5.3 getting hot. On 68 degree day
#1
5.3 getting hot. On 68 degree day
This is a new 5.3 build. Thermastat is opening lower hose upper hose is hot. Same with radiator
it seems to stay at 230. Which is way to hot
I have heater hoses looped And coolant bypass look at video.
Any thoughts? Air pockets because of water pump to high?
it seems to stay at 230. Which is way to hot
I have heater hoses looped And coolant bypass look at video.
Any thoughts? Air pockets because of water pump to high?
#2
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I can’t get video to play. You running fans? Probably an air pocket. Seems to be an issue with a lot of folks.
The following users liked this post:
GMTECH4 (06-03-2020)
#5
TECH Fanatic
Yes, fill the engine by pouring into the top radiator hose. What are you doing with the steam vent line? It should be dumping into the radiator somehow and this line also helps to purge air pockets out of the coolant system.
Rick
Rick
#7
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#9
#13
So I replace sending unit bought temp gun same reading 230 plus. It does have a new water pump.
my timing is 20 degrees.
I am currently got car front 3 ft in air. To try and get rid of air
my timing is 20 degrees.
I am currently got car front 3 ft in air. To try and get rid of air
#14
heater hoses looped
Might also want to consider adding a recovery bottle, such as the 2-port one that it came with when it was in a truck. Plumb it with the steam vent going to one of its ports and the other going to the water pump. I.e. essentially break that little short piece of line you have there and put the bottle there. That'll take care of the air problem as well, if you mount it up high, like it was in the truck.
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
If you still have a lot of air in the system after filling from the water pump maybe you have a headgasket leaking pushing combustion pressure into the cooling system?? I know you said you have flow but maybe it’s restricted, Have you swapped thermostats?
just throwing out ideas
#16
Doesn't matter if "it works" for one situation or not. It's not right. Cheeeeeeeeep and eeeeeeeeeeezy to make it better.
Undo the "looped" heater circuit. It allows hot water to pass directly from the top of the engine right back into the "cooled" side. Kinda the same effect as, if your radiator was just a piece of hose.
Undo the "looped" heater circuit. It allows hot water to pass directly from the top of the engine right back into the "cooled" side. Kinda the same effect as, if your radiator was just a piece of hose.
#17
You really think that's my problem
Doesn't matter if "it works" for one situation or not. It's not right. Cheeeeeeeeep and eeeeeeeeeeezy to make it better.
Undo the "looped" heater circuit. It allows hot water to pass directly from the top of the engine right back into the "cooled" side. Kinda the same effect as, if your radiator was just a piece of hose.
Undo the "looped" heater circuit. It allows hot water to pass directly from the top of the engine right back into the "cooled" side. Kinda the same effect as, if your radiator was just a piece of hose.
#20
TECH Addict
Don't block it,, put in a restricter, the factory system runs coolant 100% of the time, temps in the car are managed by dampers not coolant flow. A piece of round aluminum stock in in the hose that has a 1/4 inch hole in it (give or take) will allow the bypass flow that the system needs to really regulate correctly, the heat flow keeps water moving through the system if the thermostat is still all the way shut. By letting the water move your gauges and sensors get better readings, and it allows some flow past the thermostat to keep it getting the real water temps.
I have "fixed" many many race cars with cooling problems with this setup. Not limited to GM at all. Mopars were some of the last cars that fully shut off water flow in the heater system most others went with a diverting valve that looped through a smaller pipe, then migrated to the full flow system with a damper.
One other way to do it and have it look cool is a pair of AN fittings threaded in to the heater ports, with a short piece of AN line, a couple fittings including one with a reducer section.. Did it once cause its was what I had in the race trailer and it turned out to work pretty well.
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I have "fixed" many many race cars with cooling problems with this setup. Not limited to GM at all. Mopars were some of the last cars that fully shut off water flow in the heater system most others went with a diverting valve that looped through a smaller pipe, then migrated to the full flow system with a damper.
One other way to do it and have it look cool is a pair of AN fittings threaded in to the heater ports, with a short piece of AN line, a couple fittings including one with a reducer section.. Did it once cause its was what I had in the race trailer and it turned out to work pretty well.
d
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G Atsma (05-30-2020)