My Engine Committed Suicide Yesterday
09-16-2011, 03:20 PM
#381
It is honestly a giant pain in the ***. I'd be happy if the car never blew up and I just got to drive it daily.- New Ebony dashboard and dash pad (Coolant temp wiring) = HAVE
- Pioneer AVIC-D3 double din head unit = HAVE
- Cobalt digital gauges and angle rings = HAVE
- Innovative blue DB wideband gauge and LC1 = HAVE
- Gauge mount materials, 3x blue LED, + Wiring = $100 ish
I'm working on an email now to get some of the questions I have on these things out of the way.
In regards to the interior panels I haven't worked on them in a long time. I'm close to being done with them, but I need to order another can of glue. I forgot to close the lid on the little I had left and it dried out. I still have to do the sail and rear panels so the amount of glue I had might have been close anyways. I don't want to start on them again / open a new can of glue until I have the rear panels trimmmed for the mini tubs.
I bought all of the everything for the interior panels as a kit from this link: https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...l#post13446476 Keep in mind it is now over a year old. The roll is 36x54 and I'm not sure how many yards of fabric it worked out to being. The material is actually ebony leather with a white backing. Wrapping the panels is meticulous, labor intensive, and a giant pain in the ***, but... They look F ing amazing when they're done. If you choose to do it be patient and make sure you just concentrate on getting the wrinkles out. A heat gun is invaluable.
09-23-2011, 08:13 PM
#382
I got a little motivated last night....
I started by fitting my shift boot and metal ring from Redline Goods. I had to bend the ring a little to get a nice seal around the edges, but I think it looks pretty good.
I hadn't battled with getting the center console in the car in a while so after fighting with it for a long time and getting really sweaty I just decided to dive into the next big project on my list... Removing the cracked dash board and pad.
My dash pad was in great condition when my car blew up, but that was forever ago, and the years of sitting in the sun took their toll. It actually didn't break any more when I went to pull it out.
I'm going to add it and the old dash board to my 93 for sale thread. If the car doesn't ever sell and I get around to putting it back together I'll have about 50% of the parts to do it from the things I've replaced from this car.
Slowly getting there. Getting all of the fasteners out is the easy part, but unplugging all of the wiring, relays, and other electrical connectors attached to the dash is the pain in the ***. When I go to reinstall the new one I'm going to make potential future removals much easier.
This area of wiring was my last snag on getting everything out. I was getting pretty frustrated, but finally got it all out.
Finally free and trying to get it out of the car. I can't open either door of the car more than half way as I have my tool bench on one side and my 93 on the other. It makes things a little difficult.
Finally out of the car.
Here's the extra trim pile. If I ever get around to it I'm going to install the head unit in my 95 as all it has in it now is a non working factory radio / tape player.
A few little oops along the way.
All of this stuff fell out of the dash as I was removing it. Part of them might have been / were me, but I think a couple others were just floating around in there.
Here is my replacement dash board. I need to find one ebony AC vent as one got damaged in shipping. If someone has an extra on feel free to let me know.
Next up on my plate is removing some of the extra wiring in the car that I am no longer going to need, removing the passenger airbag, and trimming the large aluminum brace in the dash. It should be a decent amount of weight and help offset all of the wiring I'm going to add for the gauges, wideband, shift light, and new head unit.
I started by fitting my shift boot and metal ring from Redline Goods. I had to bend the ring a little to get a nice seal around the edges, but I think it looks pretty good.
I hadn't battled with getting the center console in the car in a while so after fighting with it for a long time and getting really sweaty I just decided to dive into the next big project on my list... Removing the cracked dash board and pad.
My dash pad was in great condition when my car blew up, but that was forever ago, and the years of sitting in the sun took their toll. It actually didn't break any more when I went to pull it out.
I'm going to add it and the old dash board to my 93 for sale thread. If the car doesn't ever sell and I get around to putting it back together I'll have about 50% of the parts to do it from the things I've replaced from this car.
Slowly getting there. Getting all of the fasteners out is the easy part, but unplugging all of the wiring, relays, and other electrical connectors attached to the dash is the pain in the ***. When I go to reinstall the new one I'm going to make potential future removals much easier.
This area of wiring was my last snag on getting everything out. I was getting pretty frustrated, but finally got it all out.
Finally free and trying to get it out of the car. I can't open either door of the car more than half way as I have my tool bench on one side and my 93 on the other. It makes things a little difficult.
