New cam, car keeps dying?
01-02-2007, 11:01 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
New cam, car keeps dying? I recently plugged in what I am about 90% sure is the GM Hotcam in my girlfriends 99 TA (we got it for free from a good friend who went bigger). She also has a Lid, Magnaflow with a cut-out, the 3.23 stock rear, stock stall, and basically all the LS1 "free mods". My question is, with 112* LSA on stock tune, is the car supposed to keep dying going into gear (reverse and drive). Its automatic and the cam specs should be 219/228 .525 112 LSA. Small cam, I know, but it idles mean as hell.
She has driven it about 100 miles since the install and all the rockers are tight and timing is perfect. Does the ECU need more time driven to learn out the cam? Would it be I need to drill the throttle body a little, or is it because shes running a factory stall? From what I know idling as low as she is (about 600 rpm in drive) can strain the trans and torque convertor a lot. Im not to sure, I know more about LT1s, Im kinda new to LS1 F Bodies. I appreciate any help! Thanks!
She has driven it about 100 miles since the install and all the rockers are tight and timing is perfect. Does the ECU need more time driven to learn out the cam? Would it be I need to drill the throttle body a little, or is it because shes running a factory stall? From what I know idling as low as she is (about 600 rpm in drive) can strain the trans and torque convertor a lot. Im not to sure, I know more about LT1s, Im kinda new to LS1 F Bodies. I appreciate any help! Thanks!
01-02-2007, 11:31 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by FiredUpZ28
I recently plugged in what I am about 90% sure is the GM Hotcam in my girlfriends 99 TA (we got it for free from a good friend who went bigger). She also has a Lid, Magnaflow with a cut-out, the 3.23 stock rear, stock stall, and basically all the LS1 "free mods". My question is, with 112* LSA on stock tune, is the car supposed to keep dying going into gear (reverse and drive). Its automatic and the cam specs should be 219/228 .525 112 LSA. Small cam, I know, but it idles mean as hell.
She has driven it about 100 miles since the install and all the rockers are tight and timing is perfect. Does the ECU need more time driven to learn out the cam? Would it be I need to drill the throttle body a little, or is it because shes running a factory stall? From what I know idling as low as she is (about 600 rpm in drive) can strain the trans and torque convertor a lot. Im not to sure, I know more about LT1s, Im kinda new to LS1 F Bodies. I appreciate any help! Thanks!
She has driven it about 100 miles since the install and all the rockers are tight and timing is perfect. Does the ECU need more time driven to learn out the cam? Would it be I need to drill the throttle body a little, or is it because shes running a factory stall? From what I know idling as low as she is (about 600 rpm in drive) can strain the trans and torque convertor a lot. Im not to sure, I know more about LT1s, Im kinda new to LS1 F Bodies. I appreciate any help! Thanks!
01-03-2007, 09:56 AM
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
uhmm.. 
what is a TPS re learn exactly?
We know a girl that can get us a decently cheap (in price) dyno tune and I think free re-flashes. And were gonna go with a 3000 stall for starters, I think it will pair well with the 3.23 gears.
what is a TPS re learn exactly?We know a girl that can get us a decently cheap (in price) dyno tune and I think free re-flashes. And were gonna go with a 3000 stall for starters, I think it will pair well with the 3.23 gears.
01-03-2007, 10:12 AM
#7
TECH Senior Member
OK,
1- ignition off
2- increase TB blade opening via idle screw (no more than 1 full turn at a time)
3- unhook TPS plug
4- ignition on (but do not crank motor)
5- wait 30 sec
6- ignition off again
7- plug TPS back
8- Start motor and let it find warm idle
If that is not enough, then repeat.
Trick is to do it many time with little increaments
1- ignition off
2- increase TB blade opening via idle screw (no more than 1 full turn at a time)
3- unhook TPS plug
4- ignition on (but do not crank motor)
5- wait 30 sec
6- ignition off again
7- plug TPS back
8- Start motor and let it find warm idle
If that is not enough, then repeat.
Trick is to do it many time with little increaments
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01-03-2007, 11:06 AM
#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot! You dont know what kind of screw the idle screw is do you? Im going to her work to correct it a little because it died on her a few times on the way there, once as she was coasting into the parking lot. I keep telling her to expect it to die a few times until we get it tuned but, oh well. Anyways Im going there so I want to make sure I bring the right tool. Is it a flathead like most idle screws?
01-03-2007, 12:17 PM
#10
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by FiredUpZ28
Thanks a lot! You dont know what kind of screw the idle screw is do you? Im going to her work to correct it a little because it died on her a few times on the way there, once as she was coasting into the parking lot. I keep telling her to expect it to die a few times until we get it tuned but, oh well. Anyways Im going there so I want to make sure I bring the right tool. Is it a flathead like most idle screws?
It can only be reached with allen wrench from below (PIA). (I reversed mine so I can reach it from top).
Just remember 2 (1/2 turn) at a time. (1 full turn of screw). If you open it too much, it will get a cruising effect, not to panic, just decrease it a little and repeat process above.
01-04-2007, 10:23 AM
#11
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Ok I took care of it yesterday, yes getting to the screw was a bitch and a half. Cant I just turn the idle up without unplugging the TPS? Or will it have some negative affect on the computer.
01-04-2007, 10:55 AM
#13
You really gotta retune. I remember when we put my first h/c package on, we only had time to get the driving tune right. Not the WOT. So my tuner made me promise to not go WOT and not open the cutout, because it would go WAY lean when we were logging. The cutout made it go a full point leaner on it own.
01-04-2007, 05:08 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
I put the plate back on it seems to run not only smoother but I nailed it only to 5k down the street and there is a bigger abundance of torque down low. Maybe its just me. Oh, and since i bumped up the idle it idles around 1400 in park but kicks down to 700 in drive. Torque convertor? Im thinkin with the new cam, the stock convertor doesn't want to handle the driveline shock going into gear on factory idle. Make sense? Im just speculating at this point, using my general auto knowledge, lol.
