why should i buy stronger pushrods?
why should i buy stronger pushrods? heres my logic.. someone tell me if it makes sence.
i have a 6spd. so it stands to reason that one day, i will do the infamous 1->2->1 shift.
now as we all know, when you do that, the odds of bending a pushrod are pretty high..
well heres my thinking on it... everyone i know whos done that (alot of people) replace their pushrods, and they run fine.... no bent valves, no holy pistons lol....
now with stronger pushrods, instead of the cheap, easily replaced pushrod, bending, theres a greater chance of somthing else breaking... right?
so it stands to reason that unless theres another reason to switch pushrods, i should stick to stock replacement pushrods....
what are the other reasons to upgrade the pushrods over stock? do they fail with higher spring pressure or somthing?
i have a 6spd. so it stands to reason that one day, i will do the infamous 1->2->1 shift.
now as we all know, when you do that, the odds of bending a pushrod are pretty high..
well heres my thinking on it... everyone i know whos done that (alot of people) replace their pushrods, and they run fine.... no bent valves, no holy pistons lol....
now with stronger pushrods, instead of the cheap, easily replaced pushrod, bending, theres a greater chance of somthing else breaking... right?
so it stands to reason that unless theres another reason to switch pushrods, i should stick to stock replacement pushrods....
what are the other reasons to upgrade the pushrods over stock? do they fail with higher spring pressure or somthing?
mrdude i'd suggest using your search button. from personal experience, i had a totally stock (read totally stock) 98 and had a pushrod break at very close to redline. i had to tear the motor apart just to find the other pieces of this pushrod. now having replaced it and shifting a little higher i have had no problems whatsoever.
Think of it like a fat man on a weak ladder. replace with a stronger ladder and you're saying that he's gonna break now as opposed to the weaker ladder being the weak link?
I know its a stupid analogy but hopefully you see my point
Think of it like a fat man on a weak ladder. replace with a stronger ladder and you're saying that he's gonna break now as opposed to the weaker ladder being the weak link?
I know its a stupid analogy but hopefully you see my point
stock pushrods tend to flex with the stronger springs/aftermarket cams,especially at higher rpms.you still can bend or break a valve if a stock pushrod fails.do yourself a favor and buy the stronger pushrods.i understand your thinking on this,but believe me your better off with the stronger pushrods.
lol, trust me, i did a search.... im online about 40 hours a week.
its just really hard to find somthing with such common terms..
plus the general talk goes along the lines of:
my pushrods bent/broke.
im putting stronger ones in..
what i want to know, is WHY it bent/broke. id rather break a pushrod then bust a piston or bend a valve....
and im kinda missing your analogy..
are you saying that even with the stronger pushrods, its enough of a weak point that the rod will still be the first thing to give?
its just really hard to find somthing with such common terms..
plus the general talk goes along the lines of:
my pushrods bent/broke.
im putting stronger ones in..
what i want to know, is WHY it bent/broke. id rather break a pushrod then bust a piston or bend a valve....
and im kinda missing your analogy..
are you saying that even with the stronger pushrods, its enough of a weak point that the rod will still be the first thing to give?
Hey dudeman.
You didn't mention if you were keeping the engine stock or not. If you're keeping it stock, keep the stock pushrods. They're an excellent 'fuse' so to speak. They will bend first, preventing eyebrowed pistons and bent valves.
However, if you're going with anything but the mildest cams, you will probably need upgraded pushrods for the reasons stated - the stock ones will bend on their own under the spring pressure.
Having said that, I don't know of anyone ever keeping stock pushrods in a cammed motor. I don't know if anyone has actually tested it out to see if the pushrods will fail with some nasty double springs. It makes sense that they would...but do they?
Of course, you could just not suck at shifting
Dope
You didn't mention if you were keeping the engine stock or not. If you're keeping it stock, keep the stock pushrods. They're an excellent 'fuse' so to speak. They will bend first, preventing eyebrowed pistons and bent valves.
However, if you're going with anything but the mildest cams, you will probably need upgraded pushrods for the reasons stated - the stock ones will bend on their own under the spring pressure.
Having said that, I don't know of anyone ever keeping stock pushrods in a cammed motor. I don't know if anyone has actually tested it out to see if the pushrods will fail with some nasty double springs. It makes sense that they would...but do they?
