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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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OK. I thought I knew what I wanted to do, but I always over-research before I do anything. Over-analysis is my specialty.
I have a 2000 ws6 TA with a built 4l60e with a 3000 stall currently going through a 10 bolt with 3.23s.PRC 2.5 5.3 heads, TSP 224/228 114 cam, 1 7/8 headers with true duals I'm at 390rwhp. I love this cam BTW, but the block itself seems to have oiling issues (that's a whole other thread).

I want more, but with stipulations: I want 475-500rwhp all motor,but I want it as dependable and comfortable as possible to get there. This car will go to the track maybe once, but I will drive it on the street maybe 5-8k miles a year and put my foot into whenever I want. I want this build to be my last one and be able to give it to my son in 10 years after 50k more miles and know that the engine still has 50k more left. I am willing to sacrifice 10hp for another 10k out of the engine. Basically I want the dependabilty of stock but with more HP. Valve spring changes every 36k is fine though. Is this asking too much?

Originally I was thinking a 408 LQ9 or 418LS3 with ported ls3 heads, stock LS3 intake, NW TB, a mild 235/242 621/615 114+4 LSL/LXL lobes cam. Maybe a little less intake on the cam to compensate for the heads.

But lately I've heard back and forth about longevity of any LS based strokers.

Opinions?
(BTW I know I have to dump the stock 10bolt for 9" or dana)

TIA

Last edited by ronsws6; Feb 18, 2014 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Forgot something
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Get a stock LS7.
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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An LS7 would fit the dependability aspect, but not the power. That would barely be more than what I'm making now. Also the dry sump system retrofit, adds into more time and expense on top of engine price.
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 04:31 PM
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It fits the bill on all the stipulations you listed abound. You asked for 475-500whp and you could make 500whp easy with bolt ons and as a crate motor you can even have a warranty.

As far as retrofitting, all you really have to do is have the dipstick tube boss drilled, which is cake. Swap over the pan, pump, etc from the LS1 and that's it. Sell off the LS7 dry sump components for a profit.
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 06:56 PM
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This must be a common question, or me and you just found ourselves in the same boat.

I would add to the question - if I were to buy a short block LS7, would any of my current aftermarket equipment be compatible and beneficial to move over?

PRC 5.3l stg 2.5 heads
227/231 113+4 pat g cam
Fast 92 intake and TB
Pacesetter 1 3/4 LT headers
TSP ORY
Hooker aero chamber catback
Fast Toys lid
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ford SVO 42# injectors
25% underdrive pulley
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lf9802Fbody
This must be a common question, or me and you just found ourselves in the same boat.

I would add to the question - if I were to buy a short block LS7, would any of my current aftermarket equipment be compatible and beneficial to move over?

PRC 5.3l stg 2.5 heads
227/231 113+4 pat g cam
Fast 92 intake and TB
Pacesetter 1 3/4 LT headers
TSP ORY
Hooker aero chamber catback
Fast Toys lid
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ford SVO 42# injectors
25% underdrive pulley
Except for the balancer, it will all swap over, but since the heads and cam are trying to feed 427ci rather than 346ci, it will peak sooner.

If you use the LS7 dry sump, the balancer won't work, however if you convert to to wet sump, then it would work.
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:11 PM
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"235/242 621/615 114+4 LSL/LXL lobes cam"

I'd go with milder came lobes like a 234*/242*, with .612"/.592" lift and LXL/Xtreme RPM (highlift) cam lobes for better better valve train stability/life with minimal hp loss. For the best valve train life/stability I'd use the Xtreme RPM (high lift) lobes for the intake and exhaust lobes.

Lobes are #13160 for lxl 234*, and #3654 for the Xtreme RPM (high lift) 242*.


Xtreme RPM (high lift) 234* #3706
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
"235/242 621/615 114+4 LSL/LXL lobes cam"

I'd go with milder came lobes like a 234*/242*, with .612"/.592" lift and LXL/Xtreme RPM (highlift) cam lobes for better better valve train stability/life with minimal hp loss. For the best valve train life/stability I'd use the Xtreme RPM (high lift) lobes for the intake and exhaust lobes.

Lobes are #13160 for lxl 234*, and #3654 for the Xtreme RPM (high lift) 242*.


Xtreme RPM (high lift) 234* #3706
With a less aggressive cam, do ya think that an ls3 headed 408 would provide good overall reliability?
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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definitely dont forget to get rid of that nasty ten bolt on top of what these guys said!
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 12:14 AM
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Nice compilation!

IMO, after going through the whole thread I think he'll want a slightly larger cam.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
Nice compilation!

IMO, after going through the whole thread I think he'll want a slightly larger cam.
Nah, I've read through that thread a dozen times and if anything it makes me appreciate smaller cams even more. Bigger cams with aggressive lobes seem to = increased failure rate. So I'll give up a couple HP to reduce risk of breaking a rocker or spring. In fact Pat G spec'd me an even smaller cam using HUC lobes just for this purpose. There are some monster engines out there with small cams. My current bigger concern is if the increase stroke will significantly reduce the life of a street engine.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 10:34 AM
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It's not like they put a 4" stroke crank in a stock engine or anything...
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lf9802Fbody
This must be a common question, or me and you just found ourselves in the same boat.

I would add to the question - if I were to buy a short block LS7, would any of my current aftermarket equipment be compatible and beneficial to move over?

PRC 5.3l stg 2.5 heads
227/231 113+4 pat g cam
Fast 92 intake and TB
Pacesetter 1 3/4 LT headers
TSP ORY
Hooker aero chamber catback
Fast Toys lid
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ford SVO 42# injectors
25% underdrive pulley
Everything would swap - but I'd keep the LS7 heads on there. They are much better out of the box than the PRC 5.3s. And I'd keep the LS7 intake manifold (you have to if you keep the heads). So you could sell the FAST off.

The headers are not ideal for a 427, but the 227/231 would work and you'd be in the 520rwhp range and it would drive much nicer than it does now. The headers and exhaust would become the limiting factor. But they would work.

The lid, pulley, and fuel pump would work. The SVOs are wrong for the LS7 rail and are roughly equivalent to factory LS7 injectors. So you could sell the SVOs too.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ronsws6
Nah, I've read through that thread a dozen times and if anything it makes me appreciate smaller cams even more. Bigger cams with aggressive lobes seem to = increased failure rate. So I'll give up a couple HP to reduce risk of breaking a rocker or spring. In fact Pat G spec'd me an even smaller cam using HUC lobes just for this purpose. There are some monster engines out there with small cams. My current bigger concern is if the increase stroke will significantly reduce the life of a street engine.
I was only make reference to going with larger intake and exhaust duration, not more aggressive lobes.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 08:55 PM
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maybe do a 383 stroker ,using your current block .you will need a different cam.and a fast intake .
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