BOTTLE ROCKET

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone used one of the "massive speed" crank bolts?
They are supposed to have a 197,000 tensile strength and is a 12.9 grade bolt.
I am building a forged engine with boost.

Stock - $4
Massive speed - $26
ARP - $36

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

For not that big of a price difference, i'd get the ARP bolt. You know for a fact that bolt is reuseable. Look around, i've seen them for around $30.

LS1rob00

iTrader: (9)

ARP and be done with it.

"Buy once, cry once"

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

ARP = no brainer...

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

Going with the Alper China stuff for head studs when the price difference is north of $200 makes some sense if you aren't building a +1000whp monster. But for a $10 difference on a part that is spinning around its entire life and could even be left up to spinning a supercharger the ARP is a no brainer.

iliveonnitro

I'm going against the grain on this one. If it's a Grade 12.9 bolt, it's fine to use. This isn't a case where "name brand" is necessarily better than generic.

The only reason to get the ARP over the Massive Speed one is because of the field data on reliability. Honestly, though, I'm not sure it matters in this case.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Wake the phuch up people BUY AMERICAN!! Phuch China and all the rest of the world. Hoooray for the USA!.. Nuff said.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

The Massive Speed bolt looks to have "12.9" on the head HOWEVER, it's a standard 12 point head flange. The ARP bolt has a considerably larger flange load area as well huge 12 point head that you can hang a big wrench on.

About the "made in China" issue, it's commonly known that Chinese made products often DO NOT attain the specifications they claim. I would not be surprised if this bolt was a 9.8 or 10.9 grade. I would also question the thread quality. Chinese production rarely has good Q&A and test to fail procedures.

Stay safe-stay with the ARP.

ChevyOwner

I don't see why a grade 10.9 bolt won't work I have the old GM bolt out of one here, it has 10.9 on the head.

Or am I missing something?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

The GM bolt is TTY. A non TTY bolt needs to be torqued to 235 ft-lbs WITH lube.

cbenn47

iTrader: (2)

I just went ahead and bought ARP for mine, the rest of my bolting is ARP so I just kept it the same.

ChevyOwner

I guess a better way to put it is...
I don't understand why a 10.9 non TTY bolt won't work.
I know that the gm bolt is TTY, and the ARP is not.

Why won't a 10.9 bolt that is not torque to yield work?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

235 Is a pretty steep torque load for this bolt. The GM bolt is designed to stretch just right. The ARP bolt is designed to hold at 235 ft-pounds. A standard class 10.9 bolt may stretch more than required or f fail completely.

Use the correct GM bolt installed to the correct angle OR the ARP bolt torqued to 235 ft-pounds.

This is not an area you'd like to discover a fastener failure.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Its your crank, go ahead

ChevyOwner

I asked because I am too curious. I have a new GM bolt to install my new balancer, but if I needed to get one I'd get the ARP.

Modchevelle

iTrader: (9)

I was going exactly the same route but chose ARP a trusted name. I know the Massive is made in USA we think but is it good?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Ya can't go wrong with the GM bolt. Just:

-Use a balancer installer, not the bolt to get the balancer on the crank;
-Properly install the bolt, torque to 37 ft-pounds then turn another 140 degrees.

K STYLEZ

Sorry to dig up the dead... I used the Massive on mine. Used their XL-LS longer bolt since the threads were all messed up on mine. They are made in the USA and pretty darn stout.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post18095969

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

It shouldn't be $36 for the ARP. I think I paid $25 shipped for mine.

And it calls for 250ft/lbs IIRC.