What oil to use on my new ws6?
07-17-2002, 03:41 PM
#4
TECH Senior Member
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? Go with 10w30, those other two viscosities end up using too much VI improvers, and the oil will end up shearing back quicker (thinning out)
Which oil to use depends on your budget. Here are a few I recommend:
Schaeffers #703 (10w30 blend with moly)
Redline 10w30 (also contains moly)
Amsoil 10w30
Mobil 1 10w30 (only the TriSynthetic if you can find it, the new SuperSyn stuff is still questionable)
If you don't want to use synthetic, a dino oil I highly recommend is Havoline (or Chevron Supreme, they are the same oil) also in 10w30.
Which oil to use depends on your budget. Here are a few I recommend:
Schaeffers #703 (10w30 blend with moly)
Redline 10w30 (also contains moly)
Amsoil 10w30
Mobil 1 10w30 (only the TriSynthetic if you can find it, the new SuperSyn stuff is still questionable)
If you don't want to use synthetic, a dino oil I highly recommend is Havoline (or Chevron Supreme, they are the same oil) also in 10w30.
07-17-2002, 04:18 PM
#5
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? Even with more VI improvers 10W40 will not shearback to the point of a 10W30. 10W40 would be my choice. Also, if you change oils every 3000 miles or so you won't have to worry very much about a good oil breaking down. Royal Purple, AMSoil and Redline are all good oils.
<small>[ July 17, 2002, 04:20 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
<small>[ July 17, 2002, 04:20 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
07-17-2002, 05:19 PM
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Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? the only oil my LS1 sees is redline 10-30. it costs a few bucks more than the rest, but in my opinion you get what you pay for and pay for what you get. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
07-17-2002, 06:40 PM
#7
TECH Senior Member
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by StevieZ:
<strong>Even with more VI improvers 10W40 will not shearback to the point of a 10W30. 10W40 would be my choice. Also, if you change oils every 3000 miles or so you won't have to worry very much about a good oil breaking down. Royal Purple, AMSoil and Redline are all good oils.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you change every 3k, that's true, the 10w40 wouldn't break down too much, however stretch it a little further and it will. Looking over the specs for 10w40 Castrol Syntec, it's on the thin side of a 10w40, so it would easily shear back to a 10w30, although it would be on the high end.
Amsoil's 10w30 is on the high end of a 30wt, and is almost a 10w40, and I know Amsoil holds it's viscosity very well. Same with Redline, and it too is on the high end of a 30wt.
If someone really wants a thicker oil though, I'd have to recommend a 15w40 instead of a 10w40. In the summer that oil will still flow fast, and will have even less VI improvers in it. I believe Redline makes a 15w40, and I know Schaeffers does too. I've seen oil analysis results where Schaeffers 15w40 has gone 22k and is still holding strong too!
<strong>Even with more VI improvers 10W40 will not shearback to the point of a 10W30. 10W40 would be my choice. Also, if you change oils every 3000 miles or so you won't have to worry very much about a good oil breaking down. Royal Purple, AMSoil and Redline are all good oils.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you change every 3k, that's true, the 10w40 wouldn't break down too much, however stretch it a little further and it will. Looking over the specs for 10w40 Castrol Syntec, it's on the thin side of a 10w40, so it would easily shear back to a 10w30, although it would be on the high end.
Amsoil's 10w30 is on the high end of a 30wt, and is almost a 10w40, and I know Amsoil holds it's viscosity very well. Same with Redline, and it too is on the high end of a 30wt.
If someone really wants a thicker oil though, I'd have to recommend a 15w40 instead of a 10w40. In the summer that oil will still flow fast, and will have even less VI improvers in it. I believe Redline makes a 15w40, and I know Schaeffers does too. I've seen oil analysis results where Schaeffers 15w40 has gone 22k and is still holding strong too!
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07-17-2002, 10:27 PM
#8
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? I put some Castrol GTX 5w-30 in for now. I'm just basically flushing out the metal shavings from break in. Next I think I will be using Mobil 1, I'll have to watch and see how this new supersynth is.
07-17-2002, 10:52 PM
#9
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've seen oil analysis results where Schaeffers 15w40 has gone 22k and is still holding strong too! </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Anyone who is going to leave oil in a high performance motor for that long needs to have their head examined! Think of it! We spend all kinds of money on our cars with bolt ons, cams and ported heads etc. What is the sense of trying to make a $40 premium oil change last longer?? I for one will always change my oil at 3k miles.
