lq4 bored .050 rebuilt?
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
so i got an LQ4 out of an 06 sierra 2500 for doing a turbo build for my trans am, wanted a newer block for the better rods and piston design, when i picked it up it was all priemer gray and i found out it was a jasper rebuild engine, which didnt bother me but when a friend and i where disassembling it and cleaning it the pistons have "050" stamped on them, im assuming this means its bored .050 over, which is cool but some one brought ul wall thickness being an issue, so my concerns where
how weak is it now its bored .050?
what kinda of pistons would jasper use?
is this block equal to an oem lq4 for strength?
how weak is it now its bored .050?
what kinda of pistons would jasper use?
is this block equal to an oem lq4 for strength?
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
.050" isn't a common bore size. Try to measure the bore to see what it is. A cheapo digital caliper from the auto parts store would do the job.
If it is really .050" over, I would take it to someone with a UT Wall Thickness gauge and see how much meat is left and if it's enough for the power you have in mind. I'd say it would be okay for moderate power levels, but I probably wouldn't try for 1000whp with it.
If it is really .050" over, I would take it to someone with a UT Wall Thickness gauge and see how much meat is left and if it's enough for the power you have in mind. I'd say it would be okay for moderate power levels, but I probably wouldn't try for 1000whp with it.
#6
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Another very noticeable detail for an experienced engine guy like yourself is the remaining GM bore chamfer. Removing only .010" material (.020" overbore) will still leave enough of a chamfer to not crash the rings whereas .015" or .020" (30 or 40 over) most always requires an extra machining step or at least the sanding cone on a drill fixer. This is why .020" is such a popular choice for Jasper and Cloverland rebuilds. In fact I'd be willing to bet that they power hone that size in order to skip boring. Saving money is what they are all about....
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)