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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:27 AM
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I have a 6.0 lsx that I put a Texas Speed cam and a few other goodies in. I was told yesterday from a fellow LS owner, that I should run the Valvoline ZR 20w-50 race oil. Is this true? Seems kinda heavy to me. Thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:29 AM
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I would not unless the rods and mains are very very loose.

Tim
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:35 AM
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^^ most of what you hear will be personal preference, there is not a magic oil or specific weight that is perfect for everyone, imo that sounds a bit heavy, I run 5or10w30 in my car.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:40 AM
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I run 30W oils but look at the viscosity at 100 degrees C. I prefer the oils in the upper range of 30W. German Castrol 0W30 is one oil in the upper end of the range. I am now running Amsoil Z-Rod oil, again in the upper range, that also includes levels of ZDDP and phosphorous not allowed in the latest EPA regulations. With an aftermarket valve train, I believe you are asking for trouble with some of the new oils and their limited use of these additives in their formulation.

I would look less at weight and more at the high temperature viscosity and the additive package.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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^^^^^^^what vettenuts said.

But it also depends on your lifters. Good lifters run super tight tolerances and they dont work well with thick oil. If you are running a set of sloppy ls7 lifters that tick etc it might actually help. In general I consider 50w (variable or straight) too heavy for a hydraulic lifter motor.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:14 AM
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I agree with vettenuts. I am running VR-1 conventional 10W-30 on my new build and will switch over to German Castrol after I reach the 1K mark. VR-1 10w-30 is a little hard to find . Some auto parts stores only stock it in 50W , but Auto Zone carries it. Oh and it needs to conventional to get the ZDDP and phosphorous, or they have a race only version in the black bottle also.But the gray bottle is just fine the part # is VV 205.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I run 30W oils but look at the viscosity at 100 degrees C. I prefer the oils in the upper range of 30W. German Castrol 0W30 is one oil in the upper end of the range. I am now running Amsoil Z-Rod oil, again in the upper range, that also includes levels of ZDDP and phosphorous not allowed in the latest EPA regulations. With an aftermarket valve train, I believe you are asking for trouble with some of the new oils and their limited use of these additives in their formulation.

I would look less at weight and more at the high temperature viscosity and the additive package.
What would you recommend for a mostly street car with an aftermarket valvetrain? Which oils would you recommend to stay away from with an aftermarket valvetrain?
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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What ever oil you use, DO NOT use the so called new car engine oil when a performance cam & high rate valve springs are used.

Read this post for more info; http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-oil-tech.html

Russ Kemp
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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40/60 canola/ olive oil blend
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 1970 LSCamaro
I have a 6.0 lsx that I put a Texas Speed cam and a few other goodies in. I was told yesterday from a fellow LS owner, that I should run the Valvoline ZR 20w-50 race oil. Is this true? Seems kinda heavy to me. Thanks
Bottom line:

LSx engines are absolutely NOTHING special. They are every day, ordinary V8 engines. Any oil that anyone uses in ANY type of mildly modded, medium or heavily modded...or fully built forged stroker engine.....can use ANY type of oil.

The only time you need to use a specific type of oil is when your builder tells you to, or if the engine is built with very specific tolerances and it needs a special type of oil.

My fully forged 427ci stroker used off-the-shelf NON-synthetic cheap *** Castrol GTX 20w50 and Purolator filters. It had 173,000 miles on it when it finally snapped a rod at 150mph.

Oil is bullshit.......synthetic oil is BIG bullshit.

Change it every 3000......thats ALL you can do to protect your engine. There's no super-duper magical oil thats gonna do anything that regular cheap oil won't do. And use an oil filter magnet. You'll be amazed at what it captures.

BTW....my new AES 390ci fully forged engine....its getting valvoline VR1 20w50 from day one. Thats what AES recommends and they haven't had any issues yet......these engines have been running good for like 3 years now for them.

