need guidance dome vs dish/
Most if not all aftermarket pistons have pretty decent valve pockets so you shouldn't run into PTV issues. And other than that as long as you have your quench setup correctly you shouldn't run into issues with the piston dome. Just make sure you get the appropriate valve pocket for them given the heads and/or valve size. I know several manufacturers make different reliefs if running small valved cathedral heads vs. big valved rectangular/square port heads.
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
From my own personal spray combos, the only one's to take it and live, time and time again were 9,10, and 11 to one engines. Literally every single 12,13, or 14 to one engine I've ever built or helped friends tune has put down killer numbers with minimal life span at best. Constant head gasket or ring land issues...different gas types, different cam designs, thicker head gaskets, different pill sizes and fuel pressures, all the bullshit you can think of to no avail.
Buy all your rebuild parts from Texas Speed and the fact that they did your engine 5 years ago is why you still have an engine to freshen. They're damn good over there...but if it were me, I'd keep the compression right where it's at and work on cam, juice, and chassis/converter combos to get more from the car.
From my own personal spray combos, the only one's to take it and live, time and time again were 9,10, and 11 to one engines. Literally every single 12,13, or 14 to one engine I've ever built or helped friends tune has put down killer numbers with minimal life span at best. Constant head gasket or ring land issues...different gas types, different cam designs, thicker head gaskets, different pill sizes and fuel pressures, all the bullshit you can think of to no avail.
Buy all your rebuild parts from Texas Speed and the fact that they did your engine 5 years ago is why you still have an engine to freshen. They're damn good over there...but if it were me, I'd keep the compression right where it's at and work on cam, juice, and chassis/converter combos to get more from the car.
the 2 molecules of nitrogen are present to act as a buffer since pure oxygen would explode like a bomb.
The simplest way I can explain what it does is....It elevates the cylinder pressure to the point of breaking ****. Wanna know what your weak link is: spray it.
A few years ago we built a 9:1 555 BBC with Dart Pro 1 heads and a 270 solid roller cam. Now NA this thing would have needed at least 12.5 compression but the way we did it was to have it pump 100 psi of cranking compression. Similar to an old worn out tired *** wagon engine...LOL
In a 3600 pound 79 Malibu with a 1.69 glide and an ultra tight 11 inch converter with 3.50 gears it ran 11 ohs @ 124 on *****. Disgustingly lazy right ???
On a .093" jet plate with a 1000 cfm square flange (no dominator) it ran 9.2 @ 148 and did so for hundreds of bottles.....never even clipped a plug..
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