07-18-2002, 12:47 AM
#10
What oil to use on my new ws6? I have about 1500 miles on her and im taking her in for an oil change and a sticker today. What should I use for oil? Castrol maybe? 5w-30 or 10w-40 ? I live in New Hampshire so I'm thnking about going with the 5w-30. Mobil 1 has a new synthetic out but im not sure I can use synthetic yet. Any help would be great! I'm gonna go do this in like an hour.
07-18-2002, 04:32 AM
#11
TECH Senior Member
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? I agree, in a high performance car that is too long, in this case it was in a Ford truck. But it does show the durability of this oil. It makes no sense to just automatically do all oil changes at 3k, that is simply a number the oil companies like because it makes them money. A good oil will easily go double or triple that. If my oil analysis results come back ok, I am planning on 9k oil intervals. Why drain it out if oil analysis shows it's still doing it's job?
07-18-2002, 06:05 AM
#12
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? I suppose you clean your K&N every 50K?? I can afford to spend $120 for 3 to 4 oils changes every season and will continue to do so. I also change tranny oil(m6)and diff oil once a season. There is no sense on skimping on fluids. They are the blood of your car!
07-18-2002, 09:17 AM
#13
TECH Senior Member
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? Actually, I don't use a K&N, I'd rather not have the extra dirt getting into my engine for the sake of 1hp.
It's not that I'm cheap, I just don't see the need to change a fluid out when it's not finished doing it's job. I like changing my oil, but crawling under it every 3k means every 10 weeks, 5 times a year. Why do it that often when I could cut that time by a third? Especially when I'm changing oil in two cars at my household.
It's not that I'm cheap, I just don't see the need to change a fluid out when it's not finished doing it's job. I like changing my oil, but crawling under it every 3k means every 10 weeks, 5 times a year. Why do it that often when I could cut that time by a third? Especially when I'm changing oil in two cars at my household.
07-18-2002, 01:34 PM
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Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? StevieZ,
What you're saying makes sense since its simply in the best interest of your vehicle, which I don't think anyone here will argue with you about. The problem is that the whole 3000 mile rule of thumb is really just a product of the advertising rhetoric that oil companies have been feeding us for years. Extended drain intervals are no gimmick nor are they "cheap" alternatives. The fundamental truth is that oil will break down differently under different circumstances. No catchall like "3 months/3000 miles" will encompass all driving conditions. The only way to know conclusively how your oil is holding up is to do analyses. Otherwise you might as well just throw the money away. Imagine if tire manufacturers began saying that you need to replace your tires every 2 years or 24000 miles regardless of conditions. Doesn't that sound silly? It's a decent analogy. Remember the oil industry is there to make money -they could care less about our individual needs if it doesn't translate into $$.
This is nothing new either. The military, fleet services, aircraft operators, et al., have been doing oil analysis for years to reduce the cost of fleet maintenance and prevent expensive repairs and breakdowns before they happen. It's only been over the last several years that this type of analysis has been picked up by the mainstream.
Even GM is now endorsing extended drain intervals after years of waffling. Check out the specified drain interval on a new C5.
What you're saying makes sense since its simply in the best interest of your vehicle, which I don't think anyone here will argue with you about. The problem is that the whole 3000 mile rule of thumb is really just a product of the advertising rhetoric that oil companies have been feeding us for years. Extended drain intervals are no gimmick nor are they "cheap" alternatives. The fundamental truth is that oil will break down differently under different circumstances. No catchall like "3 months/3000 miles" will encompass all driving conditions. The only way to know conclusively how your oil is holding up is to do analyses. Otherwise you might as well just throw the money away. Imagine if tire manufacturers began saying that you need to replace your tires every 2 years or 24000 miles regardless of conditions. Doesn't that sound silly? It's a decent analogy. Remember the oil industry is there to make money -they could care less about our individual needs if it doesn't translate into $$.
This is nothing new either. The military, fleet services, aircraft operators, et al., have been doing oil analysis for years to reduce the cost of fleet maintenance and prevent expensive repairs and breakdowns before they happen. It's only been over the last several years that this type of analysis has been picked up by the mainstream.
