Cam for Daily
I want to figure out what the biggest cam I can get without ruining the drivability of the car?
I'm thinking .550-.600 lift. Is that too big? Anyone daily one of these with a "big" cam?
Thanks in advance
It sounds great at idle, easy to daily drive, easy amd quiet on the valvetrain and a good price also!
Video link and dyno graph in the link!!
Works great with any gear also.
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So on a stock ls1, with an ls6 intake, BBk 1-3/4 headers, BBk 2.5 y pipe and stock exhaust out the rear, through a 6 spd with that high lift hot cam, what do you think it will put down?
How bad will I need a tune after install?
I want to figure out what the biggest cam I can get without ruining the drivability of the car?
I'm thinking .550-.600 lift. Is that too big? Anyone daily one of these with a "big" cam?
Thanks in advance
^yes^. I lucked out and had a great tuner, but I still ended up getting HP tuners to make fine tune adjustments as time wore on and I found little issues I wanted to fix.
What makes a cam tough to tune isn't lift, and it isn't duration. it's overlap - when both valves are open at the same time. overlap is power, because the exhaust vacuum waves jump-start cylinder fill. However, overlap is also a vacuum leak AT THE VALVES. So, basically you're driving around with random vacuum leaks and misfires at low RPM. You can make a big cam very tame and a small cam a real pain in the *** with overlap.
Examples:
**230/236-116+4. 0.625/0.610 lift. Has 1 degree of overlap. Would have an idle note, but would not be all lumpy and would be very pleasant to drive. Now, you'd need to mill your heads to regain dynamic compression if you wanted good low end grunt, but this cam would be relatively tame
**224/230-108+0. 0.525/0.525 lift. Has ELEVEN degrees overlap, and would really test your tuning skills without making much power up top to compensate. Edit - so, you see a small cam can be made to be a pain, and a big cam can be made mild. overlap is the key ingredient to engine "behavior" at low RPM. not duration or lift.
Now, if you're going to cam and then gear down, which honestly, the two do go together quite well, then you can err on the side of being larger, and as long as your overlap doesn't get crazy, you'd be happy. Honestly, the hypothetical 230/236-116+4 i threw out randomly might not be too bad. probably a little more realistic would be something like 227/231-114+2, which would have decent torque, decent manners, and not choke off at high RPM.
So, consider 227/237-114+2 my recommendation for a balanced cam shaft.
Age makes a difference...when I was 18 I probably would of daily drove a MS3. Now that I am 36, the 224/228 112 is right at my limits for what I consider daily driver friendly in a 346.
Last edited by kinglt-1; Jul 26, 2017 at 10:23 AM.
It sounds great at idle, easy to daily drive, easy amd quiet on the valvetrain and a good price also!
Video link and dyno graph in the link!!
Works great with any gear also.
thanks!
Age makes a difference...when I was 18 I probably would of daily drove a MS3. Now that I am 36, the 224/228 112 is right at my limits for what I consider daily driver friendly in a 346.
Generally speaking, on a stock cube LS1 with stock gears using the standard off the shelf cams, I would limit the intake to 228 and go up to 232 with gears. You will gain power up top with more duration but if you aren't geared to use it, it won't be near as much fun. Torque is fun on a street car. Yes Vader gets into some good more detailed points.
I ran my old 228/230 112+4 on 3.42s daily and would do it again. It did love 3.73s. A close friend has the CamMotion Titan 4 on a 227/232 113+4 on 3.42s and it runs very good as well. The F11 was a CamMotion ground cam as well.
Last edited by 93Polo; Jul 28, 2017 at 03:15 PM.








