high volume oil pump
09-12-2013, 07:53 PM
#5
With an engine that doesn't have the gross oil flow needs (big bearing clearances, more oil circuit volume) it's a bad idea to run a high volume oil pump. Sucks up hp spinning it, and the oil being recirculated in the pump housing picks up heat.
Standard volume with a high pressure relief spring is what I was taught, and every engine building book I've picked up supports this.
On gen 1 & 2 smallblocks it was the Melling M55-A blueprinted standard volume oil pump w/ GM white pressure spring. We put these into every SBC going into outdrive and stern drive boats that turned 5K RPM and up all day long, zero engine failures running Valvoline VR1 30W oil.
Standard volume with a high pressure relief spring is what I was taught, and every engine building book I've picked up supports this.
On gen 1 & 2 smallblocks it was the Melling M55-A blueprinted standard volume oil pump w/ GM white pressure spring. We put these into every SBC going into outdrive and stern drive boats that turned 5K RPM and up all day long, zero engine failures running Valvoline VR1 30W oil.
09-12-2013, 07:59 PM
#6
And for LS1/LS6 engines I use & recommend Katech blueprinted LS6 oil pump with whatever spring pressure they set. Not cheap but the oil system is not where I pinch pennies.
09-12-2013, 08:03 PM
#7
With an engine that doesn't have the gross oil flow needs (big bearing clearances, more oil circuit volume) it's a bad idea to run a high volume oil pump. Sucks up hp spinning it, and the oil being recirculated in the pump housing picks up heat.
Standard volume with a high pressure relief spring is what I was taught, and every engine building book I've picked up supports this.
On gen 1 & 2 smallblocks it was the Melling M55-A blueprinted standard volume oil pump w/ GM white pressure spring. We put these into every SBC going into outdrive and stern drive boats that turned 5K RPM and up all day long, zero engine failures running Valvoline VR1 30W oil.
Standard volume with a high pressure relief spring is what I was taught, and every engine building book I've picked up supports this.
On gen 1 & 2 smallblocks it was the Melling M55-A blueprinted standard volume oil pump w/ GM white pressure spring. We put these into every SBC going into outdrive and stern drive boats that turned 5K RPM and up all day long, zero engine failures running Valvoline VR1 30W oil.
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09-12-2013, 09:13 PM
#9
That theory applies for the gen I /II stuff but now you are dealing with a different form and function pump. There is no data proving that a LS HV pump cause higher parasitic losses vs a standard volume pump. Again thats applies to the gen I and II stuff.
As KCS stated, generally most hi performances builds are running clearances larger than stock. The extra volume is necessary.
As KCS stated, generally most hi performances builds are running clearances larger than stock. The extra volume is necessary.
09-12-2013, 09:49 PM
#10
I'll definitely not try and argue against the notion that the gerotor may cost less energy to displace the same fluid volume, as this seems intuitive and I'm glad you brought it into the discussion.
As far as the looser bearing clearances creating a requirement for increased pump volume, absolutely the case and I mentioned that in my reply earlier. Not sure why you'd want to deliberately build to looser clearances at the mains/rods, as you give up more efficiency with the necessary inclusion of HV oil pump and thicker oil. Builder's preference I suppose?
09-12-2013, 09:55 PM
#11
I used a ported ls6 pump from tick performance. I noticed about a 10 psi increase idleing hot over the factory one that was on it. No problems outta it as of yet. I have no experience with the others mentioned here. I change mine when I was having issues that turned out to be the oring on the pickup tube.
09-12-2013, 10:21 PM
#12
As you can see it is a debatable topic.
Oil does not only lubricate and provide film protection, its other job is to absorb kenetic energy aka heat.
It just depends upon your clearances but with your longer stroke, I would imagine that they are not going to be stock tight. I would use the 10296 with the red.
I talked about the reason why I would use it in this thread below.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17562790-post97.html
As I stated earlier, when you decide that you need a HV pump, I would use the Melling 10296 with the red spring to take full advantage of the pump. Most builds I am involved with the high volume and pressure helps with what we are trying to accomplish. If you decide that you need a just a standard volume pump, I would use the Melling 10295.
Look at it like this:
10295 with a high pressure spring= delaying the time before the spring activates the relief valve to bypass the pressure and oil volume.
10296 with a (BLUE) low pressure spring= at idle the higher psi is related more to the increase in oil volume vs pressure. But the spring activates the reilef valve earlier in correlation to rpm and you are not taking full advatage of the pump. Just bypassing oil.
10296 with a (RED) high pressure spring= at idle the higher psi is related more to the increase in oil volume vs. pressure. But the spring activates the relief valve at a later rpm to bypass the pressure and oil volume.
Engines I am involved with I use conv 15w-40 Chevron delo with Lucas ZDDP for at least the first 3000 miles.
Oil does not only lubricate and provide film protection, its other job is to absorb kenetic energy aka heat.
It just depends upon your clearances but with your longer stroke, I would imagine that they are not going to be stock tight. I would use the 10296 with the red.
I talked about the reason why I would use it in this thread below.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17562790-post97.html
As I stated earlier, when you decide that you need a HV pump, I would use the Melling 10296 with the red spring to take full advantage of the pump. Most builds I am involved with the high volume and pressure helps with what we are trying to accomplish. If you decide that you need a just a standard volume pump, I would use the Melling 10295.
Look at it like this:
10295 with a high pressure spring= delaying the time before the spring activates the relief valve to bypass the pressure and oil volume.
10296 with a (BLUE) low pressure spring= at idle the higher psi is related more to the increase in oil volume vs pressure. But the spring activates the reilef valve earlier in correlation to rpm and you are not taking full advatage of the pump. Just bypassing oil.
10296 with a (RED) high pressure spring= at idle the higher psi is related more to the increase in oil volume vs. pressure. But the spring activates the relief valve at a later rpm to bypass the pressure and oil volume.
Engines I am involved with I use conv 15w-40 Chevron delo with Lucas ZDDP for at least the first 3000 miles.