Finally out of the car.
Here's the extra trim pile. If I ever get around to it I'm going to install the head unit in my 95 as all it has in it now is a non working factory radio / tape player.
A few little oops along the way.
All of this stuff fell out of the dash as I was removing it. Part of them might have been / were me, but I think a couple others were just floating around in there.
Here is my replacement dash board. I need to find one ebony AC vent as one got damaged in shipping. If someone has an extra on feel free to let me know.
Next up on my plate is removing some of the extra wiring in the car that I am no longer going to need, removing the passenger airbag, and trimming the large aluminum brace in the dash. It should be a decent amount of weight and help offset all of the wiring I'm going to add for the gauges, wideband, shift light, and new head unit.
09-25-2011, 12:21 PM
#383
I went into work yesterday morning at 8:00 am and was sent home at 8:47am AKA giant waste of time so... I figured with all of the day ahead of me and nothing to do I should work on my car and knock out as much as I can. It won't look like much, but two things to keep in mind:
1. I work slowly.
2. I am color blind.
My first major task was removing all of the extraneous wiring from the car that a previous owner had added and trimming down the OEM harness slightly. Prepare to be bombarded with pictures as I took quite a few today. My goal for the OEM harness trimming was simply in removing the airbag system and a couple small things that a previous owner had messed with. There were five areas of wiring I had to work on.
I've now trimmed a body harness out of the car, my 93 and still inside of the car with my Formula. I have to say that getting the wiring out of the harness was way easier with it laid out on the floor of my garage, but if I had to really had a choice I would do it in the car. You can see how all of the wires are run, how they connect to things, and pretty much know where they're going to run to. With the harness out of the car you lose that visual reference and the more time you take off from when you removed the harness from the car and start trimming it the worse it gets. Unless you've labeled things ahead of time you'll forget what plugs and have to back track.
With the harness in the car though you'll spend more time unwrapping it and fighting with routing... like I did today.
In working through the harness though I did find myself questioning a couple things. The first is that I noticed this seemed very odd. I'm not sure if this is OEM or not. This plug is located just to the left of the passenger airbag in the dash. It is on the same strand of wires as the light in the glove compartment, a relay, and the light that attaches to the dash pad. What is it and why is it looped like that?
My other point of uncertainty was with this radio plug. The other end of it wasn't hooked to a damn thing and my radio still worked perfectly fine. Was this for an amp or the Bose rear large speaker that mounts on the driver's side where the spare tire area would be?
Here is all of the wiring I managed to remove from the car today:
I'm trying to think of more things I could potentially trim out, but with this car I really want to keep all of the amenities. One area of wiring that I think I could trim a decent amount of weight out of is the OEM amp thing a ma jigger that mounts in the spare tire well. Does anyone have a pin out of that plug? I already pulled four wires out of it today.
The next major step was getting the new dash equally chopped up and ready to go into the car. I pulled sat the new dash next to the one that came out of my car and pulled the passenger airbag out of it first.
After that I flipped it over, pulled the ducting out, and figured out how I was going to hack the dash brace into pieces. I'd read about people trimming it down and knocking about 4.5-5.0 lbs out of the car, but only one person posted pictures and they weren't all that great. Here it is sitting in the dash:
Chop chop:
My next concern was with securing the front of the center console as now the brace that held it to the dash was gone. I decided to chop it down as well so that it'd still mount to the front body mount, but not to the dash brace:
A quick fresh coat of paint to keep it from rusting:
And... Mounted on the dash:
Here is everything that I was able to trim out of the dash, still keep the glove compartment functional, and still have everything mounted securely.
When reinstalling the dash I plan on attaching as little of the wiring harness to the dash and venting as I can. Removing all of the fasteners was easy, but the wiring took easily two to three times longer and was extremely frustrating.
My next steps are to finish reassembling the dash and hopefully getting towards wiring my gauges, shift light, AVIC-D3, and some conversion wiring to do the the PCM swap.
1. I work slowly.
2. I am color blind.
My first major task was removing all of the extraneous wiring from the car that a previous owner had added and trimming down the OEM harness slightly. Prepare to be bombarded with pictures as I took quite a few today. My goal for the OEM harness trimming was simply in removing the airbag system and a couple small things that a previous owner had messed with. There were five areas of wiring I had to work on.
