I'm installing my heads/cam in 2 hours...any last recommendations?
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Any tips or tricks that I should know of? Threadlocker on a certain bolt? Watch out for this or you might lose any eye?
TIA
TIA
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I just finished putting mine back together a couple of days ago.
I put blue locktite on the cam gear bolts.
I learned on here today that I should have put sealer on the rocker arm bolts. (the ones over the intake passages anyway). Because the head porting exposes the bottom of those bolt holes. The manual doesn't say anything about this, but that's because they are closed off on the stock unported heads. So I'll be pulling those rockers bolts out this weekend and putting sealer on them.
I put blue locktite on the cam gear bolts.
I learned on here today that I should have put sealer on the rocker arm bolts. (the ones over the intake passages anyway). Because the head porting exposes the bottom of those bolt holes. The manual doesn't say anything about this, but that's because they are closed off on the stock unported heads. So I'll be pulling those rockers bolts out this weekend and putting sealer on them.
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Originally Posted by John_D.
I learned on here today that I should have put sealer on the rocker arm bolts. (the ones over the intake passages anyway).
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I haven't decided yet. I've seen references on here to black rtv. I have some tacky thread sealer, and I have some teflon paste. I used the tacky thread sealer around the external bolts for the main caps. I've used the teflon paste to seal fittings for my nitrous system. I think I'm going to use the teflon paste for the rocker bolts too.
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try really hard not to break off the oil pressure sender, have fun getting the head bolts out, clean those bolt holes really well, take your time, mark everything, take pictures if at all possible for your own use if needed later, double & triple check dot to dot...and most of all have fun ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
lata
Bill
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Bill
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Thanks guys. The teardown is going well. I'm using the ls1howto.com heads/cam swap guide, and it is pretty good.
This morning I will pull the intake (bolts are out already), valve covers, rockers.
Do I really need to disconnect the Y-pipe to pull the heads or can I just loosen the manifolds?
Then the timing chain cover, chain, cam, oil pump.
Then the install starts...
Question about the fuel line disconnect tool: how do I use it? I'm trying to get the 3/8" end inside the horizontal line (chrome end) over the driver's side head...doesn't seem to want to come out. I spent a while on that last night.
I want to try to just lay the intake out of the way without disconnecting the lines if possible...I just can't seem to desconnect that bad boy...
This morning I will pull the intake (bolts are out already), valve covers, rockers.
Do I really need to disconnect the Y-pipe to pull the heads or can I just loosen the manifolds?
Then the timing chain cover, chain, cam, oil pump.
Then the install starts...
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Question about the fuel line disconnect tool: how do I use it? I'm trying to get the 3/8" end inside the horizontal line (chrome end) over the driver's side head...doesn't seem to want to come out. I spent a while on that last night.
I want to try to just lay the intake out of the way without disconnecting the lines if possible...I just can't seem to desconnect that bad boy...
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manifolds??? lol i would definitly recommend trying not to unbolt the ypipe otherwise you may have serious issues with bolts breaking off...as far as the dissconnect tool goes the male end goes into the female fitting...you slip it over the line(very little room) and push it into the female portion and just separate the two gently...there will be a small amount of fuel that comes outso have a couple of rags handy...stuff seems so easy on paper, have fun with those head bolts
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getting the crank pulley off sucked...turns out the bolt is short (everyone knows this), so after a couple hours we put a big washer over the bolt hole so we could get the pulley off - worked like a charm, came off in a minute.
Now the big problem - how do I get the double roller timing chain on???
Now the big problem - how do I get the double roller timing chain on???
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use a helm manual for torque wrench settings and jmx web/ls1 how to web sites. I used loctite on everything. Car started right up after cam, oil pump, valve spring, timing chain install - no probs. The key is: organization, tools make all the difference, and research
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Well, the double roller chain seems to be causing problems with the oil pickup tube...due to the extra 3mm spacing required...
I'm using the red auto loctite on all of the bolts...I'm hoping to get it together today, but this pump is being a jerk!
I'm using the red auto loctite on all of the bolts...I'm hoping to get it together today, but this pump is being a jerk!
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okay, got the oil pump on...and the heads are almost finished.
I broke the timing chain cover trying to get the crank seal out !!! arggh...and every dealer is closed for the long weekend...doh!
I broke the timing chain cover trying to get the crank seal out !!! arggh...and every dealer is closed for the long weekend...doh!
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Originally Posted by soslo
okay, got the oil pump on...and the heads are almost finished.
I broke the timing chain cover trying to get the crank seal out !!! arggh...and every dealer is closed for the long weekend...doh!
I broke the timing chain cover trying to get the crank seal out !!! arggh...and every dealer is closed for the long weekend...doh!
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Install is done, Here is the writeup:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/177390-heads-tsp-225-cam-install-tips-inside.html#post1412446
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/177390-heads-tsp-225-cam-install-tips-inside.html#post1412446