Piston #7 died check out these pix!
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Well after pulling apart my motor to see just wtf was up on piston 7 with an 85% leak down test i came to find this
I was having p-v issuses on all 8 intake valves (they all looked just like this)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/kissedvalve.jpg)
Here is what the major problem is and i cannot figure out just y it happened.
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/broken_ringland_3.jpg)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/broken_ringland_2.jpg)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/broken_ringland.jpg)
When we pulled out 7 and began to see what was broken, we did not notice to much. The rings were intact and no noticable cracks or breaks in the piston other than where the valve kissed the piston. So when we pulled the rings (which were completely intact) the 2nd ringland just fell apart in our hands...im stumped as to why it would break like this and not destroy the rings...my guess is this was a factory defect and when i pushed on it, it gave way, tell me what u guys think
-Ryan
I was having p-v issuses on all 8 intake valves (they all looked just like this)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/kissedvalve.jpg)
Here is what the major problem is and i cannot figure out just y it happened.
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/broken_ringland_3.jpg)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/broken_ringland_2.jpg)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/VaNDaLL346/Broken%20piston/broken_ringland.jpg)
When we pulled out 7 and began to see what was broken, we did not notice to much. The rings were intact and no noticable cracks or breaks in the piston other than where the valve kissed the piston. So when we pulled the rings (which were completely intact) the 2nd ringland just fell apart in our hands...im stumped as to why it would break like this and not destroy the rings...my guess is this was a factory defect and when i pushed on it, it gave way, tell me what u guys think
-Ryan
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The pictures are all way too fuzzy to make out anything, but 'second ring land' failure (i.e., the land below the first ring) is often due to detonation. It pounds the top ring so hard that it in turn breaks its supporting land.
Re 'valve into piston': 1. Intake or exhaust? 2. How do the other 7 look re contact? 3. How's the spring tension on the valve that hit? 4. Any tuliping of the intake valves (i.e., look like they've softened and been pulled part way into the ports) 5. Are any of the rings shiny on the gap faces? 6. Any major discolouration/blackening of the undersides of the pistons?
Re 'valve into piston': 1. Intake or exhaust? 2. How do the other 7 look re contact? 3. How's the spring tension on the valve that hit? 4. Any tuliping of the intake valves (i.e., look like they've softened and been pulled part way into the ports) 5. Are any of the rings shiny on the gap faces? 6. Any major discolouration/blackening of the undersides of the pistons?
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Originally Posted by VaNDaL*SS*
heads are milled ~.030 but i was advised that this setup would have no problems from MTI, turns out its the oppisite ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
From the picture it looks to me like it may have overheated at least on that cylinder... pic is fuzzy though. I'm sure the P/V contact had nothing to do with the piston failure in this case.
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Originally Posted by MadBill
The pictures are all way too fuzzy to make out anything, but 'second ring land' failure (i.e., the land below the first ring) is often due to detonation. It pounds the top ring so hard that it in turn breaks its supporting land.
Re 'valve into piston': 1. Intake or exhaust? 2. How do the other 7 look re contact? 3. How's the spring tension on the valve that hit? 4. Any tuliping of the intake valves (i.e., look like they've softened and been pulled part way into the ports) 5. Are any of the rings shiny on the gap faces? 6. Any major discolouration/blackening of the undersides of the pistons?
Re 'valve into piston': 1. Intake or exhaust? 2. How do the other 7 look re contact? 3. How's the spring tension on the valve that hit? 4. Any tuliping of the intake valves (i.e., look like they've softened and been pulled part way into the ports) 5. Are any of the rings shiny on the gap faces? 6. Any major discolouration/blackening of the undersides of the pistons?
2. All other 7 look almost exactly the same.
3. Not sure
4. When I looked at them on saturday I did not notice this nor did my uncle (he is doing my rebuild)
5. I believe on the #7 piston (which is the one that let go) from what i remember shows somewhat of a polished look to it, but do not qoute me on that, i will have to look when i head up there again this weekend.
6. I do not remember at all another thing to look at when I head up there agian.
Originally Posted by Rick@Synergy
What do the plugs look like?
Rick
Rick
Sorry about the pix guys it was on my camera phone. When i go back i will get better pix for sure. Is there anything else I should look for?
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Damn dude that sucks. I was really looking forward to see your car run on the street. So many problems man. Hope it all works out for you. Isnt this the third rebuild?
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Originally Posted by VaNDaL*SS*
heads are milled ~.030 but i was advised that this setup would have no problems from MTI, turns out its the oppisite ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
#15
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#7 failure is very common in boosted applications, especially when used with stock bottom end... In fact, when piston failure is involved, it's almost always this one first. (again, boosted apps)
All research (FI) seems to indicate that the number 7 cylinder seems to run leaner than the rest. I have seen it blamed on the intake design; #s 7 and 8 get more air, so they run leaner... This fact alone leads to a situation which facilitates detonation.... You could get your injectors flowed and put the highest flowing units on #7 and 8 in the future.
All research (FI) seems to indicate that the number 7 cylinder seems to run leaner than the rest. I have seen it blamed on the intake design; #s 7 and 8 get more air, so they run leaner... This fact alone leads to a situation which facilitates detonation.... You could get your injectors flowed and put the highest flowing units on #7 and 8 in the future.
Last edited by Frost; 12-07-2005 at 12:22 PM.
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Originally Posted by LIL SS
The WOT tune was done by me and is very safe.. 12.2-1ish AF and 28* timing. Watching every pull with EFI live there was 0 KR.
what type of dyno? The 28* is pretty high if you ask me. And where were you meassuring the AFR at?
Rick
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Dynojet.. Not sure on the exact model.
Ryan's car has dual electric cut outs just after the header collectors and in front of the cats. The wideband was put in the cut outs so basically in the header collector.
I see nothing wrong with the 28* timing. I've seen several different tuners run from 27-29* and they aren't back yard guys either. What do you typically run for timing Rick?
BTW, here is his dyno post.. https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/368371-finally-got-my-setup-tuned-dyno-d.html
Ryan's car has dual electric cut outs just after the header collectors and in front of the cats. The wideband was put in the cut outs so basically in the header collector.
I see nothing wrong with the 28* timing. I've seen several different tuners run from 27-29* and they aren't back yard guys either. What do you typically run for timing Rick?
BTW, here is his dyno post.. https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/368371-finally-got-my-setup-tuned-dyno-d.html
Last edited by LIL SS; 12-08-2005 at 05:32 PM.