TTY Bolts on 4.8 - Too tight??
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: MN
TTY Bolts on 4.8 - Too tight?? First time posting to the forums here. I have always been kreeping over them for many many years. This is the first time I have not been able to find the info on a particular problem I am having rebuilding my first LS (LR4 4.8). Hopefully someone will chime in!
I just finished up the heads for the 4.8 I am working on. Got the TTY bolts and ran through the torque sequence. However, the final passes is where I am getting a bit nervous.
I did the first pass at 22 ft lbs in correct order, followed by the first 90 degree pass in the same order. The last pass/passes calls for the bolts, except for the shorted M11 bolts, to be torqued to another 90 degrees. There is no way in hell I can do that unless I want to break every head bolt in the block. I literally can't go further than a couple degrees on the last pass in fear of breaking something. Has anyone has problems with this?? I don't want to attempt (tough time with breaker bar the way it is) and break the bolts. I don't think I could physically go another 10 degrees.
I just finished up the heads for the 4.8 I am working on. Got the TTY bolts and ran through the torque sequence. However, the final passes is where I am getting a bit nervous.
I did the first pass at 22 ft lbs in correct order, followed by the first 90 degree pass in the same order. The last pass/passes calls for the bolts, except for the shorted M11 bolts, to be torqued to another 90 degrees. There is no way in hell I can do that unless I want to break every head bolt in the block. I literally can't go further than a couple degrees on the last pass in fear of breaking something. Has anyone has problems with this?? I don't want to attempt (tough time with breaker bar the way it is) and break the bolts. I don't think I could physically go another 10 degrees.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: MN
I think you are right. I chased the threads but must have cramp packed down further. What else should I go to clean threads?? Air, solvent, etc?
Regardless have to get new bolts and gaskets for one side. live and learn.
Regardless have to get new bolts and gaskets for one side. live and learn.
I would spray some carb cleaner down in the hole and then use compressed air to blow it out. What size ratchet are you using? I can't imagine trying to torque them with a regular 1/2 drive ratchet. My torque wrench is roughly 2 feet long.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: MN
It's about a 18" wrench. I knew I had to redo the install, so I tried torquing the second bolt just to see if it was easier. It was. could actually get it to another 90, barely. So I assume there is still crap packed at the bottom.
I will spray some carb cleaner in the holes and blowing them out. Then will dry and chase again. I guess this is the first issue I have had since rebuilding the engine so I can't complain. Thanks guys!
I will spray some carb cleaner in the holes and blowing them out. Then will dry and chase again. I guess this is the first issue I have had since rebuilding the engine so I can't complain. Thanks guys!
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On The Tree
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I did four 90s on the long TTY fel-pro's just to see what would happen, after the 3rd they wouldn't torque anymore, just got loose, didn't break though.. then i loosened and tried re-torquing but would only hold one 90, then on bank 2 with oil under the heads, on the first 90 with the longs, they torqued to like 45-50ft lbs i think and 2nt 90 i got 70-75ft lbs i think, some wouldn't even click at 70ft lbs on the 2nt 90, and the short ends on the first 90s they clicked at 75ft lbs, i think ha well here have a look for yourself 
ha don't do as i do, im experimenting here..
ha don't do as i do, im experimenting here..Last edited by the404man; Jan 11, 2016 at 08:29 AM.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2015
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It's about a 18" wrench. I knew I had to redo the install, so I tried torquing the second bolt just to see if it was easier. It was. could actually get it to another 90, barely. So I assume there is still crap packed at the bottom.
I will spray some carb cleaner in the holes and blowing them out. Then will dry and chase again. I guess this is the first issue I have had since rebuilding the engine so I can't complain. Thanks guys!
I will spray some carb cleaner in the holes and blowing them out. Then will dry and chase again. I guess this is the first issue I have had since rebuilding the engine so I can't complain. Thanks guys!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: MN
You really need more the. Just carb cleaner. The manual actually states to use a clean out tap, to get the old thread sealed off, whatever is on the bolts. I used a real stiff wire brush which is meant for pipe cleaning. Or use an old head bolt, with a groove cut in the threads. Blow out with air after.
