codemanrose

First time posting to the forums here. I have always been kreeping over them for many many years. This is the first time I have not been able to find the info on a particular problem I am having rebuilding my first LS (LR4 4.8). Hopefully someone will chime in!

I just finished up the heads for the 4.8 I am working on. Got the TTY bolts and ran through the torque sequence. However, the final passes is where I am getting a bit nervous.
I did the first pass at 22 ft lbs in correct order, followed by the first 90 degree pass in the same order. The last pass/passes calls for the bolts, except for the shorted M11 bolts, to be torqued to another 90 degrees. There is no way in hell I can do that unless I want to break every head bolt in the block. I literally can't go further than a couple degrees on the last pass in fear of breaking something. Has anyone has problems with this?? I don't want to attempt (tough time with breaker bar the way it is) and break the bolts. I don't think I could physically go another 10 degrees.

JC316

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have crap down in the thread holes and you need to clean them out. I just did this on a 6.0L and I had zero issues with a big torque wrench.

codemanrose

I think you are right. I chased the threads but must have cramp packed down further. What else should I go to clean threads?? Air, solvent, etc?

Regardless have to get new bolts and gaskets for one side. live and learn.

JC316

iTrader: (1)

I would spray some carb cleaner down in the hole and then use compressed air to blow it out. What size ratchet are you using? I can't imagine trying to torque them with a regular 1/2 drive ratchet. My torque wrench is roughly 2 feet long.

parrisw

Like he said, how long a ratchet.

This really helps.

aireegory

I just did this on a 6.0L and I had zero issues with a big torque wrench.

codemanrose

It's about a 18" wrench. I knew I had to redo the install, so I tried torquing the second bolt just to see if it was easier. It was. could actually get it to another 90, barely. So I assume there is still crap packed at the bottom.

I will spray some carb cleaner in the holes and blowing them out. Then will dry and chase again. I guess this is the first issue I have had since rebuilding the engine so I can't complain. Thanks guys!

the404man

I did four 90s on the long TTY fel-pro's just to see what would happen, after the 3rd they wouldn't torque anymore, just got loose, didn't break though.. then i loosened and tried re-torquing but would only hold one 90, then on bank 2 with oil under the heads, on the first 90 with the longs, they torqued to like 45-50ft lbs i think and 2nt 90 i got 70-75ft lbs i think, some wouldn't even click at 70ft lbs on the 2nt 90, and the short ends on the first 90s they clicked at 75ft lbs, i think ha well here have a look for yourself ha don't do as i do, im experimenting here..

parrisw

You really need more the. Just carb cleaner. The manual actually states to use a clean out tap, to get the old thread sealed off, whatever is on the bolts. I used a real stiff wire brush which is meant for pipe cleaning. Or use an old head bolt, with a groove cut in the threads. Blow out with air after.

codemanrose

Yup, that's what I have. It has three deep groves in it and I ran it down about 4-5 times in each. Pulled crud out until it would not pull anything else out. So I assume it's just packed at the bottom where the thread chaser could not grab it.

So next plan is to unbolt head, spray cleaner in them, let sit a second, blow in compressed air, repeat again 1-2 more times, dry bolt holes, chase threads to clean. Not sure what else I can do past that. Need to go grab a new set of bolts and head gasket first. Will order and will give me time to prep block a lot better.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Don't keep cranking on bolts. You can hydraulically crack the block.

What I ended up doing was cutting thin strips of paper towel and rusting them into a long joint. Then, slide it into the bolt homes and let it sit for a minute. Pull it out, cut off the wet/dirty end and repeat until I run out of joint and roll another and go back to it or it comes up clean.

Takes forever, but I got stuff out this way that even the compressed air left in.

Also, get the ARP bolts. Torque and go, not TTY

codemanrose

Thanks! I will take a few hours today and tomorrow getting it spotless. The surface area on both the heads and block already look like a mirror. Just need better cleaning of threads it seams. Will attempt again with bolts on Wednesday or Friday.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

That procedure doesn't sound right. I don't know the "correct" numbers, but looking here at post #4, the headbolts are 22# then 76° except the outers which are 34°.

You really need to toss those overstretched bolts, might as well step up to ARP's that are torqued with ft-lbs only and are reusable...

JC316

iTrader: (1)

Those numbers are for the second design of head bolt. The OP is using the correct torque numbers.

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1

codemanrose

Success! I sprayed the holes with cleaner, blew them out, chased 3-4 times then alternated between blowing compressed air in and chasing. Did this for about an hour on just one side. Grabbed the new bolts and this time just dabbed the smallest bit of oil on the head flanges. Torqued perfect. Will do the same exact thing on other side.

Thanks everyone for the info and help!! Engine is slowly coming together.