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High Compression, Big Cam, Pump Gas, Budget LQ4/9

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Old 12-16-2014 | 12:51 PM
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Default High Compression, Big Cam, Pump Gas, Budget LQ4/9

I'm sure this has been covered to varying degrees in other threads. However I haven't found exactly what I'm looking for so I decided to start a new thread and just ask my questions.

Goals- Build a LQ4/9 on a budget ($ not decided on yet) using as many oem type parts as possible. Shooting for 550+ whp through A6 in my G8 as a DD on Pump Gas. This is as much a learning experience for me as anything else. This will be my first engine build. As cheap insurance, I'll be using ARP hardware unless someone convinces me otherwise.

Shortblock questions.
What really needs to be upgraded internally on the bottom end?

I've read that pistons are a weak point and seeing as I want to raise the compression to something like 11.8 to 12.0 for 93 pump gas, I'll be replacing them anyways. (Side note: I don't plan on utilizing n2o at all) Are there any stronger OEM (read :cheaper) pistons I should consider using? Would I be able to safely fly cut them for proper valve clearance?

What aftermarket brand pistons should I steer away from?

Are the rods a weak point? Similarly, are there OEM replacement options? Entry level aftermarket rods worth looking at?

I know that the cranks are supposed to be good for far more power than I'm looking for so I'll be utilizing a stock unit. However, are there any issues that are common with them I should be looking for?

How necessary is a high volume oil pump?

Top - End
Should I bother with the 317s or just go right to some 243/799 castings? I plan on DIY porting whichever one I use. Can either be decked for a bump in compression, if so, how much?

Will I need to spring for larger valves for my hp goals? If so, what's my budget friendly option?

What are my other necessary budget valve train upgrades?

I know I'm going to have a million more questions but we'll stop here for now.
Old 12-16-2014 | 08:39 PM
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You have mentioned the word budget enough times to mandate a turbo charger. Your power goals will be nowhere near cheap if insistant on NA.
Looks like you just joined so welcome to the best LS forum there is.
Spend the next six months saving money while researching threads and reading the stickies......all the answers are here but no one person will chime in to give ya all twenty answers. Did I mention read the stickies??
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Old 12-17-2014 | 09:35 AM
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You need to line out your budget FIRST. Then plan out what you can do with the money you have available .

550+ hp N/A is going to be tough with a non stroker engine, Can it be done?.. yes.. is it real budget friendly?? no

I have 7k Into a LS1 stroker and I am still not done spending money, it runs but its no where near its full potential yet
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Old 12-17-2014 | 01:59 PM
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high strung motor to hit 550whp on pump gas AND daily driven with budget doesn't add up. Pick 2: fast , cheap, reliable.

What is your commute (distance and conditions)?

Why are you pulling an aluminum 6.0 V8 for an older iron 6.0 v8? Without major power adder the aluminum is far superior.
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Old 12-17-2014 | 02:34 PM
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why not just turbo or supercharge the current motor ? prolly look around and find a used kit if you are lucky. you will be needing a bigger pump and injectors anyways.
Old 12-17-2014 | 02:44 PM
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Aftermarket heads will be a must
Old 12-17-2014 | 04:53 PM
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I'm shooting for 4k to 5k bucks. That's not set in stone but I don't plan on putting 10k in an engine either.

I was kind of thinking that I was going to have to increase displacement to hit my goals. So of the companies out there that make rods and pistons, what's the lowest you would go with? Or am I pretty safe with any of the aftermarket brands at these power levels NA?

My commute is about a 30 mile round trip, 25 of that is hwy.

As for FI, my second build I'd like to use a TVS2300 or something like it. However this is my first engine build and as such I don't want to break the bank on my learning curve project. As well, this is just as much about the process of building my first engine as it is about the end product. Not to mention I'm going to have some additional expenditures for the proper tools along the way. I decided to go iron block because they're cheaper and more durable should I decide to pull this, swap the pistons and heads and throw boost at it later. On top of that, my G8 is my DD so I can't have the engine out until I have a replacement ready for transplant. Plus this leaves me with the L76 for other projects down the road.

So, my rough, incomplete list:

Hot tanking, Cam bearings install, boring .030..... ~$300
Forged Pistons and Rods .....~$1200
ARP hardware.....~?
Cam.....~$400

Thanks for the welcome and the replys.

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Old 12-17-2014 | 06:38 PM
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You can probably drop the price of pistons and rods. Scat I beams are overkill for a lot of street builds and they're only about $300. Mahle pistons with rings are only about $650.
Old 12-17-2014 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowG8

Goals- Build a LQ4/9 on a budget ($ not decided on yet) using as many oem type parts as possible. Shooting for 550+ whp through A6 in my G8 as a DD on Pump Gas. This is as much a learning experience for me as anything else. This will be my first engine build. As cheap insurance, I'll be using ARP hardware unless someone convinces me otherwise.
over 400 cubes this shouldnt be much of a problem. under and it is.

Originally Posted by SlowG8
I'm shooting for 4k to 5k bucks. That's not set in stone but I don't plan on putting 10k in an engine either.
4-5k will get you a well running heads/cam setup. Pay to play. It's not fun.

wanting 500+ requires use of an aftermarket intake, so add a grand basically.
injectors=500, rails, throttle body, ect ect. you can see how quickly something simple turns into 3 times what you expect.

It gets out of hand fast. What you are shooting for is definitely in the 10k + range. Thats just what it costs.
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Old 12-18-2014 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dckmn52

It gets out of hand fast. What you are shooting for is definitely in the 10k + range. Thats just what it costs.
Truth
Old 12-18-2014 | 10:02 AM
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I agree that you're going to need some pretty decent heads to hit that goal. I just don't see hand ported 317's or 243's doing it, especially if you're porting them yourself (unless you're a master head porter"). In regards to compression, you should be fine at 12:1 on pump 93 as long as your fueling system is on par and the tune is spot on.
Old 12-18-2014 | 01:26 PM
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You can get over 500whp with a well ported 243/799 head. Hell, several people have made over 500whp with a stock 243 head.

As a DD, I think you'll want to have the cubic inches of a 408 or 416 so that you don't have to turn as much RPM to get there. If you're already considering forged rods and pistons, the cost of a 4" crank is certainly worth it for the hp/dollar.
Old 12-18-2014 | 07:45 PM
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Did 509 hp with my 370. Not exactly a budget build.

I went Weisco piston and K1 rods with a factory crank. TSP LS6 2.5 heads milled .030. Cam specd by Pat G on EPS lobes.

You're gonna need a really good set of heads to get 550 or a stroker. Whats gonna add up is all the supporting mods also, nice set of headers with good collectors, Ported Fast 102 & ATI Damper.



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