New 408 shortblock; oil problems
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Just installed a new 408 over the weekend and have been battling a low oil pressure condition. Pressure varies from almost 0-15 @ idle to around 40 psi @ about 3K rpm. Did not want to keep pushing motor, have not driven car. Get "Check Oil Pressure" warning light on occasion.
Double & triple checked O-Ring connection. Re-used same o-ring but appears to be in good shape. Pick-up tube to oil pump connection is solid and seated flush. Used old ported oil pump then swapped in new LS6 pump. Installed autometer oil pressure gauge to confirm dash gauge. Low pressure continues.
1) Saw a recent post about a rear oil plug. Did not take notice of plug before install. Have email to engine builder, waiting for response.
2) Someone has posted that 10psi/1000rpm is suffucient. Seems very low to me. I am in that range but shouldn't be getting warning lights if it is ok.
3) If motor was built to "race" tolerances, which may mean larger bearing clearances, what kind of pressure range is normal? Still think what I am getting is exceptionally low.
4) How to remedy problem w/ distant engine builder. I can't take vehicle to engine builder for inspection/confirmation. Recommendations?
At this point I've done all I can think of. I re-isntalled the oil system. Double check connections and torque requirements. Confirmed gauge readings. Using 10-30 dino oil.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for any and all help...
Double & triple checked O-Ring connection. Re-used same o-ring but appears to be in good shape. Pick-up tube to oil pump connection is solid and seated flush. Used old ported oil pump then swapped in new LS6 pump. Installed autometer oil pressure gauge to confirm dash gauge. Low pressure continues.
1) Saw a recent post about a rear oil plug. Did not take notice of plug before install. Have email to engine builder, waiting for response.
2) Someone has posted that 10psi/1000rpm is suffucient. Seems very low to me. I am in that range but shouldn't be getting warning lights if it is ok.
3) If motor was built to "race" tolerances, which may mean larger bearing clearances, what kind of pressure range is normal? Still think what I am getting is exceptionally low.
4) How to remedy problem w/ distant engine builder. I can't take vehicle to engine builder for inspection/confirmation. Recommendations?
At this point I've done all I can think of. I re-isntalled the oil system. Double check connections and torque requirements. Confirmed gauge readings. Using 10-30 dino oil.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for any and all help...
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You spent thousands and thousands of dollars and reused an old 5 cent Oring?
Doesnt pass the common sense test.
Just because it "looks good" doesnt mean it is. It could be nicked, it could be distorted from age/heat.
I will paypal you the nickel and the dollars worth of gas to go get a new oring if you are that tight
Doesnt pass the common sense test.
Just because it "looks good" doesnt mean it is. It could be nicked, it could be distorted from age/heat.
I will paypal you the nickel and the dollars worth of gas to go get a new oring if you are that tight
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I was gonna guess bearings as well, need to find someway to have the engine builder check it out or have them pay for you to have it checked out locally. Sucky situation.
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Pewter WS6 - I installed the cam. It was a shortblock build. The cam install was done on the engine stand and without incident but your comment is noted. Thanks.
RSX - No arguement from me. As soon as we had the problem we were wishing we had one gotten a replacement ahead of time. Can be assured that I will be at the parts department to day picking up a few. I really hope it is as simple as the o-ring. I'll know the answer later today. Thanks.
Mike K. - Exactly. Got the block from a sponsor and waiting to hear from them. Just wondering how others have dealt with the situation. Thanks.
RSX - No arguement from me. As soon as we had the problem we were wishing we had one gotten a replacement ahead of time. Can be assured that I will be at the parts department to day picking up a few. I really hope it is as simple as the o-ring. I'll know the answer later today. Thanks.
Mike K. - Exactly. Got the block from a sponsor and waiting to hear from them. Just wondering how others have dealt with the situation. Thanks.
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I scored a cam bearing by accident once while installing a cam and the oil pressure was low and fluxuated. Soon after, it wiped out 2 main bearings and 4 rod bearings. Check your oil for metal shavings. Pull your dip stick and look at it in the sun light. If you see particles shimmering back at you, then you have a major problem.
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Originally Posted by 2001 Pewter WS6
I scored a cam bearing by accident once while installing a cam and the oil pressure was low and fluxuated. Soon after, it wiped out 2 main bearings and 4 rod bearings. Check your oil for metal shavings. Pull your dip stick and look at it in the sun light. If you see particles shimmering back at you, then you have a major problem.
Appreciate the help...
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Originally Posted by IslandTahoe
What kind of particles, if any, would I expect from basic motor break-in and seating of rings, etc vs a scored cam bearing? If I see any metal particles at this point do I have a problem or is some particles expected at initial motor start-up?
Appreciate the help...
Appreciate the help...
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OK, good enough. Need to drop the tranny, take a look at the back of the block for THAT oil plug everyone keeps talking about. Will reinstall a new o-ring just to be sure. More new oil and a start-up.
Need to secure the buddies for the tranny drop first. Will check the oil as described and let you know. Thanks again.
Need to secure the buddies for the tranny drop first. Will check the oil as described and let you know. Thanks again.
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Ok, rear plug was missing. Installed plug and got 50psi a@ idle and 60+psi @ 3000rpm. Now that is the type of oil pressure I was hoping for. Feeling a lot better now.
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and concern appreciate it.
My shortblock install checklist is as follows:
1) new oil pump O-Ring
2) rear oil galley plug
3) crank shaft key (stock one may not fit exactly)
4) new gaskets and seals for all pans
5) new crankshaft bolt (or ARP version)
6) re-threading kit (for cleaning-up threads on bolts, nut & bosses)
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and concern appreciate it.
My shortblock install checklist is as follows:
1) new oil pump O-Ring
2) rear oil galley plug
3) crank shaft key (stock one may not fit exactly)
4) new gaskets and seals for all pans
5) new crankshaft bolt (or ARP version)
6) re-threading kit (for cleaning-up threads on bolts, nut & bosses)