Phantom_GTO

Hey everyone I知 debating on a cam for my ls im going back and forth with the BTR stage 2 and the BTR stage 3 cam I want peoples opinions on them! Also what size stall converters people are using for each cam! This will be basically just a cruiser/daily driver I want a cam that gives it a lot more of a chip while at idle so I知 also open to cam suggestions! Thanks everyone! This will be going inside a 2005 GTO 6.0!

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Unless someone has ran both cams in the same engine, I'd take any advice I get online with a grain of salt. I could give you an opinion, but I have no experience with those cams. I run a BTR LS3 Stage 4 in my SS, and I love it, but I have a 6 speed manual. If you want a noticeable idle and daily drivability, I'd find something in the high 210s/low 220's on the intake side with a significant amount of overlap. Probably would equate to around 109-111 LSA when all is said and done, but that number is just a byproduct of specs created to increase overlap. But lots of overlap can cause tuning headaches at times, so you have to figure out of you have a capable tuner. As for a stall converter, spend the money on a really high quality converter and use the company's expertise to make a choice on stall. I once went from an el cheapo 2400-2600 converter to a quality 3400-3800 converter, and the higher stall actually slipped LESS under part throttle conditions, which made my car much more fun to drive. But I haven't had an automatic performance car in like 16 years, lol.

wlink14

I have a very mild 216/220 .560 lift cam in my 6.0, this makes tuning really easy and the engine is well mannered. I have the ability to get good fuel mileage (21+mpg). This is all tuned by me. It is not very choppy at idle but it is all tuning.
I also use a cheapy 3200-3500 stall, and as LS1Formulation said above, it slips alot, but this makes it really fun.
The engine is the most responsive engine I have ever driven. If I floor it, just as the throttle hits the floorboard the engine is already 5500+rpm. Like the rpms are already high before the transmission downshifts.
The cam I have is probably small enough to use the stock converter on a 6.0L. If I were to get another converter it would be a Circle D billet deal.

DUSTYWS6

I would go with the smaller cam. Why sacrifice good drivability for only an overall 2% power increase (say 410 rwhp vs 400 rwhp). Not a great risk vs reward. I have a Yank SS3600 and I’m really happy with the drivability and I have 2.73 gears. In hindsight I should have got a SS3800.

PARMY

I run a Tick SNS Stage 3 cam with a 4000 stall and 390 gears. Zero drivability issues once the tune was on par. If you're going with the stage 2 came I 'd say 3600 stall minimum, but for a stage 3 I'd go 4000. If your tune is good, you shouldn't have any issues.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Also, as a general rule, LS engines like a lot of stall. The stock LS1 has a 4400 RPM torque peak, IIRC, and you want your converter to flash to right about 500-700 RPM before the torque peaks. Add a larger cam and the torque peak will shift even higher.

Phantom_GTO

So even if I知 just planning on driving this car around I need a stall that big, i have no plan to race this car whatsoever. Just curious im pretty new to the ls still

Phantom_GTO

Why can the truck cams get away with not switching out converters compared to the car cams you do?

G Atsma

Because truck cams generally have more conservative specs that keep the torque curve in the lower end of the RPM scale, obviating the need for a higher stall converter.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

YANK 3,200, high stall ratio FTW!!! Have had a 3,200 stall, high stall ratio Yank in my 2000 A4 C5 since 2005, 70,000+ miles, no issues. Just put the trans in D/OD, and GAS IT!!! Get the highest stall ratio Yank offers. The 3,200 stall will be fine with either cam, but probably best with the stage 3. You'll love it, trust me.

EDIT!!!!!
This converter worked great with a 238ｰ/242ｰ, 114ｰ LSA, .650" lift cam.. It was in a 427, but a 228ｰ/232ｰ, 114ｰ LSA, .580"-.600" lift cam in a 350 should be fine, too. My .02.....

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Ever driven or taken a ride in a stock Grand National? The reason I ask is this: If you just take off from a dead stop in a GN, it's slow as hell until about 40-50 feet out, then the turbo comes on like a light switch. Driving a car with a larger cam and a stock converter has similar drivability. Hardly any torque down low, and then it comes on in a rush. Even if you punch it to the floor, it's going to bog a bit before beginning to pull hard. A stall converter, when built correctly, will allow your engine to rev through the low torque dead zone at WOT, and still have good part throttle manners. If you're only planning on driving this car around, as you say, why cam it at all? Because, regardless of racing, you want it to be faster. A well matched converter is going to greatly multiply the gains you'll get from a cam, and you'll enjoy driving it more.

Phantom_GTO

I have always wanted a choppier idle in the car is why I知 going to cam it.