I've now trimmed a body harness out of the car, my 93 and still inside of the car with my Formula. I have to say that getting the wiring out of the harness was way easier with it laid out on the floor of my garage, but if I had to really had a choice I would do it in the car. You can see how all of the wires are run, how they connect to things, and pretty much know where they're going to run to. With the harness out of the car you lose that visual reference and the more time you take off from when you removed the harness from the car and start trimming it the worse it gets. Unless you've labeled things ahead of time you'll forget what plugs and have to back track.
With the harness in the car though you'll spend more time unwrapping it and fighting with routing... like I did today.
In working through the harness though I did find myself questioning a couple things. The first is that I noticed this seemed very odd. I'm not sure if this is OEM or not. This plug is located just to the left of the passenger airbag in the dash. It is on the same strand of wires as the light in the glove compartment, a relay, and the light that attaches to the dash pad. What is it and why is it looped like that?
My other point of uncertainty was with this radio plug. The other end of it wasn't hooked to a damn thing and my radio still worked perfectly fine. Was this for an amp or the Bose rear large speaker that mounts on the driver's side where the spare tire area would be?
Here is all of the wiring I managed to remove from the car today:
I'm trying to think of more things I could potentially trim out, but with this car I really want to keep all of the amenities. One area of wiring that I think I could trim a decent amount of weight out of is the OEM amp thing a ma jigger that mounts in the spare tire well. Does anyone have a pin out of that plug? I already pulled four wires out of it today.
The next major step was getting the new dash equally chopped up and ready to go into the car. I pulled sat the new dash next to the one that came out of my car and pulled the passenger airbag out of it first.
After that I flipped it over, pulled the ducting out, and figured out how I was going to hack the dash brace into pieces. I'd read about people trimming it down and knocking about 4.5-5.0 lbs out of the car, but only one person posted pictures and they weren't all that great. Here it is sitting in the dash:
Chop chop:
My next concern was with securing the front of the center console as now the brace that held it to the dash was gone. I decided to chop it down as well so that it'd still mount to the front body mount, but not to the dash brace:
A quick fresh coat of paint to keep it from rusting:
And... Mounted on the dash:
Here is everything that I was able to trim out of the dash, still keep the glove compartment functional, and still have everything mounted securely.
When reinstalling the dash I plan on attaching as little of the wiring harness to the dash and venting as I can. Removing all of the fasteners was easy, but the wiring took easily two to three times longer and was extremely frustrating.
My next steps are to finish reassembling the dash and hopefully getting towards wiring my gauges, shift light, AVIC-D3, and some conversion wiring to do the the PCM swap.
09-25-2011, 07:16 PM
#385
I've pulled the dash out of four cars now so it wasn't too bad. This is the first Firebird style dash that I'd done though. I'd guess that it took me about 2 hours of constant working. I already had the center console, a pillars, and seats out so I had some extra room to work with. There's really only about 25 screws that hold it in, but the all of the wiring that attaches to the dash is the pain in the ***. You'll think you finally have it out and then some other wiring is still attached. That's why when I put the new one in I want to be very strategic with how I reattach the wiring.
09-30-2011, 12:41 AM
#386
Ok guys, need to bounce some ideas off of people as I don't really have any help on things. This might sound like a lot of rambling, but I've been doing some research in regards to a lot of electrical wiring for the car. Mostly in regards to installing my electric Autometer gauges: boost, oil, and fuel pressure, LC1 Wideband, DB gauge, and shift light. The amount of information on this site is amazing as otherwise I would have zero means to get things figured out. Reason number 2 I love LS1tech.... While I was typing this my computer gave me the blue screen of death and forced me to restart it. After spending 40+ minutes at that point typing I thought it was going to be lost forever. I fired it back up, recovered my IE tabs, and it was 90% there by some miracle!
I found all of the information for the boost gauge located in a sticky in the forced inductions section: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...elp-newbs.html
I still had a question though, Question #1: How many items can I pull voltage off of the same 12V switched source? IE, can I hook up every item to the same source or as I'm guessing is there a limit of voltage you can draw from one source?
My next step was finding information on mounting the oil pressure sending unit that Autometer provides with their gauges. I did a couple google searches and found these links: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...auge-help.html
There's a couple pictures of the same installation process in this thread: http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1120231
Which leads to Question #2: What sort of line and fittings do I need to hook this up? I am guessing that I obviously need a 1/8th NPT fitting to plug into the piece above the oil filter, but... what else? Where are you mounting the sending unit once you have it tied into that location?
