Mild LM7 Build (for an 85 c10)
#1
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Hey ya'll. This is my first LS, however I am not new to the engine building world. Ive gotta 5.3 im doing a refresh/junkyard build ( I know, not my style, but the parts were given to me). I'll build and blueprint a 6.0 later in life, but for now I should be happy with this.
Engine has 150k mile on it, although I haven't torn it down yet. It has the 862 heads.
I've been given a texas speed stage 3 cam (Unsure of the exact grind ATM)
PAC .660 dual valve spirng kit
Chromoly push rods
Titanium/chromoly retainers ( For some reason the pac springs came with both? half and half)
Some unkown SS long tubes ( again, need to measure size)
Larger injectors
catch can kit
slightly larger throttle body (drive by wire)
Melling oil pump
some fancy style welded tall valve cover, motor mounts, coil mounts, etc
I know, I need to look up a lot of these parts so I know exactly what they are. However, I have a few questions.
I never liked dual springs in other engines. I prefer beehives (less seat pressure and better harmonics). Will a set of LS6 springs suit my build better? I'm thinking these springs may be overkill as it was purchased for a turbo build.
Also, what about head gaskets? Is there any reason I shouldnt use a set of 1mm/.04inch gaskets on a 5.3? Ive heard of people using ls7 head gaskets, but thats the dumbest thing ive ever heard LOL. Not even the same bore size. A litter more quench would be nice for controlling heat. Plus i would like more compression with the added duration of this cam.
Anything else I should know abaout?
Thanks
edit- also, what lifters would suite me best for texas speed cam profiles?
Engine has 150k mile on it, although I haven't torn it down yet. It has the 862 heads.
I've been given a texas speed stage 3 cam (Unsure of the exact grind ATM)
PAC .660 dual valve spirng kit
Chromoly push rods
Titanium/chromoly retainers ( For some reason the pac springs came with both? half and half)
Some unkown SS long tubes ( again, need to measure size)
Larger injectors
catch can kit
slightly larger throttle body (drive by wire)
Melling oil pump
some fancy style welded tall valve cover, motor mounts, coil mounts, etc
I know, I need to look up a lot of these parts so I know exactly what they are. However, I have a few questions.
I never liked dual springs in other engines. I prefer beehives (less seat pressure and better harmonics). Will a set of LS6 springs suit my build better? I'm thinking these springs may be overkill as it was purchased for a turbo build.
Also, what about head gaskets? Is there any reason I shouldnt use a set of 1mm/.04inch gaskets on a 5.3? Ive heard of people using ls7 head gaskets, but thats the dumbest thing ive ever heard LOL. Not even the same bore size. A litter more quench would be nice for controlling heat. Plus i would like more compression with the added duration of this cam.
Anything else I should know abaout?
Thanks
edit- also, what lifters would suite me best for texas speed cam profiles?
Last edited by chickensoup; 10-04-2022 at 06:57 AM.
#2
TECH Veteran
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Do cheap out on LS7 lifters. Youll regret you went this route down the road...
Go Morel 7717 or better on the lifters.
I would recommend you look in BTR valevesprings. They have a great reputation and Brian Tooley stands behind his customers.
Go Morel 7717 or better on the lifters.
I would recommend you look in BTR valevesprings. They have a great reputation and Brian Tooley stands behind his customers.
#3
TECH Resident
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Double springs are the only thing I will use with these modern, aggressive lobe cam grinds. They are more durable than the beehives and control the valve better.
#4
TECH Enthusiast
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I don't see any downside to dual springs. I whooped on my TSP .660 duals (made by PAC) for 20k miles and still had no signs of valve float at 7000 rpm. You also have the added security of 2 springs to save you if one decides to break.
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Fast355 (10-04-2022)
#5
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
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It’s impossible to spec a valvespring without cam specs. For what it’s worth, you want to run as light a spring as possible while still controlling the valve properly.
#7
TECH Senior Member
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#8
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
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A really good spring package for most camshafts under .660 lift. The camshaft manufacturer will give you the best advice always on spring choice. Lobe family matters. Lift obviously matters. Rpm range matters. Are the springs polished? Just out of curiosity only here…
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chickensoup (10-05-2022), G Atsma (10-05-2022)
#10
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ok, so it turns out this is actually a stage 4 ls3 cam.
Do yall think this is too much duration? Lift isnt crazy. But then again, my engine is 5.3L, while this cam was designed for a completely different 6.2L ls3
Description: TSP's all new line of LS3 camshafts are a result of months of engine dyno camshaft development using our state of the art Superflow 902 engine dyno. Using a brand new LS3 crate engine we started from scratch to build the most power LS3 camshafts available in the country.The 235/239 camshaft uses a all new proprietary intake lobe designed to offer extra duration while maintaining proper piston-to-valve clearance for stock piston LS3/ L92 engines. The result of these lobe design changes is a camshaft that makes more power than our popular 231/236 camshaft while still maintaining adequate p/v clearance! (check dyno sheet above) LS3 computers can easily be tuned to drive great with this camshaft with some bucking below 1500 RPM. Automatic-equipped cars will require a torque converter with a minimum stall speed of 2,800 RPM. We recommend this camshaft for LS3 or LS2 engines using L92/LS3 rectangle port cylinder heads!
