ARP Balancer Bolt Removal
09-22-2005, 07:39 AM
#2
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Just getting ready to install the ARP balancer bolt. It calls for "RED" Loctite for installation. How do you remove this sucker later, has anyone done this and if so did you have to use heat?
I have not installed one, BUT I have had to uninstall one that had tons of red loctite on it. Had to put the torch on it to get it out...
Good Luck,
09-22-2005, 09:32 AM
#5
Lesson learned:
I just spoke with Permatex Tech Support. Heat is definitely required. I was told that unless there are corrosion issues, there is no need to coat the entire threaded length and that the last 1/4" of engagement (nearest 1/4" to the end of the threads in the crankshaft) is all that is required. This will aid later disassembly.
Good to know.
I just spoke with Permatex Tech Support. Heat is definitely required. I was told that unless there are corrosion issues, there is no need to coat the entire threaded length and that the last 1/4" of engagement (nearest 1/4" to the end of the threads in the crankshaft) is all that is required. This will aid later disassembly.
Good to know.
09-22-2005, 10:18 AM
#6
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Lesson learned:
I just spoke with Permatex Tech Support. Heat is definitely required. I was told that unless there are corrosion issues, there is no need to coat the entire threaded length and that the last 1/4" of engagement (nearest 1/4" to the end of the threads in the crankshaft) is all that is required. This will aid later disassembly.
Good to know.
I just spoke with Permatex Tech Support. Heat is definitely required. I was told that unless there are corrosion issues, there is no need to coat the entire threaded length and that the last 1/4" of engagement (nearest 1/4" to the end of the threads in the crankshaft) is all that is required. This will aid later disassembly.
Good to know.
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09-22-2005, 11:40 AM
#9
I think it is a combination of two things. I have the ATI damper that I am installing. It is very precise on the required interference fit, 0.0007-0.0009 inches of interference. It is the interference fit that should keep the hub from rotating on the crankshaft. (I have also pinned the crank.) I think with the correct interference fit, the damper should not spin (pinned or not) and there is no need for Loctite on the bolt as the bolt should not be loaded in torsion.
Problem may be the stock unit, once removed, no longer has the correct interference and for that reason may not be re-useable (my logic anyhow). The stock unit also has an aluminum hub, whose heat expansion characteristics are different than the crank, which may also play into this.
Guess I want to put this out there for those guys who are using the Red Loctite, you may have a problem later with disassembly.
Problem may be the stock unit, once removed, no longer has the correct interference and for that reason may not be re-useable (my logic anyhow). The stock unit also has an aluminum hub, whose heat expansion characteristics are different than the crank, which may also play into this.
Guess I want to put this out there for those guys who are using the Red Loctite, you may have a problem later with disassembly.
09-22-2005, 12:11 PM
#10
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OK, I used a regular GM bolt on mine with the little bit of factory applied loctite. What I did was crank that sucker to about 110-115 degrees (spec is 140), then took a paint pen and drew a line on the bolt head and onto the balancer so that I could glance at in once in a while to see if its loosening.
Now, for your bolt I would not use red loctite, just teh blue stuff.
Now, for your bolt I would not use red loctite, just teh blue stuff.
