Trans Am WS6 420

iTrader: (14)

I'm working with my son, and this will be our first complete motor build. We would like to use the 5.3 iron block we already have, and turn it into a 383 with an 88mm providing the air. Our goal is 1000rwhp in his fox body, and go run Drag Week or something similar

From what I've read, there are several 5.3 based motors making that kind of power. I'd like to start pricing machine shop work, but I'm not quite knowledgeable enough to know what services to ask for. I'm hoping the board can help us put together a list we can use for comparing prices.

Thanks!

- Matt

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

No need for a 383 for that power level. Heck guys have exceeded that with stock blocks. But for reliability punch it out .020 use Wiseco boost pistons, some forged rods, stock crank and have fun!

Machine shop should clean up the block, balance everything, line hone mains, replace cam bearings, polish crank, and check rod/main bearing clearances for you.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Boring out to 3.9x" might be a little much for a boost application to 1000whp. You may be better off just taking it .030" over or so to keep the cylinder walls thick.

You are probably planning on ARP studs so you may need the following machine work:
Line Hone
Bore Cylinders
Torque Plate Hone Cylinders
Cut Deck Surface
Pin Fit Rods and Pistons

Since we're talking 1000whp engines here, I wouldn't trust bearing clearances to plastigauge. Have the machine shop set the main, thrust, and rod bearing clearances and you probably want them to file fit the rings as well.

I added pin fitting to the list as well since its often overlooked. I would have them bump the hone through the rods and pistons to get at least .001" clearance with the pins. They're usually about .0006-.0009" out of the box depending on the brands you use.

Trans Am WS6 420

iTrader: (14)

My thought was to half fill the block to prevent distortion. I know filled blocks on the street have their naysayers, but I know of too many that drive hundreds of miles at a time with zero cooling issues to believe it can't be done.

If we went this route, do you think the 383 is possible? Or would it still be advisable to stay in the 360 ci range? I want this engine to be as "comfortable" at 800+ power levels as possible, so every inch of displacement helps. The easier it can make the power, the less likely to break something.

Also, can you clarify having the machine shop pin fit the rods and pistons? Does that mean using floating wristpins, or something different? Sorry, like I said... I'm a newb to this And YES, I tried to Google it

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Pin fitting is simply honing the bores in the rod small end and the piston where the wrist pins go. Press fit pins still need the pin bores in the pistons to at least be checked, but since you're going for 1000whp, I'm pretty sure you will be using a floating pin like most aftermarkt stuff will be.

I understand what you're saying about a "comfortable" power level for the cubic inches, but I think there's a point of diminishing return as well. There is a line you cross where more cubic inches sacrifices the strength of the components because of design compromises.

Instead of a 4" stroke crank in a 5.3L block, I would consider a stock stroke crank in a 6.0L block. You still get similar cubic inches, but the pistons will be thicker by about .200" and will better withstand the heat and pressure. The stock stroke crank has more overlap, also making it stronger. The 4" bore also allows you more choices for heads, including the LSA heads which come on the factory supercharged ZL1 and CTSV.

There's more than one way to skin a cat, so there really isn't a right or wrong way to make 1000whp. The best way would probably be an aftermarket block with billet internals, but that's out of most people's price range. Your idea to use a 5.3L is feasible, but not too many people are doing it with reliability in mind.

Trans Am WS6 420

iTrader: (14)

Let's assume for a moment that the build has to be 5.3 block based. There is a long explaination, that ends with "... because the couch isn't comfy enough to get kicked there long term." What bore stroke combo would be that improvement over stock cubes, but still offer enough strength to be reliable? Is the answer clean up the bores, and use a forged, stock stroke assembly?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Pretty much. I think 3.800" is a common bore size for shelf stock aftermarket pistons. I think that's only .020" over for 329ci. Definitely doable.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

x2, just built an engine with these:

http://www.briantooleyracing.com/cus...for-boost.html

Trans Am WS6 420

iTrader: (14)

Nice, thanks for the link! Going stock stroke? What heads, and what's the cam look like?

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Stock stroke and 317 heads. Ran a 225 cam with good results so gonna go a bit bigger, want to rev it out a bit more so hopefully 236 cam helps that.