Specs: 235/239 .627"/624" 112 LSA
**The factory LS3 camshaft uses a single-bolt cam design, which means one bolt holds the upper timing sprocket on the camshaft. For LS3 vehicles, you must convert to the three-bolt camshaft design that the 1997-2006 LS-based vehicles use. The three-bolt conversion kit will supply the correct 4x upper timing gear to supply the correct camshaft position signal, as well as the ARP camshaft bolt kit that will supply the three required bolts. We also offer the conversion kit with a complete, upgraded timing set for those wanting to replace the entire set.**
Do yall think this is too much duration? Lift isnt crazy. But then again, my engine is 5.3L, while this cam was designed for a completely different 6.2L ls3
Description: TSP's all new line of LS3 camshafts are a result of months of engine dyno camshaft development using our state of the art Superflow 902 engine dyno. Using a brand new LS3 crate engine we started from scratch to build the most power LS3 camshafts available in the country.The 235/239 camshaft uses a all new proprietary intake lobe designed to offer extra duration while maintaining proper piston-to-valve clearance for stock piston LS3/ L92 engines. The result of these lobe design changes is a camshaft that makes more power than our popular 231/236 camshaft while still maintaining adequate p/v clearance! (check dyno sheet above) LS3 computers can easily be tuned to drive great with this camshaft with some bucking below 1500 RPM. Automatic-equipped cars will require a torque converter with a minimum stall speed of 2,800 RPM. We recommend this camshaft for LS3 or LS2 engines using L92/LS3 rectangle port cylinder heads!
Specs: 235/239 .627"/624" 112 LSA
**The factory LS3 camshaft uses a single-bolt cam design, which means one bolt holds the upper timing sprocket on the camshaft. For LS3 vehicles, you must convert to the three-bolt camshaft design that the 1997-2006 LS-based vehicles use. The three-bolt conversion kit will supply the correct 4x upper timing gear to supply the correct camshaft position signal, as well as the ARP camshaft bolt kit that will supply the three required bolts. We also offer the conversion kit with a complete, upgraded timing set for those wanting to replace the entire set.**
#11
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
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Definitely bigger than I’d want in a 5.3 daily driver. It won’t drive nice to the local grocery either. It’s gonna want supporting mods to shine, ie compression, fast intake, big TB, headers and unrestricted exhaust, converter, etc. If I were you, I’d sell the camshaft and look into something much milder if this is a daily or weekend cruiser.
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
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ye. I just bought this. IDK the quality of summit cams, but the dyno results were REALLY good.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-8711R1
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-8711R1
It actually has more overlap 13 degrees than the 235/239 .627"/624" 112 LSA cam mentioned earlier which has 12.5 degrees. I wouldn't want the new cam in a daily or driver either.
Here's a few that might be of interest if driver friendly is important.
Summit Ghost Cam 222/233 on 115 is about the max I'd want in a 5.3 for a truck that's a driver. It's proven to be able to make ~450+ whp in an LS1 and would also do well in a 5.3
There may be some ~216/220 size cams that are pretty sweet as well.
Texas Speed 's 212/218 low lift truck cam or maybe a high lift might be worth a look as well as the btr-gen-iii-iv-ls-truck-norris-cam which is also proven.
@Tuskyz28 is on the mark, Go Morel 7717 or better on the lifters.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 10-06-2022 at 10:08 AM.
#14
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oops. didnt see this post. Yeah, i love the sound of a wide LSA but I need to be able to drive this thing on short notices.
Im leaning towards summits V2 of the ghost cam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-8715R1
Im leaning towards summits V2 of the ghost cam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-8715R1
#15
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
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The LS platform is very efficient. It does not need a lot of camshaft to help itself make good power. I agree 100% with 99 Blackbird regarding the cam choices in this 5.3 build.
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chickensoup (10-06-2022)
#16
Launching!
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Way more camshaft than I would want. What pistons? you may run into valve to piston clearance issues.
I would keep it in the low 220’s intake duration @ .050
I would keep it in the low 220’s intake duration @ .050
#17
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Got the old 350 OUT. That thing was nasty. Truck looks WAY better sitting tall up front. New seals on engine. New cam. New oil pump. Ls7 lifters (sketch brand). Cleaned the heads. Lapped the exhaust valves. Installed the pac spring kit.
Working On installing the trunion kit. The head studs I have are for gen 4 ls. Oops. So waiting on them.
Wiring is gonna be fun lol
#19
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Sorry, missed your post. I went with this one. https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...s%2FSUM-8715R1
So... the truck caught on fire. Fortunately, i only needed to touch up on minimal wiring.
The good news is, it's basically finished. Just need to put the interior back together and figure out an exhaust system. ill be getting a set of sqaure coil packs tomarow(i think they look cleaner lol).
What exhuast would yall recommend with my cam? The shorty headers I have are 2.5 inch at the exit and 1 3/4 at the the primaries. X pipe? Duals? What size?
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