So next plan is to unbolt head, spray cleaner in them, let sit a second, blow in compressed air, repeat again 1-2 more times, dry bolt holes, chase threads to clean. Not sure what else I can do past that. Need to go grab a new set of bolts and head gasket first. Will order and will give me time to prep block a lot better.
Don't keep cranking on bolts. You can hydraulically crack the block.
What I ended up doing was cutting thin strips of paper towel and rusting them into a long joint. Then, slide it into the bolt homes and let it sit for a minute. Pull it out, cut off the wet/dirty end and repeat until I run out of joint and roll another and go back to it or it comes up clean.
Takes forever, but I got stuff out this way that even the compressed air left in.
Also, get the ARP bolts. Torque and go, not TTY
What I ended up doing was cutting thin strips of paper towel and rusting them into a long joint. Then, slide it into the bolt homes and let it sit for a minute. Pull it out, cut off the wet/dirty end and repeat until I run out of joint and roll another and go back to it or it comes up clean.
Takes forever, but I got stuff out this way that even the compressed air left in.
Also, get the ARP bolts. Torque and go, not TTY
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: MN
Thanks! I will take a few hours today and tomorrow getting it spotless. The surface area on both the heads and block already look like a mirror. Just need better cleaning of threads it seams. Will attempt again with bolts on Wednesday or Friday.
First time posting to the forums here. I have always been kreeping over them for many many years. This is the first time I have not been able to find the info on a particular problem I am having rebuilding my first LS (LR4 4.8). Hopefully someone will chime in!
I just finished up the heads for the 4.8 I am working on. Got the TTY bolts and ran through the torque sequence. However, the final passes is where I am getting a bit nervous.
I did the first pass at 22 ft lbs in correct order, followed by the first 90 degree pass in the same order. The last pass/passes calls for the bolts, except for the shorted M11 bolts, to be torqued to another 90 degrees. There is no way in hell I can do that unless I want to break every head bolt in the block. I literally can't go further than a couple degrees on the last pass in fear of breaking something. Has anyone has problems with this?? I don't want to attempt (tough time with breaker bar the way it is) and break the bolts. I don't think I could physically go another 10 degrees.
I just finished up the heads for the 4.8 I am working on. Got the TTY bolts and ran through the torque sequence. However, the final passes is where I am getting a bit nervous.
I did the first pass at 22 ft lbs in correct order, followed by the first 90 degree pass in the same order. The last pass/passes calls for the bolts, except for the shorted M11 bolts, to be torqued to another 90 degrees. There is no way in hell I can do that unless I want to break every head bolt in the block. I literally can't go further than a couple degrees on the last pass in fear of breaking something. Has anyone has problems with this?? I don't want to attempt (tough time with breaker bar the way it is) and break the bolts. I don't think I could physically go another 10 degrees.
...Heads: M11 bolts first pass 22 ft lb in sequence Second pass 76 degrees in sequence bolt # 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 with same J36660 torque angle meter gauge.
(BOLTS 9 & 10 @ 34 DEGREES FINAL PASS) with J36660...
(BOLTS 9 & 10 @ 34 DEGREES FINAL PASS) with J36660...
That procedure doesn't sound right. I don't know the "correct" numbers, but looking here at post #4, the headbolts are 22# then 76° except the outers which are 34°.
You really need to toss those overstretched bolts, might as well step up to ARP's that are torqued with ft-lbs only and are reusable...
You really need to toss those overstretched bolts, might as well step up to ARP's that are torqued with ft-lbs only and are reusable...
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: MN
Success! I sprayed the holes with cleaner, blew them out, chased 3-4 times then alternated between blowing compressed air in and chasing. Did this for about an hour on just one side. Grabbed the new bolts and this time just dabbed the smallest bit of oil on the head flanges. Torqued perfect. Will do the same exact thing on other side.
Thanks everyone for the info and help!! Engine is slowly coming together.
Thanks everyone for the info and help!! Engine is slowly coming together.