LTX_Alex

Hello Everyone,

I'm apologizing in advance if I don't sound if I know what I'm talking about this is my first engine I'm building, it's a 6.0 iron block.

I stuck between building a motor that BOTH perform at N/A and as well as boost. I'm breaking my head over it but I guess I have to choose one to build it correct the first time, right?

I'm debating on running a 408 or 370 w/, K1 H-Beam rods, Diamond pistons (still don't know how to choose what kind of piston yet neither), either 317 or L92/LS3 heads.

As far as cam goes I'll be running this cam from Tick Performance:
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls2-engines/

(so far i'm stuck on this one)

Main concern: I really would like to build a badass 408 more than the 370 as NA for the first half then later make it into a boosted motor but I'm just not sure if I should invest in 317 heads have a thicker deck and flow at 340 cfm and will hold up to 600rwhp (another thread I read earlier today but don't know how accurate that is) or LS3 heads (read that once they push water around 20+ psi but once again I don't know how accurate this is. I'll also be using ARP head studs to clamp either head down to prevent from water pushing through) that are good for forced induction and naturally aspirated? Just looking to make 450rwhp to 475rwhp NA for now then throw my 75mm billet wheel turbo on it down the road.

This is a budget build so I'm trying to save money too. I have a set of 241's as well lying around so don't know if that's relevant enough lmao...

I'm still in the gathering "information" part of my build and haven't purchased anything other than the bare block and haven't figured out all the pieces out to the puzzle neither.

All I have that I was gonna use on my LS1 before I ditched was LS9 head gaskets and ARP Studs which I still have.

Currently running a 4l60e with a 3200 stall before the car sat if that's additional info needed too.

Once again sorry for the confusion just want my iron block to perform in both areas if that's a possibility.

G Atsma

What year was the LS1 and the new block? Do they use same length head bolts or 2 different lengths? You might want to check on this.

axld

my2ct, I am building a 370 with a ls3 top end. this is going to be a N/A ( maybe a small shot ?). with my flat tops and decking the 821's .020" with my head gaskets looking like 11.0- 1 static. also I had bought a 2000 iron headed 6.0 with the long flange crank and had to buy a LQ9 style crank to work with my 4L60E ( came behind LQ9's) . with the ASA hot cam should be around 450ish rwhp. FYI, I bought EVERYTHING from one supplier the WS6store who is a sponsor here. hope this helps some.

axld

oh yea, the cost to go 408 added about $800/900 more.( I paid $400.00 for replacement crank so add that in also) past my budget this time.

moekluse

iTrader: (2)

OP, is this an all out ***** to the wall build or just a nice, lower abuse motor?

LTX_Alex

It was a '99 and the LQ9 I have I'm unable to find out what year it came of or what car that fact. I have the studs, and I'll play with them and see how it works.

KingColt

iTrader: (2)

You should be able to tell the year by the crank on the trans mounting side

G Atsma

The 99 will have the two-length studs/bolts, and the LQ9 MIGHT. Gotta get the year...

KingColt

iTrader: (2)

Pre 04 i think has a different crank and you have to get some kinda spacer to use a different year 4l80 or other transmission.

blackfbird98

Have to figure out what year block you have because 99-00 has longer crank flange in rear it will NOT mate to your 4l60e it will push the converter to far in and will lead to damage. People have made it work with heavy modification but imo is not worth it, I have a 00 lq4 and just bought 216 cast crank which is the same as 5.7 and lq9 just so I wouldnt have to deal with the headaches.

axld

yup. what I said in post#3.Circle D makes a custom converter 4l80e front on a 4l60e backhalf, but the price is $900.00 for the long flange to 4l60e.but a new crank is cheaper.