Gannet

Looking for some ideas for cams with great off-idle power, and then more as you go up, peaking relatively early at 5800-6000. This will be for a 6-speed '02 Corvette coupe with Z06 exhaust, otherwise pretty much stock. Although I will run it on 93 locally, I want it to be able to run on 91 on a road trip if needed. Idle quality is not important, and it doesn't need to pass emissions. Annual spring maintenance is not a problem. I may add AFR 205s later. Otherwise I want as much torque, throttle response, and horsepower as I can get within those parameters. Must have great power and response under 2000.

There's the Thunder Racing Old Man Cam and CheaTR, and I also considered an LS6 cam with rockers., although high-lift rockers get expensive in a hurry. Other suggestions? It seems like most of the sub-224 cams are pretty short on lift, the TR pieces excepted. Your thoughts appreciated.

Gannet

Anybody? Or are these little cams just too boring for folks?

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

f13 or f11 is best all around or the new tq'er 2 cam from tsp

SideStep

I have had an F13 (112+4) and you are going to give up power under 2000rpm that is all there is to it. I have to ask why such a low rpm number requirement???

Just in case it matters I made 350rwtq (sae) at 2400 with my F13 and all the other mods in my sig...

F13 (112+4) and AFR205s (62cc) NO FAST

Gannet

Because that's where I drive. It's a street car, not a race car or even a "street/strip" car. I use the overdrive gears a lot and am rarely cruising over 2000. I want power now when I step on the gas, not after downshifting or waiting around for it to get on the cam. I want it "on the cam" all the time. If that means I leave some high RPM power lying on the table (and it does), that's fine. Basically what I want is a stock powerband, just more of it.

Maybe I got spoiled on big-blocks when I was a kid...

I'm willing to compromise on valvetrain durability over what the factory could accept, and perhaps take another 10 degrees or so duration over stock, but I think more than that will lose too much under 2000. But I'm no expert, which is why I'm askin'.

Thanks for the replies so far.

4mula

lpe gt 2-3

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Maybe something like a 220/224 on a 110 will work for you.
To be honest, I would just backshift.

Steve Gunn

old man or TR220

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Want torque with stock manifolds...check out my cam

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=440051&page=2

Quik

iTrader: (7)

you want my cam im thinking of selling its the GT2-5
222/222 .566/.566 112lsa

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I just ordered a 224/228 grind from ThunderRacing. Its the cam Patrick G is running. Needs some good valvesprings though as it has a lot of lift and very quick ramp rates. .633/.639" lift or somewhere around there. 110* LSA. I'm hoping for close to what you're asking. I want my power to kick in around 2000RPM or a bit lower and make power to 6000-6200RPM. 6500ish if need be.

Patrick says it makes killer low end torque and doesn't lose much compared to his CompCams 234/238 grind that he had in there.

Gannet

Thanks for the pointer to that thread. I had seen it before, but just re-read it a couple of times. It seems entirely on-point.

So you went with this? 210/222 112 110 .595/.581

I'm rusty, that notation is 112 LSA and 110 ICL, right? How are you guys getting all the numbers to calculate the actual timing events?

Comparing that cam to a TR Old Man, it's a bit shorter on intake, longer on exhaust, and narrower. Out of curiousity, why did you go narrower?

DavidNJ

Whoa!

The key to low rpm use is going to be limited overlap and keeping the IVC in check. If you are willing to do valve spring maintenance, what you are looking at is an aggressive cam with modest seat timing.

Something like the Thunder Racing CheaTR (XER lobes, 214/230 with 117lsa) or a custom with an LSK intake lobe and maybe a little less exhaust.

In any case you will new valve springs and check piston to valve clearance. The small intake and big LSA should allow out to get by without notching the pistons.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Check out Vinci's cams - they're a sponsor ----------->
Or the Comp 212/218 would also fit your powerband goals, but has very modest lobes.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

That is correct. The numbers come from Comp's catalog. I just put them into an Excel spreadsheet that does the math.
I went narrow LSA because it gives an early IVC without requiring a lot of advance and makes the midrange a bit peakier. The extra exhaust was to help deal with the stock manifolds. I probably could have used a 224 lobe too, but I wasn't as agressive as I could have gone.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

You wont notice much low end loss at all with something like the tr224 or the tsp 224r

My old xe 224 cam I had didnt give up anything down low that I could notice.
And xe-r lobes have a stronger low end than the xe lobes.

Go with a 224 and call it a day.

4mula

i have to agree with above.
i have the 224 581 114 lsa cam and could not be more happy.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

It seems to me the 224 cam advice is misguided. He wants a cam with a solid bottom end and a peak of no more than 6000 rpm. A 224/224 114 will not achieve those goals, especially on car that has a stock exhaust.

VORTECFCAR

iTrader: (2)

CheaTR cam on LSK lobes? I'd really like to see how well this cam would run!

DO IT!