Of course, you could just not suck at shifting
Dope
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,541
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
You may want to read this...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/249029-t56-tranny-pretty-damn-tough.html
I grabbed 2nd at 88 mph
Chromemoly's to the rescue? Probably...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/249029-t56-tranny-pretty-damn-tough.html
I grabbed 2nd at 88 mph
Chromemoly's to the rescue? Probably...
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Originally Posted by Dope
Hey dudeman.
You didn't mention if you were keeping the engine stock or not. If you're keeping it stock, keep the stock pushrods. They're an excellent 'fuse' so to speak. They will bend first, preventing eyebrowed pistons and bent valves.
However, if you're going with anything but the mildest cams, you will probably need upgraded pushrods for the reasons stated - the stock ones will bend on their own under the spring pressure.
Having said that, I don't know of anyone ever keeping stock pushrods in a cammed motor. I don't know if anyone has actually tested it out to see if the pushrods will fail with some nasty double springs. It makes sense that they would...but do they?
Of course, you could just not suck at shifting
Dope
You didn't mention if you were keeping the engine stock or not. If you're keeping it stock, keep the stock pushrods. They're an excellent 'fuse' so to speak. They will bend first, preventing eyebrowed pistons and bent valves.
However, if you're going with anything but the mildest cams, you will probably need upgraded pushrods for the reasons stated - the stock ones will bend on their own under the spring pressure.
Having said that, I don't know of anyone ever keeping stock pushrods in a cammed motor. I don't know if anyone has actually tested it out to see if the pushrods will fail with some nasty double springs. It makes sense that they would...but do they?
Of course, you could just not suck at shifting
Dope
you know where im at on my build... im just worried since i havent heard it run yet... lil tweeked out about.... did the previous owner mis a shift? was the oil changed? ect.....
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Verdad Gallardo I hear that. It's a hard decision, especially when, like I said, I've never heard of anyone running stock pushrods with an aftermarket cam. If you're talking something like a TR224, I don't think it's worth the risk. They have aggressive lobes (XE-R) and most people generally run double springs with them. You bend/break the pushrod with that and you'll have caused the exact thing you're trying to avoid.
Tough call!
Dope
Tough call!
Dope
Originally Posted by Dope
I hear that. It's a hard decision, especially when, like I said, I've never heard of anyone running stock pushrods with an aftermarket cam. If you're talking something like a TR224, I don't think it's worth the risk. They have aggressive lobes (XE-R) and most people generally run double springs with them. You bend/break the pushrod with that and you'll have caused the exact thing you're trying to avoid.
Tough call!
Dope
Tough call!
Dope
its pretty amazing they arnt breaking springs after a few thousand miles.... i kinda attribute some of that to the genIIIs modern behive spring design, but it still makes me edgy... i mean, its snapping that b!tch open quick and dropping it shut....
with the cam, its getting pushrods... i was just debating now, or later as far as when to change them...
if they save a misshift, im going to keep them in... i guess i'll just leave it alone until cam time... *shrug*
they still dont save a mis-shift. breaking a pushrod at higher rpm could still result in dropping a valve. i think you're still not thinking about this correctly but it's all good man. just so long as you replace em when you put that cam in you'll be good but if you have it open right now i'd say go ahead and do it.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Quiet Place in the Country, FL
You want stiffer pushrods because you don't want the stock ones bending like a pole vaulters pole and causing valve train separation. Now even with really stiff pushrods, you will get lifter lofting due to pushrod deflection once you reach 4800RPM. Beyond that speed the lifter rarely if ever touches the nose of the cam but "lofts" over it and lands on the closing side of the lobe like a ski jumper on a slope. You just don't want too much uncontrolled lofting or you will get severe cam damage like the damage being shown on one of the opening threads. Years ago I put .080" pushrods in a SBC with a 204/214, .420/,443 cam . 110# on the seat and 260# open. Just the pushrods made 12hp and 14lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels; not to mention that the truck drove better everywhere. That's why you want stiff pushrods safety and power!!
My stock ones were bent from a stock cam and stock valvesprings. Found this out when I did my cam swap.
I don't buy into the fuse theory. It's not like the valve gets "crushed" between the piston and the pushrod.
I don't buy into the fuse theory. It's not like the valve gets "crushed" between the piston and the pushrod.
