Just finished installing my fast 92. But now I guess I am realizing that I need to do coolant bypass?

Is this just part of the install that I overlooked in the write ups?

Any tips on what size tubing I should go buy from homedepot. I will so a good search tomorrow for coolant bypass how to.

I gotta give props to the board. Could t have done the install without all the video and help on here. I think I am in the home stretch.

Thanks guys.

 

Yes, you overlooked it I would suggest a 4 corner steam kit from trickflow, which bypasses the TB and pulls steam from all 4 corners instead of 2.

 

You haven't overlooked anything, It's assumed that that you've already done it. What you're going to need is 1 barbed hose end that has male pipe thread on the opposite end , and 1 that has female pipe thread on the opposite end . You'll be putting sealant on the male threads then screwing it into the female threads and tightening it up good with a couple of wrenches. as far as the barbed sizes you need I don't exactly remember the sizes need. S what you need to do is measure the tube diameter on both tubes on the stock throttle body, to get the 2 different sizes you need. I'm fairly sure the small barbed end needs to be 1/4. For the larger barbed fitting end it's either 5/16" or 3/8" . Anyway like I said before, measure the 2 tubes on the factory throttle body to be 110% sure!

Here what the two fittings should look like:

 

Thanks. Do you think I could find a single tube with barbed ends.

I found a BMR kit that is like that but it's 20 for the kit. I am sure there should be something like at homedepot.

Headed there this morning to dig around. Thanks

 

The problem with those kits is that they're overpriced and only one end of the barbed hose coupler is the correct size. So the oversized barbed in the smaller hose is going to cause premature failure of the over stretched hose. Furthermore if you try using a slightly larger hose to fit the larger hose barb better it won't fit tight enough on the smaller coolant x-over outlet tube without over tightening a clap on the hose which will also cause premature hose failure. IMO, if you or a friend are good at welding, or you know of someone that's good at welding small metal tubes together then you can remove the 2 tube from the bottom of the factory TB and have them welded together. FYI, you also can get a one piece 3/8" to 1/4" barbed reducer coupler, if that's the 2 sizes you need that would be perfect.

 

Can't you just run a hose from the radiator to the block. route the hose under the MAF and above and away from all the belts and rotating assembly.

I am assuming the size of the two ends of the hose would have to be different and that is why this is not an option. I will be home soon to look at this and solve the problem.

I just realized that I didn't connect the air tube at the back of the intake so now my heater won't work. I've got to do this with the intake in place now.

 

Here is what I did with my heads this time around. Here's a link... I don't feel like reposting.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...line-help.html

 

Support a local fab/machine shop.

Was in the same situation. Made this yesterday.

 

Did you measure the tubes on the factory TB, what are the tube sizes ?

You can connect the vacuum hard line to the passenger-side vacuum port without removing the intake manifold since the port is actually easier to access do to it being further towards the passenger side.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...psbbfdd619.jpg
I would highly recommend doing this with the engine cold. Once you physically find the vacuum hard line you'll want to try and get it over further over on the passenger side(re-routing it helps) then install a 90* rubber vacuum port elbow(spraying some glass cleaner on/in rubber inlets will make the install a lot easier) onto the hard line , then push it onto the port on the side of the FAST 92 manifold. BTW, You should be able to find the small rubber vacuum elbows in any auto parts store.

 

Captain Slow, what size did you have the 2 ends made?
BTW, it looks to nice to hide it!

 

Thanks I just measured the OD of a 1/4" and 5/16" hose barb. I want to say .290 and .335" with a 5/32" ID.

Took me like 5 minutes to make.

 

HEy!


I just came across a brass 1/4" to 5/16" barbed hose adapter at JEGs.
The part is #555-15945, price is $10 ..

 

These brass nipples are like 3 bucks at lowes or homes depot guys... Just get a 1/4" x 1/4" and you're good to go. That's it

 

Well said...no need to by a "name brand" kit just for a damn fitting and a sticker.

 

No it's not well said. Not when it isn't the right/correct way to do it. dr_whigham, Please don't recommend a questionable fix, when you know it's not how it should be done.

 

Nice!!

 

Are you out of your mind!!?? What is wrong with putting a double sided nipple in line?

Don't recommend "questionable fix"... Ok. You're right. Spend the extra money...

 

I went to home depot and bought some brass fittings, couplers, and nipples. I think it will work fine. I'll let you know if there is an issue.

I think there are many options out there, they all will probably work just fine. Some options will cost 6 dollars others much more.

 

Nothings wrong with putting a double sided nipple in line, IF you have the correct size nipples/barbs on both ends, but what you suggest doesn't. BTW, is there something wrong with spending a few extra dollars(+$7) to do something the right/correct way.. ?

The burden of the frugal psyche!

 

Correct size on both ends? USUALLY, when people do this mod they replace the entire hose, all foot and a half of it, with new 1/4" hose.

Look at the age of these cars now... Why in the world would anyone want to reuse old hose, just so they can make sure both ends are right?

1/4" hose, 1/4" x 1/4" nipple, and 4 tiny hose clamps.

Case closed