Engine knocking after a Head/cam swap!!!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 135
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Bro.. Not trying to be mean but you may wanna take her into a shop or do some extensive research. You obviously don't know what your talking about or what you need to be looking for. Yes you can see a few of the cam bearings from the valley cover if you pull the cam.. But not a chance you'll be able to see the crank bearings.
And bearings don't fall off
And bearings don't fall off
It's important to realize when one is in deep water way over ones head.
I do not have the skills to resolve the issues with this heads and cam install without expert help. Many board members would be in the same boat with me. It takes more back bone to face reality than to pretend otherwise.
Based on the objective evidence at hand, see the links below, I think the best course of action is stop working on the car. Proceeding on the current course with the current skill level is almost certain cost more than paying someone with skills to sort this out. The current course with the current skill set is likely to result in a damaged engine that needs replaced or rebuilt.
Find a friend or board member with real LS knowledge and mechanical skill that can come over fix and fix the car before you destroy the engine. Otherwise find a trust worthy shop and tow the car there for repairs.
They will need to cut open the oil filter and check it. Check push rod length, lifter preload, and check if the cam is degreed in properly along with doing a mechanical gauge check on the oil pressure. There will a lot of other stuff to check as well.
Tapping
And Tapping with video
And Lifter preload
And Stripping header bolts
sounds like the PR's are waaay too short.
pull the valve covers and put #1 cylinder on the heel of the lobe (both rocker tips as high as they go, least spring compression
then grab the pushrod. preload should be such that you cannot turn the PR or just barely turn it.
pull the valve covers and put #1 cylinder on the heel of the lobe (both rocker tips as high as they go, least spring compression
then grab the pushrod. preload should be such that you cannot turn the PR or just barely turn it.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,414
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How did you check push rod length? Pull the belt off, to see if the noise goes away. About the only thing that can make a knocking sound is a rod.
I had a rod let go with no knock, and no material in the pan, non-ls motor, the oil light would come on at idle.
Stampede.
I had a rod let go with no knock, and no material in the pan, non-ls motor, the oil light would come on at idle.
Stampede.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,293
Likes: 3,617
From: Central Cal.
Dylan- You THINK you know what you're talking about, but the questions you ask and statements you make indicate otherwise. Let someone who DOES know what they're talking about look at the problem. Self confidence is good, but FALSE confidence will get you in trouble fast.
I thought I knew a bunch when I was 23 too. Reality gave me a more thorough education VERY quickly...
I thought I knew a bunch when I was 23 too. Reality gave me a more thorough education VERY quickly...
Last edited by G Atsma; Nov 23, 2018 at 10:50 AM.
Ive seen more than 1 camshaft get bent during shipping. It gets installed and takes center cam bearings out. You prolly didn’t measure runout...most don’t. Hopefully for your sake I’m way off base.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,414
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Stampede.
G, since 8Lug got banned, are you looking for a new “friend” to poke at? The “clackery” word is indeed a good one, but I have to give you points for “diarrhetic”.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,293
Likes: 3,617
From: Central Cal.
His remark to me came right out of left field. I had said nothing bad or otherwise to him at all. He was being a smartass, so it got paid back. But I notice he deleted his post, so I will too.
