92SierraSLE

Good evening. This is my first post and first build. Thanks in advance for any guidance to help navigate through these very exciting/uncharted waters.

I recently picked up a 2005 LQ4 from a local scrapyard. My son and I started tearing it down with a plan of honing and reassembling with all new seals and new rings. We pulled the heads today and aside from corrosion in the water jackets all looked good for the most part (no scrapes or gouges on cylinder walls)… with the expedition of cylinder 7. It looks different from the others. Im hoping these photos are enough for folks on the forum to help me determine whether is safe to proceed with the original plan.

Aside from the engine itself, no parts have been purchased yet.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The way that ring is shaped it looks like there was some type of liquid in the cylinder that stained it. I've seen a lot of pictures on here where people buy JY engines and cylinders have had water in them and they are rusted.

Obviously there's no rust on yours.

It's not cracked is it?

92SierraSLE

Thank you for the input LilJay. No, I see no cracks.

I’m planning on using the hone below based on what others have posted.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Yup. 100% on using that style of hone.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I recommend you get a 320 grit hone. The 400 is too fine in my experience.

Also use a 30 Weight Non-Detergent oil if your not using the Flex Hone branded hone oil.

Jake Wade

Doesn’t matter but, That appears to be #8 cylinder.
As others have mentioned, looks where coolant had sit in there awhile and stained it. Ball hone should clean it up.
I would definitely mic the bores to check for size, taper, and out of round.
Hopefully all is within service limit.

strutaeng

Rust stains look worse on the photos, especially with flash. I had this on an engine that had water get inside. Can you feel anything if you run your fingernail across?

Ditto on checking bore, out-of-roundness and taper if at all possible.

pdxmotorhead

I am lazy so I'd strip it, and send it to be hot tanked..
Rust in the cooling jacket can hot spot some, plus it will just keep working..
I have also found that having a decent privateer machine shop do the
bottom end was actually fairly cheap and they do it every day..

Hot tank+ polish the crank and install cam with new bearings..
I think the last one I did was about 250 to have them do the basics on the block and
Pop the cam bearings in..

92SierraSLE

Thank you 1fastbrick. Will def consider going with a 320 grit.

92SierraSLE

Thank you all for the feedback! You can feel a slight bump when running your finger across the cylinder.

I called a local machine shop (City Motor Supply in Dallas) and was quoted $200 to have the block cleaned. Another $25 per cam bearing. I plan on checking with one more local shop before making a decision. Much more affordable than I had imagined.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I purchased both for the same reason. The 400 didn't make much of a difference and I was concerned I would not get a good ring seal. The 320 worked much better and you could see with out a doubt it would seal much better.