bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I tried searching under "Oil Pump" But it only truned up four results on performance Q's... I remembered a Question I had after reading a thread in External LSx Enging about a oil pump replacement after a cam.

I was researching some parts on the SLP website a while ago. I stumbled upon their ported LS1 Oil Pump. Their older description, I can't find it in the new one, had the phrase ...the stock unit is know to fail w/out warning or reason.

This got me thinking. Is this accurate or is this just another one of the SLP Part 'Hypes"? I hope it's not true. WHen do I have to start questioning the integrity of my oil pump? Any advise would help..

Thanx!

DaddySS

There have been quite a few oil pump failures on the 98 - 00s as described. If you want to be extra safe replace it, the SLP pump is a good unit. If you are in there replacing cam, or pulley etc., definitely replace it.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

What pulleys or cams are adaptable to that Pump unit? Or mabie another pump unit. I will be looking into a cam and pullies in the somewhat near future. Any Recomendations? I want somewhat of a lumpy idle but not too bad. I was looking at the SLP pulleys, mostly because they have advertised a Higher wall desigh so the belt won't jump off.

THanx for the heads up on the Pump. I asked this on CZ28 and I didn't get too many helpful responses. What's the problem w/ the stocker anyway?? What is he issue w/ the adaptability? That's on the front of the motor right?

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I took a 98, 99 and 01 apart and they all looked identical. I measured just about everything (ID's, OD's rotor thickness, spring length) and all dimensions were teh same.

The only thing I didn't get to measure was spring pressure between the pumps.

THe earlier pumps had more casting flash which needed to be removed (I ported and polished all three pumps) but other than that I couldn't tell the difference.

Once shimmed, the springs all felt about the same (not that my finger is a spring pressure gauge).

Someone once replied to me that the rotors were made of a different material and would shatter during use, but I haven't read or heard any more about that. I think different springs might have been used. I also fouind out after all of this that the blocks might be the problem.

A magazine article on LS1 engines showed the differnces between the 97-00 and 01+ blocks. The rear view of the block (with the cover removed) shows two little 5/8" holes (which, IIRC, are the same hoes the lifter tools/rods go into) which are connected by a small little groove in teh rear cover.

In 01+ blocks, there is an opening in the block between the two holes, so oil isn't starved.

I've been contemplating opening up the groove in my rear cover to match the gasket, allowing more oil to flow through.

David

BayouVette

Depending on your mileage it could be good insurance. I had a cam installed and didn't change the oil pump. MY car had 65K miles on it.. 3 months later i had a knocking coming from my engine when operating at 2300 or so rpms for about 10 minutes. After a couple weeks of finding the problem it was the o-ring on the back the pump was bad.. i got a TR ported LS6 pump..

Glad i got to it before it caused any damage. Like i said its good insurance.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I've got 23K on the clock now. But still, all this talk about blown oil pumps and shattering impellers is making me nervous. I have a VERY long drive ahead of me an about three weeks. I am going from CT to WI and then from WI to NM.. I should be fine. The only think that should take a huge hit is my wallet..

When I have a cam/pulleys installed I will replace it. I will do it before 40K miles. I don't feel like replacing an engine. especially at 6g's a pop....

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

My (admittedly unscientific) observation from reading this fourm is that as many or more guys report oil pressure problems AFTER installing a new pump because of a pinched o-ring than guys who stick with the stocker.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

If you have 23k i wouldnt worry about it man, even if it does go, its enough for GM to fix it under warrenty that they'll get you a rental, then just pick it up on your way back, i highly doubt it will fail anytime soon, maybe this will comfort you, i cammed my car at 120k, during that swap i added TR's P&P LS6 oil pump, it wasnt much and the piece of mind alone is worth it, but point is that my stock ls1 pump lasted 120k w/no problems, the pressure was well w/in factory specs, but i did gain a little psi w/the new pump, but not much, you should be fine man