If I were to flycut using the sandpaper on the bottom of a valve technique I would use a slightly bigger valve such as for intake more like a 2.02-2.04 valve. My question is can I use any valve regardless what its out of just as long as its a 2.02 of does it have to be a 2.02 specific for our heads such as for a ls engine or could it be a ford valve or?

 

i used a stock valve. when the sandpaper was glued on it ended up being thicker. so it was wider than the valve. that's what worked for me.

 

What sandpaper did you use?

 

40 or 60 grit and let it wrap around the margin of the stock valve, works great

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ee-almost.html

 

You will have to use an ls valve as the stem diameters are different. You don't want it flopping around in the guide.

 

If the MLS gives you more clearance than .065" you have now (and check it when it comes in), then I think you're good to go without flycutting. You're good on the exhaust and just a hair tight on the intake.

 

I have the MLS gasket but I'm not measuring with it because I don't want to compromise it any. I'm not sure about flycutting but just gathering the knowledge needed just in case. I need to make my mind up if I'm flycutting by tomorrow to make it to my tune on the first of April...

So Jake... Eyelashing would only happen if I were to say miss a shift and would most likely not do any damage or would eyelashing happen even under normal driving? Does it hurt anything or cause damage? I know interference is never good but I'm new to this eyelashing the piston stuff.

 

I'm not using a dial indicator I'm using the clay method

 

Clay isn't as accurate from what I recall. Eyelashing happens whenever the valves touch the pistons. Doesn't have to be on an overrev. I bet most cammed guys when they inspect their shortblock see the eyelashing. Even when they had plenty of clearance.

Why? Because clearance is static. What you need to make sure is good is your valvetrain and stable under load at 6k+ RPM. If you float the valve or loft the lifter because of too much cam lift, too much ramp speed, and too little spring pressure, the system will be out of control. Sometimes this appears as valve float on a dyno. Other times it doesn't. It appears as lowering power and failed lifters/bent pushrods/broken rockers. All of that means the valve is hung open too long and contact can occur.

Do you know why I'm going to run mine tighter? Valve control. It starts with EPS endurance lobes ground on a billet Cam Motion core. Morel 5206 lifters ride the lobes and Manton 11/32nd .120" wall pushrods connect the lifter to the stock GM rocker arm. Stiffness and control on the cam side of the valvetrain. On the valve side, I went light weight. The stock rocker is the lightest of all rockers and it rides on upgraded trunions. The entire valvetrain is controlled by PAC 1904 springs with TFS Ti retainers, for low weight. The final piece of the puzzle is lightweight, hollow-stem, turned-down LS3 valves.

 

You really nailed down your valve control. Im running new LS7 lifters with chromoly hardened push rods on stock rockers with the upgraded trunions. Im running the torquer V2 which has pretty aggressive lobes on it...

 

I did a lot of research, talked to a lot of smart people, and invested the money where it made the most sense to achieve the goals I laid out. I guess we'll see what the numbers show, but I wanted a good balance o streetability, power, and reliability out of my setup.

 

Im in the same boat as you, Going for all the same goals as you. Ive spent about $3k more into this just to do it right... a lot of it wasnt necessary or in need of immediate attention but I want it right and do not want to cut any corners or be driving or miss that gear and always have my radar on just expecting it to break or listening to it to see if I broke it. I want to drive it like it has 0 miles on it from factory and dont have anything to worry about and thats the reliability I want. I feel like my valvetrain will be stable as everything is new (seats, retainers, 3 angle valve job, New .650 dual valve springs, push rods, lifters, seals, trunions) only thing thats used is the rockers which like you said is the lightest out there.

On a good note my Monster Stage 2 Clutch showed up this morning! Bad note- I have to crawl under the car and put it in.

 

Modding the car is both awesome and horrifying. If I had a lift, I'd love it a whole lot more.

 

Im with you on that one. A lift would make this a million times easier and save the bruises on the hip bones and shoulder blades. Makes me realize how much I took the lift for granted at the shop I used to wrench at. I should hear it make some noise this week. I think Ive decided that I am going to flycut tonight via the sandpaper method. Looks easy and should have it done in a couple hours and give me the peace of mind that Ive been paying lots of money to have. If I do that tonight there should still be no reason that I cant have it running by Thursday. Might be a little optimistic here though.

 

Make sure you get good 3m sandpaper the cheap stuff takes all damn day

 

Take some pics for me and keep us updated on how the flycutting goes. Im about to do this on my motor but I rented the lindy flycutter tools from a member.

 

im very up in the air about fly cutting now. Martin at Tick said that he wouldnt blink an eye at running my engine with .065 clearance on my intake and says they have run them much much closer than that. I purchased everything this afternoon to do the flycut this evening but still if I dont have to do it then im not going to as it would be pointless work. Ill let everyone know what I decide.

 

I have no expirence yet with running the ptv that close but have read through ls1tech and seen several setups that are tighter the .065.

 

I skipped the flycutting And bolted the heads on. Spoke to Martin from tick on the phone and he is very confident the clearance is good. I measured 3 cylinders betwoeen both banks and they were all coming out the same. AND exhaust were all at least .110