Even GM is now endorsing extended drain intervals after years of waffling. Check out the specified drain interval on a new C5.
07-18-2002, 02:15 PM
#15
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? Fulton 1 .I think you are missing the point. It is not the oil I am worried about, it is the crap floating around WITHIN the oil that concerns me. If you drive your car as hard as I do, then there is definitely going to be some metal sludge on your magnetic drainplug. (when is the last time you pulled the plug and saw it clean as a whistle?) The plug along with the filter do a good job of cleaning your oil but by no means do they rid the oil of ALL the contaminates and metal which acumulate after a few thousand miles of hard driving. I would sooner spend the money on oil and get longer bearing life than rebuilding sooner. It may be a fanatical point of view but it works! I have had the same oil change in my Mazda for 10K miles now but in my Z, which sees track use and spirited driving on the street, I will still change every 3K to 3.5K miles no matter how long the manufacturers suggest.
Patman: I never meant to insinuate that you are cheap. What I said was that I can afford to, so I do.PS: I LOVE spending time under my car.
<small>[ July 18, 2002, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
Patman: I never meant to insinuate that you are cheap. What I said was that I can afford to, so I do.PS: I LOVE spending time under my car.
<small>[ July 18, 2002, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
07-18-2002, 02:43 PM
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Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? i bought my SS used, and with it was a folder full of the oil change receipts. Oils changed were done every 3k with regular old dino oil. I bought the car with 28k miles on it. And first thing i did was put 5w30 Mobil One in it with a K&N oil filter. Ive always told myself id change my oil every 3k... but i find myself changing it sooner, more like.. 2k... But you also have to keep in mind that 99% of my driving is city, so its either stop and go or WOT... A lot of fuel ends up in your oil with driving like this. And you can smell it when you drain the oil. I change my oil often to avoid problems. Better safe than sorry in this case for me... Oil is cheap in comparison to what you spent on the car. Whats 40 bucks for a oil change.... Nothing really. My next oil change, im switching over to either Redline or AMSoil. Im also going with thicker oil.. instead of 5w30, probably something more like 10w40 or 15w50. My fellow mechanics recommended me to use thicker oil in my SS. My friend runs 15w50 in his viper... and another friend uses 20w50 in his supercharged tacoma. Higher oil pressures equal longer life. just my 2 cents
07-18-2002, 03:16 PM
#17
TECH Senior Member
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by StevieZ:
<strong>Fulton 1 .I think you are missing the point. It is not the oil I am worried about, it is the crap floating around WITHIN the oil that concerns me. If you drive your car as hard as I do, then there is definitely going to be some metal sludge on your magnetic drainplug. (when is the last time you pulled the plug and saw it clean as a whistle?) The plug along with the filter do a good job of cleaning your oil but by no means do they rid the oil of ALL the contaminates and metal which acumulate after a few thousand miles of hard driving.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">But with a good oil filter, it will trap those particles, and with a good oil it will be able to neutralize any acids that form due to blowby (which will be very low anyways in a new engine) There are only three ways that dirt can get into your oil, one is through the air filter (which is why I don't use a K&N) one is through wear metals from the engine (which are greatly reduced when using a good oil, especially one with moly) and third is from blowby. There really isn't a lot of "bad stuff" in your oil after only 3k, especially on a tight new engine. If you did oil analysis on that oil at 3k, it would show you exactly what's in the oil, and you'd be surprised at the findings.
<strong>Fulton 1 .I think you are missing the point. It is not the oil I am worried about, it is the crap floating around WITHIN the oil that concerns me. If you drive your car as hard as I do, then there is definitely going to be some metal sludge on your magnetic drainplug. (when is the last time you pulled the plug and saw it clean as a whistle?) The plug along with the filter do a good job of cleaning your oil but by no means do they rid the oil of ALL the contaminates and metal which acumulate after a few thousand miles of hard driving.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">But with a good oil filter, it will trap those particles, and with a good oil it will be able to neutralize any acids that form due to blowby (which will be very low anyways in a new engine) There are only three ways that dirt can get into your oil, one is through the air filter (which is why I don't use a K&N) one is through wear metals from the engine (which are greatly reduced when using a good oil, especially one with moly) and third is from blowby. There really isn't a lot of "bad stuff" in your oil after only 3k, especially on a tight new engine. If you did oil analysis on that oil at 3k, it would show you exactly what's in the oil, and you'd be surprised at the findings.
