Tick vs tsp vs futral
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok I have a m6 Z28, 3:42 gears, stock ls1 short block rebuilt, arp rod bolts, 799 heads, will probably put the tooley springs in, ls7 lifters, comp push rods, ls6 intake, 1-3/4 LT pacesetters...looking at the SNS stage 3 from tick, the ms4 from tsp and il not sure what one from futral. What do you guys think? Track use will be minimal. But love ripping on the street. If you have something similar, post dyno sheets if you can, or give me a number..
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
#2
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok I have a m6 Z28, 3:42 gears, stock ls1 short block rebuilt, arp rod bolts, 799 heads, will probably put the tooley springs in, ls7 lifters, comp push rods, ls6 intake, 1-3/4 LT pacesetters...looking at the SNS stage 3 from tick, the ms4 from tsp and il not sure what one from futral. What do you guys think? Track use will be minimal. But love ripping on the street. If you have something similar, post dyno sheets if you can, or give me a number..
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
#3
10 Second Club
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would call up each place, tell them what your intentions are with your car and they'll suggest you something. From customer service and the extensive knowledge he had I'd call Martin at Tick. Thats what I did. He is a very smart guy and extremely friendly and helpful. Thats my .02.
#5
TECH Enthusiast
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think your cam selection is really big for the parts you just listed. Are you building a race car or a dyno queen? If I had to use those very same parts I would port those 799 heads myself, run a mild lobe lxl lobed comp cam or a HUC lobed comp cam with an XE lobed exhaust. My cam choice for those parts on the street would be a 222 230 on a 111lsa installed at a 111 intake centerline. Cams like these somehow manage to run low 11s in full weight cars and are fast on the street. With the cam I listed you could run beehive springs and use all your stock hardware from the 799 heads, which is really strong and will last on the street. I would opt for a 1 7/8" header if your budget allows some good value headers that stand out are speed engineering and texas speed.
i agree with this. a similar cam slightly bigger is street sweeper ht-228/232
#7
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And I see that happen all the time with people that I help build their combos up all the time. A higher dynoing car will get out ran by a combo that accelerates quicker and comes on quicker.
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Imo, the Tick SNS Stage 2 cam (226/234 110lsa+3, w/milder lxl lobes) would be a better choice, and more enjoyable on the street(stop-light-to-stop light). With the Tick SNS Stage 3 cam You're going to want 4.11 gear with it, and the low-end power won't be as good as the SNS Stage 2.
Not a fan of the TSP shelf grind selection, since they use mostly Comp Cam XE-R lobes which are very aggressive.
Futral , F6(226/230) with a 112lsa would be another good option.
For a custom cam either EPS or Cam Motion is who I'd go with.
Not a fan of the TSP shelf grind selection, since they use mostly Comp Cam XE-R lobes which are very aggressive.
Futral , F6(226/230) with a 112lsa would be another good option.
For a custom cam either EPS or Cam Motion is who I'd go with.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 08-13-2014 at 09:03 PM.