After figuring out how those two items worked I started to draw some general ideas on how everything works. I did a few quick searches on the fuel pressure sending unit, but found that needed items for installation will vary depending on the fueling setup in the car. While searching I did find a couple very nice links in regards to using the same Autometer fuel pressure sending unit to log fuel pressure. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-pressure.html Which leads to --> http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....Pressure-input Which then leads to the detailed installation write up: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....ure-in-EFILive .
After seeing these variances I thought... Question 3: I plan on running a 10an feed line, 8an return, the fuel rails in parallel, and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (BRFPR). With running the rails in parallel where would be the ideal location for the Autometer fuel pressure sending unit?
- Should it be located...
- In the Y feeding the fuel rails?
- Before the BRFPR on one side of the rail?
- Before the regulator but after the rails?
- After the regulator in the Y return fitting?
While searching around I found this link on PT (Post 19). http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...2/#post3923553 This shows the Autometer fuel pressure sending unit right in the feed Y, but it seems he doesn't have a return line.
After having my mind blown by the EFI live forums I started looking in to data logging components (something I know nothing about). Question 4: With EFI live and a laptop in the car how does data logging work and how many inputs can you monitor? Do items like the flashscan V2 only allow tuning and data logging as an alternative to having the laptop in the car? I started looking at the Flashscan V2 and the Innovative DL-32 system, but decided to simply pass it over until I figured out some of the basics.
I'd previously been on here reading about Innovative's LC1 / DB gauge installation woes. After doing some reading and browsing their installation manual I think I have it right? Question 5: Does this sound correct?
Think I have correct...
- The Red wire of the LC1 goes to a switched 12v switched power source with a 5 amp fuse in line.
- The Black wire will have the push button and LED connected to it leaving the single wire now with two ends.
- The Blue, White, and ends of the Black wires get soldered to a single connector which is grounded to the back of a cylinder head only.
With the DB Gauge...
- The Red wire of the gauge goes to 12v switched power source.
- The Black ground wire will connect to the back of the cylinder head with the rest of the LC1's ground wires
- The White wire connects to the LC1's Brown wire
- The Yellow wire connects to the headlight power switch for dimming purposes.
Question #6...
- What can I do with the yellow wire of the LC1 now? It says I can program analog outputs and that it can be used as a narrow band sensor. Where would I run the yellow wire if I was to go that route?
All of the Autometer and the Innovative BD gauges mention in the wiring connecting the gauge to either a switched 12v lighting source or headlight power wire for dimming purposes. With currently having the dash out of the car I decided to check out.
The left connector is for the headlight dimming switch and the one on the right connects to the switch that turns the headlights on. Innovative's directions say not to tie the gauge into the dimming switch in all CAPS, but, "A headlight power wire." Question #7... Which wire is the one that you would tie into for power?
The last one is kind of simple. I was reading the directions for the Raptor shift light I have. I've got everything figured out, but Question #8... I am supposed to tie into the RPM signal for the car. I need some help locating that one.
I've been doing a ton of research on these few things lately as I'm really kind of stuck without getting this stuff done. I haven't bothered with checking out the 24 / 58x conversion box or some of the other things yet as this is my main concern. If anyone has something to add or answer / answers to any / many of the questions I'm all ears. Any help would be grealty appreciated!
Thanks
I found all of the information for the boost gauge located in a sticky in the forced inductions section: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...elp-newbs.html
I still had a question though, Question #1: How many items can I pull voltage off of the same 12V switched source? IE, can I hook up every item to the same source or as I'm guessing is there a limit of voltage you can draw from one source?
My next step was finding information on mounting the oil pressure sending unit that Autometer provides with their gauges. I did a couple google searches and found these links: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...auge-help.html
There's a couple pictures of the same installation process in this thread: http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1120231
Which leads to Question #2: What sort of line and fittings do I need to hook this up? I am guessing that I obviously need a 1/8th NPT fitting to plug into the piece above the oil filter, but... what else? Where are you mounting the sending unit once you have it tied into that location?
After figuring out how those two items worked I started to draw some general ideas on how everything works. I did a few quick searches on the fuel pressure sending unit, but found that needed items for installation will vary depending on the fueling setup in the car. While searching I did find a couple very nice links in regards to using the same Autometer fuel pressure sending unit to log fuel pressure. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-pressure.html Which leads to --> http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....Pressure-input Which then leads to the detailed installation write up: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....ure-in-EFILive .