07-18-2002, 03:22 PM
#18
TECH Senior Member
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RTCamaroSS:
<strong>i bought my SS used, and with it was a folder full of the oil change receipts. Oils changed were done every 3k with regular old dino oil. I bought the car with 28k miles on it. And first thing i did was put 5w30 Mobil One in it with a K&N oil filter. Ive always told myself id change my oil every 3k... but i find myself changing it sooner, more like.. 2k... But you also have to keep in mind that 99% of my driving is city, so its either stop and go or WOT... A lot of fuel ends up in your oil with driving like this.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How do you know this? If you get oil analysis done they show you how much fuel is in the oil, and I see lots of cars with city mileage that still show less than 0.5% fuel in the oil.
And what you said about higher oil pressure is not really true in all cases. An engine that has been designed to run a 10w30 or 5w30 oil can run into long term problems when running a 20w50 oil, as that oil is too thick and can actually provide less lubrication. The engine has to work harder to pump the thicker oil, which creates more heat and more friction if that engine wasn't designed with the thicker oil in mind. An old 350 can run on 20w50, but a modern engine isn't designed that way, it has tighter clearances. A good rule of thumb is to never go more than one step higher than the car makers recommend. So if they say 10w30 or 5w30, you can go to a 10w40 or 15w40, but not to a 20w50.
<strong>i bought my SS used, and with it was a folder full of the oil change receipts. Oils changed were done every 3k with regular old dino oil. I bought the car with 28k miles on it. And first thing i did was put 5w30 Mobil One in it with a K&N oil filter. Ive always told myself id change my oil every 3k... but i find myself changing it sooner, more like.. 2k... But you also have to keep in mind that 99% of my driving is city, so its either stop and go or WOT... A lot of fuel ends up in your oil with driving like this.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How do you know this? If you get oil analysis done they show you how much fuel is in the oil, and I see lots of cars with city mileage that still show less than 0.5% fuel in the oil.
And what you said about higher oil pressure is not really true in all cases. An engine that has been designed to run a 10w30 or 5w30 oil can run into long term problems when running a 20w50 oil, as that oil is too thick and can actually provide less lubrication. The engine has to work harder to pump the thicker oil, which creates more heat and more friction if that engine wasn't designed with the thicker oil in mind. An old 350 can run on 20w50, but a modern engine isn't designed that way, it has tighter clearances. A good rule of thumb is to never go more than one step higher than the car makers recommend. So if they say 10w30 or 5w30, you can go to a 10w40 or 15w40, but not to a 20w50.
07-18-2002, 03:26 PM
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Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">when is the last time you pulled the plug and saw it clean as a whistle</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually, from my experience the majority of metal shavings tend to be out by the second oil change. My general break-in regimen is as follows:
500 miles - dino oil
1500 miles - dino oil
3000 miles - synthetic oil
followed by oil analyses to determine future intervals.
I tend to find a great deal of metal shavings during the first oil change, some but less on the second, and very little thereafter. This has been my consistent observation with many of my new vehicles.
A good filter will go a long way to keeping particulate out of the oil. That's why I don't do extended intervals on a manual trans, for example. If I were to go more than 6000-7000 miles on the oil, I would replace the oil filter.
500 miles - dino oil
1500 miles - dino oil
3000 miles - synthetic oil
followed by oil analyses to determine future intervals.
I tend to find a great deal of metal shavings during the first oil change, some but less on the second, and very little thereafter. This has been my consistent observation with many of my new vehicles.
A good filter will go a long way to keeping particulate out of the oil. That's why I don't do extended intervals on a manual trans, for example. If I were to go more than 6000-7000 miles on the oil, I would replace the oil filter.
07-18-2002, 03:50 PM
#20
Re: What oil to use on my new ws6? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I tend to find a great deal of metal shavings during the first oil change, some but less on the second, and very little thereafter. This has been my consistent observation with many of my new vehicles.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not so much shavings but more like minute particles that wipe off as a silver sludge. When I do my oil changes at 3K the plug is almost completely clean.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not so much shavings but more like minute particles that wipe off as a silver sludge. When I do my oil changes at 3K the plug is almost completely clean.