How much will LS6 01 Cam add?? Its only $175 so...
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If the LS6 Cam adds 20hp and it is $175...then thats less than $9 per hp. Thats pretty good... will it add around 20hp?
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I have yet to see an LS6 cam swapped out and redynoed in an f-body. I wouldn't necessarily look for 20 RWHP. I have seen it add 26 RWHP at peak on a '00 Silverado, though. I'm referring to the '01 cam. BTW, don't forget to factor in the new springs. Retail on them is $8/ea. last time I checked.
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave Carney:
<strong>It's worth about 8 to 10hp.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Would that be in a 98-00 or a 01-02? Just curious. I would assume the 01-02's would gain more than 8-10.
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<strong>It's worth about 8 to 10hp.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Would that be in a 98-00 or a 01-02? Just curious. I would assume the 01-02's would gain more than 8-10.
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Wouldn't the '02 LS6 cam be a better choice? I don't know how much they cost but they are suppose to better than the '01's.
Just a thought <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
Just a thought <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
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[quote]Originally posted by The Dragon:
<strong>Wouldn't the '02 LS6 cam be a better choice? I don't know how much they cost but they are suppose to better than the '01's.
Just a thought <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Yeah it's only another $640 for the lightweight valves that you need to make it work.
<strong>Wouldn't the '02 LS6 cam be a better choice? I don't know how much they cost but they are suppose to better than the '01's.
Just a thought <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Yeah it's only another $640 for the lightweight valves that you need to make it work.
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave Carney:
<strong>
Yeah it's only another $640 for the lightweight valves that you need to make it work.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Screw that jazz.
I'd go for a bigger, better after-market cam anyway. But I know some people like to stay with GM products . . . oh well! <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
<strong>
Yeah it's only another $640 for the lightweight valves that you need to make it work.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Screw that jazz.
I'd go for a bigger, better after-market cam anyway. But I know some people like to stay with GM products . . . oh well! <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
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you dont need the sodium filled valves to make the cam work. you just have to make sure you have some good springs installed when you put the cam in.
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Will the LS6 springs work with the stock valves and the LS6 cam? I have a friend wanting to go with that setup.
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[quote]Originally posted by andy98Z:
<strong>8-10 Is way worth it if you only spend $175. A mass air sensor ($300) only adds about that.</strong><hr></blockquote>
a MAF only takes 5 minutes to install, too...
<strong>8-10 Is way worth it if you only spend $175. A mass air sensor ($300) only adds about that.</strong><hr></blockquote>
a MAF only takes 5 minutes to install, too...
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[quote]Originally posted by Bad Habit Bird:
<strong>you dont need the sodium filled valves to make the cam work. you just have to make sure you have some good springs installed when you put the cam in.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...
There is a pretty good article from one of the GM designers that addresses this very thing, in one of the 4 car magazines I get, I think its GMHTP.
<strong>you dont need the sodium filled valves to make the cam work. you just have to make sure you have some good springs installed when you put the cam in.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...
There is a pretty good article from one of the GM designers that addresses this very thing, in one of the 4 car magazines I get, I think its GMHTP.
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave Carney:
<strong>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...
There is a pretty good article from one of the GM designers that addresses this very thing, in one of the 4 car magazines I get, I think its GMHTP.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Exactly.
<strong>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...
There is a pretty good article from one of the GM designers that addresses this very thing, in one of the 4 car magazines I get, I think its GMHTP.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Exactly.
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave Carney:
<strong>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Why couldn't you use longer pushrods with stock valves instead of longer valves. It seems to me that with the right size pushrod, the valvetrain geometry would be very similar to a cam with .550 lift, and stock sized base circle running with stock sized pushrods.
Why do we never hear anyone say "I'm going to mill my heads .030" and get some special SHORT valves to compensate"??? It seems most people shim the rocker arms and/or adjust pushrod length.
I don't know the answers, just asking for a better explanation. Maybe there's more than one way to skin a cat...
Thanks for any input.
<strong>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Why couldn't you use longer pushrods with stock valves instead of longer valves. It seems to me that with the right size pushrod, the valvetrain geometry would be very similar to a cam with .550 lift, and stock sized base circle running with stock sized pushrods.
Why do we never hear anyone say "I'm going to mill my heads .030" and get some special SHORT valves to compensate"??? It seems most people shim the rocker arms and/or adjust pushrod length.
I don't know the answers, just asking for a better explanation. Maybe there's more than one way to skin a cat...
Thanks for any input.
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave Carney:
<strong>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...
There is a pretty good article from one of the GM designers that addresses this very thing, in one of the 4 car magazines I get, I think its GMHTP.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I agree with Dave. Read the article before you decide on this. It's in GMHTP like Dave said.
<strong>
Well the base circle is smaller, the lighter valves are longer to compensate, you're geometry would be wrong. I'd give it 4000 miles before that set up just rattled itself into a big expense...
There is a pretty good article from one of the GM designers that addresses this very thing, in one of the 4 car magazines I get, I think its GMHTP.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I agree with Dave. Read the article before you decide on this. It's in GMHTP like Dave said.