Anyone still running a 221/221 .558/.558 112 cam?
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Anyone still running a 221/221 .558/.558 112 cam?
Just curious if anyone is still running one of these cams from back in the day. I'm doing a little budget build-up and was going to get a Z06 cam and springs, but a buddy of mine has a Lunati-ground 221/221 .558/.558 112 cam and some Comp 918 springs that he's going to hook me up with as well as help me install for the same price as the LS6 stuff, and I'm wondering what kind of power I can expect to see from this stuff, as well as what RPM range I'll need to use for this cam (think it's a T1 I believe, if I have the name designations right).
Car will have a lid, WS6 lower airbox (hopefully), smooth belows, LS6 intake, the cam and 918 springs, and Pacesetter long tubes. Currently the exhaust will be a off road y-pipe setup with a Hooker catback but I'm seriously thinking of 2.5" or 3" true duals under the rear axle and out the back.
Stock with 2.73 gears the car made 282/304 on the dyno and ran 13.6 at the track, and with a lid and cutout it ran 13.3. The car has or will have all of the above along with 3.42 gears and a 3200 stall running on BFG drag radials at the track. Tuning via HPTuners. Hoping for around 340 RWHP (after the converter and gear loss) and 12.49 or under at the track. Are my HP and ET goals reasonable?
Car will have a lid, WS6 lower airbox (hopefully), smooth belows, LS6 intake, the cam and 918 springs, and Pacesetter long tubes. Currently the exhaust will be a off road y-pipe setup with a Hooker catback but I'm seriously thinking of 2.5" or 3" true duals under the rear axle and out the back.
Stock with 2.73 gears the car made 282/304 on the dyno and ran 13.6 at the track, and with a lid and cutout it ran 13.3. The car has or will have all of the above along with 3.42 gears and a 3200 stall running on BFG drag radials at the track. Tuning via HPTuners. Hoping for around 340 RWHP (after the converter and gear loss) and 12.49 or under at the track. Are my HP and ET goals reasonable?
#4
I am not running that cam. But I think it would be a verygood choice for your combo 3.42, stall, headers, etc. Your motor will make respectable power with stock heads. Sometimes I wish I picked a cam like yours.
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Wow, I'm surprised by the positive response. Thanks for the encouragement fellas.
Good to know, as that was my plan. Do a little budget setup right now with the cam, headers, intake, and maybe true duals and if I'm wanting a little more power next racing season, slap on a set of GMPP CNC'd heads or some AFR heads to pick up a few more ponies. My goal for the car has ALWAYS been to keep it as streetable as possible and still get an 11 second timeslip. If I could get into the low-mid 12s with the cam and all the other bolt ons, then slap on some heads and dip into the 11s, I'd be one happy camper.
Originally Posted by Mirek
T1 is a great cam. They stopped making it when I got the C1. Do some searches on it. Somebody just put stock AFR's on top a T1 and pulled 4 something.
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I have the B-1,same on a 114*.I love this cam,the torque peak on the dyno was awesome and flat all the way over.I entertain going FMS 11 or 13 but don't want to lose the pull the car has.
#9
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It seems that there has been a great deal of "bigger is always better" and competition to stuff the biggest cam possible in the engine. If you have the heads, intake and exhaust that can handle the flow and want your RPM/Power band in the upper limits for maximum power at the track that may be OK but for many applications, lift and duration that keep the power band lower and provide more low end torque and "power under the curve" is the right choice.
my .02
my .02
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Originally Posted by josh99ta
Wow, I'm surprised by the positive response. Thanks for the encouragement fellas.
Good to know, as that was my plan. Do a little budget setup right now with the cam, headers, intake, and maybe true duals and if I'm wanting a little more power next racing season, slap on a set of GMPP CNC'd heads or some AFR heads to pick up a few more ponies. My goal for the car has ALWAYS been to keep it as streetable as possible and still get an 11 second timeslip. If I could get into the low-mid 12s with the cam and all the other bolt ons, then slap on some heads and dip into the 11s, I'd be one happy camper.
Good to know, as that was my plan. Do a little budget setup right now with the cam, headers, intake, and maybe true duals and if I'm wanting a little more power next racing season, slap on a set of GMPP CNC'd heads or some AFR heads to pick up a few more ponies. My goal for the car has ALWAYS been to keep it as streetable as possible and still get an 11 second timeslip. If I could get into the low-mid 12s with the cam and all the other bolt ons, then slap on some heads and dip into the 11s, I'd be one happy camper.
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I've got the tr-220, which is almost the same except for its at 220 instead of 221.
It's a great street cam, lots of torque. I can still run around in 6th at 1500-2000 rpm and pull out of it.
Go for it!
It's a great street cam, lots of torque. I can still run around in 6th at 1500-2000 rpm and pull out of it.
Go for it!
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I was worried about the low end torque. With my 3200 stall it shouldn't be a big deal anyway but it should compliment the stall nicely I think.
What are you guys shifting at? I've heard it peaks around 6k and most are shifting by 6200 or 6400, just trying to get an idea on where to rev it up to.
And old school lope is nice. I don't need lope that will shake the car, but I do want a little bit of audible lope just to sound good. I'm going to set the idle as low as possible to get a little more thump also. Where are you guys idling at?
What are you guys shifting at? I've heard it peaks around 6k and most are shifting by 6200 or 6400, just trying to get an idea on where to rev it up to.
And old school lope is nice. I don't need lope that will shake the car, but I do want a little bit of audible lope just to sound good. I'm going to set the idle as low as possible to get a little more thump also. Where are you guys idling at?
#14
Your cam will have a cool sounding choppy idle on cold start up but will sound close to stock after engine gets warm. My car idles at 950 with my cam. 224/228@.050, 112 lsa
Lunati states that this cam has a power band of 1700-6600. Your motor will rev every bit of that. But shift at 5800-6000.
Lunati states that this cam has a power band of 1700-6600. Your motor will rev every bit of that. But shift at 5800-6000.
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Originally Posted by fasteddyss
I've got the tr-220, which is almost the same except for its at 220 instead of 221.
It's a great street cam, lots of torque. I can still run around in 6th at 1500-2000 rpm and pull out of it.
Go for it!
It's a great street cam, lots of torque. I can still run around in 6th at 1500-2000 rpm and pull out of it.
Go for it!
#17
Had the T1 on my old Z28 and it did 380 HP 373 Tq thru unmodified Mac mid lengths. I loved that cam and sold it to a buddy. We installed it in his 98 Camaro and is still going strong!
Derek
Derek