S2 heads and a 228/228 .588/.588 112 lsa. The car won't idle below 1000 RPMs checked the vaccum lines and no leaks. I torqued the intake down to spec so that shouldn't be leaking. I'm curious, if you have your heads milled would that affect your intake seating correctly or cause it to leak? I can't tune the car until I can get it to idle. If anyone could give me a few pointers I would appreciate it.

 

car might not get below that till after tuning maybe? i'd give it some time to see if the PCM "marries up" to the cam a little better.

 

Set the idle to 1001rpms then tune it.

 

The car will not run unless you give it some gas. To me it acts like its got a vaccum leak. This cam should idle somewhat untuned.

 

from my experiences it tough to get any untuned a4 to idle after a cam swap

 

can u get it to hold a steady rpm under 1200? auto will always have a difficult time running on the stock tune.

 

Your stock tune on a 112lsa 228 cam will more than likely not idle at all on an A4.

I do not think you have a vacume leak or anything. You really need to check your IAC's at idle for one. Also do a idle relearn. When you do the relearn it may stall a few times, just keep trying and don't touch the gas.

It is also tougher to get a cold engine to idle.

You may have to set the set screw up a bit to get the idle good. You probably want to idle around 800-850, but concentrate on the tune. Playing with the set screw to much will give you a cruising effect.

 

thats a good point dan almost forgot about reseting the computer to see if it helps any
key on pull pcm fuses
turn off car
put fuses back in
then refire it will die a few times relearning

 

I set idle at 1100 and my IATs were at 228 and went down to 157. I turned the set screw to 2%(using ATAP) and thats what I had to do to get it to idle at all. I had the battery unplugged to do the install, would that not work to reset the ecm?

 

not as much as the fuses being pulled it forces it to relearn. but is it idling now?

 

That is sooooooo true its a real PITA!

 

I had an idle issue, not as severe but an idle issue after the cam and then especially after the headers (a few months later). Lived with it for a while and finally drilled a hole (in my electric t-body) and it ran like a champ, threw no codes. No tune. Put the heads and LS6 Intake on, same thing. Ran pefect. I finally got it tuned a few months after the heads and told them not to touch the idle (850).
Anyway thats what I'd try.

 

Not really, it idled for a little while but it won't do it now. I will try doing the fuse part of it and see if it makes a difference.

 

The idle relearn is crucial. Do you have the stock TB?

 

Yes I have stock TB.

 

That cam will not idle without tuning. Use NoGo's idle tuning guide and drill the TB.

 

Tried NoGo's idle tuning and it still won't idle right. I haven't drilled the TB yet I really don't want to do that yet.

 

I can't tell you how big of a difference just one size up on the TB hole does for a car. My tsp231/237 idles fine, and it's untuned at the moment since i ended up screwing the tune up with hpp3 (trying to change rear gear ratio's) But this car runs/idles better than it did when it was tuned. (undrilled TB VS drilled TB)

 

There's a big difference between unhooking the battery and re-setting the pcm as i've found out first hand. I suggest you reset it if you haven't already.

 

notice I said use NoGo's guide and drill the throttle body. I didn't say to try just one of them!
Next check for bent valves if it still wont idle