what weight oil?
I would look less at weight and more at the high temperature viscosity and the additive package.
But it also depends on your lifters. Good lifters run super tight tolerances and they dont work well with thick oil. If you are running a set of sloppy ls7 lifters that tick etc it might actually help. In general I consider 50w (variable or straight) too heavy for a hydraulic lifter motor.
I would look less at weight and more at the high temperature viscosity and the additive package.
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Russ Kemp
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
LSx engines are absolutely NOTHING special. They are every day, ordinary V8 engines. Any oil that anyone uses in ANY type of mildly modded, medium or heavily modded...or fully built forged stroker engine.....can use ANY type of oil.
The only time you need to use a specific type of oil is when your builder tells you to, or if the engine is built with very specific tolerances and it needs a special type of oil.
My fully forged 427ci stroker used off-the-shelf NON-synthetic cheap *** Castrol GTX 20w50 and Purolator filters. It had 173,000 miles on it when it finally snapped a rod at 150mph.
Oil is bullshit.......synthetic oil is BIG bullshit.
Change it every 3000......thats ALL you can do to protect your engine. There's no super-duper magical oil thats gonna do anything that regular cheap oil won't do. And use an oil filter magnet. You'll be amazed at what it captures.
BTW....my new AES 390ci fully forged engine....its getting valvoline VR1 20w50 from day one. Thats what AES recommends and they haven't had any issues yet......these engines have been running good for like 3 years now for them.
.
I know about a dozen guys locally that do what I do...cheap *** oil and 3000 mile changes. These are the people with zero failures and their engines last forever.
The verdict is in.
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Dr. Whigham, when you did you heads/cam install, did you use a "break in oil" and then change the oil right afterwards? If not, what did you do?
I didn't use break in oi for the heads and cam. I used regular Castrol Edge w/ titanium, the gold bottles, but I changed it after 1k miles, and I have ALWAYS used WIX 51522 oil filters. The long truck ones.
As an aside though, with the VR1 I can hear the valvetrain a LOT more now. It was actually quieter with the Edge. That was the whole reason I spit on Mobil 1 now was b/c of the valvetrain noise. When I tried the Edge it was like firing up a new car. Almost silent. I'd kill to see a UOA from our cars with the Edge w/ Titanium. SOMETHING in that oil that's not detergent makes both my H/C/I car, as well as my LQ9 Escalade dead quiet.
I very well may go back to Edge and run a bottle of ZDDPlus with it. I'm not sure what to think with the noise now with the VR1. But blue oil is cool as ****, I don't care what anyone says, LOL
I didn't use break in oi for the heads and cam. I used regular Castrol Edge w/ titanium, the gold bottles, but I changed it after 1k miles, and I have ALWAYS used WIX 51522 oil filters. The long truck ones.
As an aside though, with the VR1 I can hear the valvetrain a LOT more now. It was actually quieter with the Edge. That was the whole reason I spit on Mobil 1 now was b/c of the valvetrain noise. When I tried the Edge it was like firing up a new car. Almost silent. I'd kill to see a UOA from our cars with the Edge w/ Titanium. SOMETHING in that oil that's not detergent makes both my H/C/I car, as well as my LQ9 Escalade dead quiet.
I very well may go back to Edge and run a bottle of ZDDPlus with it. I'm not sure what to think with the noise now with the VR1. But blue oil is cool as ****, I don't care what anyone says, LOL
What weight of Castrol did you use for the break-in period? 10w30 or 5w30? Why did you not use the ZZD Plus with the Castrol; does it already contain it?
I wish they sold the German Castrol here in Jefferson City. I looked, but couldn't find it.