.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by KissMyTushZ28
What would you recommend for a mostly street car with an aftermarket valvetrain? Which oils would you recommend to stay away from with an aftermarket valvetrain?
I spent a lot of time looking into this and settled on Amsoil Z-Rod 10W30 for my car. It is worse for the converters, but I will replace a converter rather than cam and valve train any day of the week. This is especially true in light of some recent posts on this forum where pushrod ends, lifter rollers, etc. have been failing. A lot of guys are running very high valve spring loads that the newer oils won't protect IMO.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:26 AM
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^^^Its funny though.....all the people posting with failures are using synthetic oil and espensive filters.

I know about a dozen guys locally that do what I do...cheap *** oil and 3000 mile changes. These are the people with zero failures and their engines last forever.

The verdict is in.

.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 10:37 AM
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I'm currently using Mobil1 10w30 with a Mobil 1 filter.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by KissMyTushZ28
I'm currently using Mobil1 10w30 with a Mobil 1 filter.
The reason I don't use Mobil-1 is the viscosity at temperature is at the low end of the 30W range, just above the 20W.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:17 AM
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Is amsoil zrod available at oriellys or autozone?
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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im running penzoil synthetic 10w30 and a bosch oil filter.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 12:15 PM
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Valvoline VR1 10w30 here. Oreillys had a sale... 4.49 a quart so I bought everything on the shelf.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
Valvoline VR1 10w30 here. Oreillys had a sale... 4.49 a quart so I bought everything on the shelf.
That isn't synthetic, is it? I've heard some good things about this oil as of late.

Dr. Whigham, when you did you heads/cam install, did you use a "break in oil" and then change the oil right afterwards? If not, what did you do?
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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Actually it's the black bottle and synthetic. They had some silver bottles RIGHT next to it, same stuff. I'm guessing the silver is the new formula with the new EPA regs? IDK. I could be wrong. Either way the silver bottle **** was 9.29 a quart.

I didn't use break in oi for the heads and cam. I used regular Castrol Edge w/ titanium, the gold bottles, but I changed it after 1k miles, and I have ALWAYS used WIX 51522 oil filters. The long truck ones.

As an aside though, with the VR1 I can hear the valvetrain a LOT more now. It was actually quieter with the Edge. That was the whole reason I spit on Mobil 1 now was b/c of the valvetrain noise. When I tried the Edge it was like firing up a new car. Almost silent. I'd kill to see a UOA from our cars with the Edge w/ Titanium. SOMETHING in that oil that's not detergent makes both my H/C/I car, as well as my LQ9 Escalade dead quiet.

I very well may go back to Edge and run a bottle of ZDDPlus with it. I'm not sure what to think with the noise now with the VR1. But blue oil is cool as ****, I don't care what anyone says, LOL
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
Actually it's the black bottle and synthetic. They had some silver bottles RIGHT next to it, same stuff. I'm guessing the silver is the new formula with the new EPA regs? IDK. I could be wrong. Either way the silver bottle **** was 9.29 a quart.

I didn't use break in oi for the heads and cam. I used regular Castrol Edge w/ titanium, the gold bottles, but I changed it after 1k miles, and I have ALWAYS used WIX 51522 oil filters. The long truck ones.

As an aside though, with the VR1 I can hear the valvetrain a LOT more now. It was actually quieter with the Edge. That was the whole reason I spit on Mobil 1 now was b/c of the valvetrain noise. When I tried the Edge it was like firing up a new car. Almost silent. I'd kill to see a UOA from our cars with the Edge w/ Titanium. SOMETHING in that oil that's not detergent makes both my H/C/I car, as well as my LQ9 Escalade dead quiet.

I very well may go back to Edge and run a bottle of ZDDPlus with it. I'm not sure what to think with the noise now with the VR1. But blue oil is cool as ****, I don't care what anyone says, LOL

What weight of Castrol did you use for the break-in period? 10w30 or 5w30? Why did you not use the ZZD Plus with the Castrol; does it already contain it?

I wish they sold the German Castrol here in Jefferson City. I looked, but couldn't find it.
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