Bad Rings...?
#2
Damn if I know bro., but maybe you can tell me do you have to pull the crank to change rings?? Its just that I thought I read someware that you could change them just pulling the heads? I know I know I dont see how It would be possible either, but........
#3
Its not likely. What are your symptoms? Chances are you didnt install new valve seals with your springs or you didnt push the new ones on correctly until you feel them snap into place.
#5
the smoke is light blue/white, i have changed the seals. twice now in fact, the first time i was unaware that they snapped down so i had a big oil leak, i replaced them and i thought i snapped them down but the car has never stopped smoking since the cam. the car has 30000 actual miles on it and maybe 3500 on the cam, so I didnt think the rings would be bad but im rackin my brain here. by the way its the f15 if it makes a difference
#7
Originally Posted by vetred
Damn if I know bro., but maybe you can tell me do you have to pull the crank to change rings?? Its just that I thought I read someware that you could change them just pulling the heads? I know I know I dont see how It would be possible either, but........
Pull the engine out of the vehicle, remove the heads, remove the oil pan, remove the pistons and connecting rods together out the top. No reason to remove crank.
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#8
Originally Posted by HeapaShifter
You don't pull the crank to change rings.
Pull the engine out of the vehicle, remove the heads, remove the oil pan, remove the pistons and connecting rods together out the top. No reason to remove crank.
Pull the engine out of the vehicle, remove the heads, remove the oil pan, remove the pistons and connecting rods together out the top. No reason to remove crank.
Thank you heapashifter
#10
If the car has only been smoking since the cam install, the rings are probably fine. It is possible that during the swap, you may gotten some oil down in the cylinders, and it's just taking it awhile for all of it to burn. The other side would be if some debris happened to find its way into the cylinder walls, it could have scratched up the walls or a ring.
Both of these are far fetched but possible since the car is only smoking since the cam swap.
Jason
Both of these are far fetched but possible since the car is only smoking since the cam swap.
Jason
#11
well i guess what im gonna end up doing is replacing the valve seals one more time, anyone have a preference on brand, and any special techniques to make sure they seat down nicely...
as usual thanks for all the help guys.
as usual thanks for all the help guys.
#12
if it helps you at all I have some startup smoking. 49k on the car and it NEVER used a drop of oil.. 0w30 gc. Just completed h/c swap - could it now be the PCV? **** in the combustion chamber? The fact that the intake/exhaust valves are open at the same time for a split second causing a cough? No idea. There seems to be a lot of this going around after h/c swaps.
FWIW I had all the work done by East Side Performance so I'm assuming their work is top notch. I'll bring it in the shop tomorrow to have em' check it out and post up their response.
FWIW I had all the work done by East Side Performance so I'm assuming their work is top notch. I'll bring it in the shop tomorrow to have em' check it out and post up their response.
#14
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
Can valve seals be changed with the heads still installed on the car (like at the time of a spring/cam change)?
Tony, I never felt my valve seals 'click' on. Ls1howto says to just tap them on, and they might not touch the spring seat at all (00 car). I didn't feel really good about doing the seals because there didn't seem to be a definitive stopping point for each, the gap seemed different for each one. I guess I did it right though because it doesn't smoke any, so I dunno.
#17
Originally Posted by keliente
Tony, I never felt my valve seals 'click' on. Ls1howto says to just tap them on, and they might not touch the spring seat at all (00 car). I didn't feel really good about doing the seals because there didn't seem to be a definitive stopping point for each, the gap seemed different for each one. I guess I did it right though because it doesn't smoke any, so I dunno.
If you tap them on, you kind of have to listen to the sound when they hit home. Itll be more of a thud. Its not terribly difficult to tap them on, and on many heads the actual valveguide can vary in height. If youve seen a head minus the valves, the guides on the bowl side are sometimes pushed in different lengths. I dont think it varies more than .050 or so. If the seals were tapped on enough, they probably wont come off even if they wern't seated all the way on. However Ive had a few friends tap them on only to pull the valvecovers and see the seals riding the top of the valves. Usually oil consumption is what tips them off.
The 01+ cars came with integrated valve seals / seats so they touch the bottom, but if you run aftermarket springs, you need to use the old style seals, which of course will not touch the seat.
Hope that clears things up.
And Kelly, Id pull your valvecover and take a quick look next time you find yourself in the area. I mean, it dosnt take but a few minutes to pull the valvecovers Besides, you do more wrenching that I do!
#18
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
Can valve seals be changed with the heads still installed on the car (like at the time of a spring/cam change)?