damaged crank threads!?!
damaged crank threads!?! Well I think I broke a thread in the crank when removing the pulley earlier on in the build. I screwed out the bolt most of the way and put the 3 arm puller on the bolt to help get the pulley off the rest of the way as recommended in tutorials.
I was putting my new bolt in and I could only turn it half a turn with my hand and thats as far as I could turn it. I then pulled it out and from what I could see on the end of the bolt was a crank thread
Reason why I believe it was a crank thread was because it was almost a full ring rough on the outside and smooth on the inside. So I probably stripped the first most thread in the crank and now it wont allow me to thread in the bolt?
How many turns should I normally be able to turn the crank bolt into the crank by hand?
I did some research on here and Im hoping that maybe I could get away with using a 12mm x 2.0 pitch tap to clean up the threads??
All input would be appreciated!!!
I was putting my new bolt in and I could only turn it half a turn with my hand and thats as far as I could turn it. I then pulled it out and from what I could see on the end of the bolt was a crank thread
Reason why I believe it was a crank thread was because it was almost a full ring rough on the outside and smooth on the inside. So I probably stripped the first most thread in the crank and now it wont allow me to thread in the bolt?
How many turns should I normally be able to turn the crank bolt into the crank by hand?
I did some research on here and Im hoping that maybe I could get away with using a 12mm x 2.0 pitch tap to clean up the threads??
All input would be appreciated!!!
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
if all you did was pull out the outer-most thread coil, then you can probably get away with using a balancer installation tool. it sounds like if you use the right tool, you should be able to thread it right in with no tap work neccessary. get the right tool before you make it worse.
see figure 1 in this pdf:
http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/GMCrankBalancer.pdf
thats what you need.
see figure 1 in this pdf:
http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/GMCrankBalancer.pdf
thats what you need.
Trending Topics
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
Get you a tap, lubricate it well, and it will be ok.
I've fucked up crank threads before and it sucks. Good Luck.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
The tutorials say to use a longer bolt to push the pulley off, and pull the pulley on. You should not use the stocker, as it's not long enough to have enough threads in the crank. I use a bolt that's about 3/4" longer than the stocker. I can screw it in 'till it bottoms out, then push on it. I may have to remove the puller and back the bolt out a bit to get it all the way off, but the pulley is pretty loose by then. 
Originally Posted by mmmchickenboy
IMO there is a good possibility that the threads will accept a bolt right now. I would not mess with the threads just yet. Get the right tool, or a new bolt (you'll need it anyway) and try to thread it in. But DONT use the new bolt to pull on the damper.
I've fucked up crank threads before and it sucks. Good Luck.
I've fucked up crank threads before and it sucks. Good Luck.
I also have a new crank bolt, and a old crank bolt I found in my toolbox from my first crank removal 3 years ago when I swap'd in my first cam.
I tried by hand threading in that old crank bolt, and the long bolt tool, and it tries to position the bolt sideways while turning, then binds and thats it.
I really dont wanna try with a tool at all and risk doing any more damage.
Thats why Im thinking a tap and lots of lube, but willing to do whatever will work. 
The threads are buggered and you only choice is to chase them with a tap. Use plent of lube and make sure it stays straight. Go slow. Hopefully it is only the last thread or two that is bad, and once squared away, the tap will go in without too much effort. Next step would be a heli-coil, but try the correct tap first.
my crank threads are screwed! lol the botl pulls out. the correct thread size is 16 mm 2.0 thread pitch. if you get a 16mm 2.0 pitch tap lube it very well and clean the threads you'l be fine. me on the other hand i have to drill and helicoil my crank.
WD-40 is fine...
If its too messed up, you could consider doing away with the bolt and pin it in like some of the blower guys do.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=458
If its too messed up, you could consider doing away with the bolt and pin it in like some of the blower guys do.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=458
Originally Posted by TwistedSS
WD-40 is fine...
If its too messed up, you could consider doing away with the bolt and pin it in like some of the blower guys do.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=458
If its too messed up, you could consider doing away with the bolt and pin it in like some of the blower guys do.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=458
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Buy some cutting oil.
Originally Posted by aNuBiS
Sounds good, will do. Just ordered a m16x2 in town here, will be in monday, was under 20$, well see how it goes. Thanks