little things, and not just pretty welds. Pretty welds won't make your car fast, what I'm about to mention will.
What they do is at the joining of the 4 primary tubes, the collectors diameter is smaller than at the exit of the collector. This creates a venturi and a high velocity low pressure area that really allows scavenging during overlap to work even further towards producing optimum VE. This speeds up outgoing gas and lowers pressure that allows higher pressure exhaust gas further upstream to literally be pulled out by this venturi effect.
The more overlap the camshaft has the more important this is.
Also ARH uses a merged collector instead of a stamped or a crushed collector with a velocity spike. Just changing the angles that the primaries join together at the collector can have an affect on the power band and torque production.
Most Y pipes as well have horrible merges that neck down to very small diameters.
With the Y-pipe merge the best thing you can do in terms of cost and performance is buy a 3" inlet 4" outlet Flowmaster Merge(Burns and a few others make even higher quality higher performing Y merges). Then by a 4" section of pipe for your intermediate. Then reduce the 4" pipe back down to 3" and connect it to your existing cat-back.
IMO the BEST thing to do in that case is buy a 4" cut-out and place that in your 4" I-pipe and then reduce it back down to 3" and connect to your cat-back.
A good y-pipe merge will also utilize the venturi effect just as a good collector will.
Go and look at your collectors and y-pipe merge after you read this. If your car does not employ either of these you're leaving power on the table.
Of course true duals trumps all of this, but the X-pipe merger is just as important as the y-pipe merger.
Here is a good picture showing the megaphone/venturi collector design.
![](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/megaphone_zps76399787.jpg)
The best thing you can do IMO is go with a very high quality long tube header like an American Racing Header. The reason I mention ARH is due to their attention to detail when it comes to the little things, and not just pretty welds. Pretty welds won't make your car fast, what I'm about to mention will.
What they do is at the joining of the 4 primary tubes, the collectors diameter is smaller than at the exit of the collector. This creates a venturi and a high velocity low pressure area that really allows scavenging during overlap to work even further towards producing optimum VE. This speeds up outgoing gas and lowers pressure that allows higher pressure exhaust gas further upstream to literally be pulled out by this venturi effect.
The more overlap the camshaft has the more important this is.
Also ARH uses a merged collector instead of a stamped or a crushed collector with a velocity spike. Just changing the angles that the primaries join together at the collector can have an affect on the power band and torque production.
Most Y pipes as well have horrible merges that neck down to very small diameters.
With the Y-pipe merge the best thing you can do in terms of cost and performance is buy a 3" inlet 4" outlet Flowmaster Merge(Burns and a few others make even higher quality higher performing Y merges). Then by a 4" section of pipe for your intermediate. Then reduce the 4" pipe back down to 3" and connect it to your existing cat-back.
IMO the BEST thing to do in that case is buy a 4" cut-out and place that in your 4" I-pipe and then reduce it back down to 3" and connect to your cat-back.
A good y-pipe merge will also utilize the venturi effect just as a good collector will.
Go and look at your collectors and y-pipe merge after you read this. If your car does not employ either of these you're leaving power on the table.
Of course true duals trumps all of this, but the X-pipe merger is just as important as the y-pipe merger.
Here is a good picture showing the megaphone/venturi collector design.
![](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/megaphone_zps76399787.jpg)
#894
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I have LT's to a 4 inch merge to 4 inch bullet into 4 inch cutout, and a lid and I put down 347/354. Just installed Torquemax Stage 2 into the car and before the tune this car is running GREAT. Can't say enough how much I love this cam so far. Getting tuned tomorrow and will make a thread with numbers
#900
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Hi, I have a 2002 camaro ss with a 6.0l LQ9 swapped in running the sns stage 2 mild, stock 317 heads with btr springs, slp lid and coupler, ls6 intake and injectors, ARH 1 7/8" longtubes with catted Y and slp exhaust. My question is what spark plugs would you recommend, stock 41-110 or from what i have found to be 1 range colder the 41-104?
also do you have any recommendation on injectors or will the stockers hold up for a while?
also do you have any recommendation on injectors or will the stockers hold up for a while?