Ben16SS

Hello everyone I just bought a lq9 out of a 2002 Escalade and will start digging into it soon. Is it ok to remove main/rod caps and visually inspect the bearings and put them back if they look good or is that a bad idea? Lastly is it ok to change out main/rod bearings without having machine work done? The reason beings is I pulled this engine from the junk yard so I don't really know what condition it the engine is in and want to take a look. thanks in advance guys and gals.

G Atsma

Do you know how many miles on it?

Ben16SS

The Escalade odomoter said 160k Miles so that's my assumption.

G Atsma

I would leave it alone and run it. These engines see 300k miles without breaking a sweat.
Just do an oil/filter change, fix any leaky gaskets/seals, and send it.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Remove valve covers and pan and have a look. You never know how well it was or wasn’t maintained.
If it’s clean, prob ok.

Personally, I’d look. I’d want to see the bores as well.

Ben16SS

Yeah im gonna have to tear the engine down just for piece of mind. I noticed some oil in the intake which is concerning me is that a common sign? possibly a bad PVC system or something?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

That oil is common. The PCV is connected to the intake and over time the oil accumulates. It’s usually quite sticky.

In the old days of carbs, the air/fuel just washed the intake clean.

Ron

Ben16SS

oh makes sense. this is my first ls non carbed engine so this is all kinda new to me. thanks for the help.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

For the minimal price of new bearings and platigauge its a no brainer if youre doing the whole engine.

We have complete gasket/bolt sets for $330 and with king main and rod bearings would be $415.

We can also throw in a "How to build and modify GM LS engines" book with assembly and tech info for $20 more. Great combo.

If youre looking at a rering also we have those, plus literally every other part available. One stop shop recently and best price vs quality available.

B52bombardier1

Depending on how long the motor has been sitting not running, you might check that the fuel injectors are not stuck. I also replaced the knock sensors and water pump on my LM7 before it went in. I'd also have a look in the oil pan and at the oil pump screen. At 160,000, I might also change the valve seals. But as advised above, I would not do much more than that.

Rick

Ben16SS

I popped the heads off today and all looks good with exception of what appears to be fresh water in cylinder #7. I vacuumed the water out and found no rust or cracks on the cylinder walls so i cleaned all remaining cylinders and coated with fresh oil. heads also look good I found that the intake on cylinder#7 was wet so im assuming rain got in through the intake at the junk yard? what do you guys think is this cause for concern? One more question the valve train components rockers/springs ext. on the 1357 side is noticeably a darker shade then the 2468 side. what does that mean and should i be worried? thanks again for all the help so far you guys are good people.

huggerls1

The different color between the heads is also normal, i think that is from the pcv system as well.

Ben16SS

now that you mention it it was from the pvc side, interesting.

Reptile_WS6

iTrader: (1)

A buddy of mine does this with the engines he gets out of the junkyard. He's the type that likes to change the reluctor wheel, so while he's there, he puts new mains and rod bearing in. Seems to work just fine for him. I guess it all depends on how comfortable you feel about doing it.

cookseyb

Rod and main brgs are the same as SBC so they are cheap, while you are there why not change....

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Thats not right.
Rod bearings, yes, but mains? No way. The ls mains are much larger.

Ben16SS

yeah i am thinking i will change them since im already taking a look anyways like you said. What exactly is the thought behind changing the reluctor wheel?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I can’t think of any thought behind changing the reluctor wheel.

And if the bearings look good, leave them be. In their original positions.

stockA4

Check out my build thread, the only new parts in my engine are the Pistons, rings, head gaskets, oil pump, timing chain, camshaft, valvesprings and valvestem seals and it's been to the machine shop! Imo It's not necessary to change any of the bearings unless they are missing haha

Ben16SS

Man you like living on the edge you didn't measure anything hahaha.