After seeing these variances I thought... Question 3: I plan on running a 10an feed line, 8an return, the fuel rails in parallel, and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (BRFPR). With running the rails in parallel where would be the ideal location for the Autometer fuel pressure sending unit?
- Should it be located...
- In the Y feeding the fuel rails?
- Before the BRFPR on one side of the rail?
- Before the regulator but after the rails?
- After the regulator in the Y return fitting?
While searching around I found this link on PT (Post 19). http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...2/#post3923553 This shows the Autometer fuel pressure sending unit right in the feed Y, but it seems he doesn't have a return line.
After having my mind blown by the EFI live forums I started looking in to data logging components (something I know nothing about). Question 4: With EFI live and a laptop in the car how does data logging work and how many inputs can you monitor? Do items like the flashscan V2 only allow tuning and data logging as an alternative to having the laptop in the car? I started looking at the Flashscan V2 and the Innovative DL-32 system, but decided to simply pass it over until I figured out some of the basics.
I'd previously been on here reading about Innovative's LC1 / DB gauge installation woes. After doing some reading and browsing their installation manual I think I have it right? Question 5: Does this sound correct?
Think I have correct...
- The Red wire of the LC1 goes to a switched 12v switched power source with a 5 amp fuse in line.
- The Black wire will have the push button and LED connected to it leaving the single wire now with two ends.
- The Blue, White, and ends of the Black wires get soldered to a single connector which is grounded to the back of a cylinder head only.
With the DB Gauge...
- The Red wire of the gauge goes to 12v switched power source.
- The Black ground wire will connect to the back of the cylinder head with the rest of the LC1's ground wires
- The White wire connects to the LC1's Brown wire
- The Yellow wire connects to the headlight power switch for dimming purposes.
Question #6...
- What can I do with the yellow wire of the LC1 now? It says I can program analog outputs and that it can be used as a narrow band sensor. Where would I run the yellow wire if I was to go that route?
All of the Autometer and the Innovative BD gauges mention in the wiring connecting the gauge to either a switched 12v lighting source or headlight power wire for dimming purposes. With currently having the dash out of the car I decided to check out.
The left connector is for the headlight dimming switch and the one on the right connects to the switch that turns the headlights on. Innovative's directions say not to tie the gauge into the dimming switch in all CAPS, but, "A headlight power wire." Question #7... Which wire is the one that you would tie into for power?
The last one is kind of simple. I was reading the directions for the Raptor shift light I have. I've got everything figured out, but Question #8... I am supposed to tie into the RPM signal for the car. I need some help locating that one.
I've been doing a ton of research on these few things lately as I'm really kind of stuck without getting this stuff done. I haven't bothered with checking out the 24 / 58x conversion box or some of the other things yet as this is my main concern. If anyone has something to add or answer / answers to any / many of the questions I'm all ears. Any help would be grealty appreciated!
Thanks
10-01-2011, 06:36 PM
#388
The regulator goes post feed. So if you fed them both in parallel from the rear, the front of the rails would have to go to the regulator and then the bottom return goes to the tank. The sending unit will go in the fuel pressure regulator. There's an 1/8npt port on it, and that's what it's used for.
For logging parameters, it depends on the year. The 98 has the fewest. I think it's 24, and certain parameters use more than one.
I don't remember which wire it is, but again it's different for each cars. Here's a 2001
http://lt1swap.com/2001_PCM_CONN_PINOUT.htm
For logging parameters, it depends on the year. The 98 has the fewest. I think it's 24, and certain parameters use more than one.
I don't remember which wire it is, but again it's different for each cars. Here's a 2001
http://lt1swap.com/2001_PCM_CONN_PINOUT.htm
10-01-2011, 06:53 PM
#389
The regulator goes post feed. So if you fed them both in parallel from the rear, the front of the rails would have to go to the regulator and then the bottom return goes to the tank. The sending unit will go in the fuel pressure regulator. There's an 1/8npt port on it, and that's what it's used for.
For logging parameters, it depends on the year. The 98 has the fewest. I think it's 24, and certain parameters use more than one.
I don't remember which wire it is, but again it's different for each cars. Here's a 2001
http://lt1swap.com/2001_PCM_CONN_PINOUT.htm
For logging parameters, it depends on the year. The 98 has the fewest. I think it's 24, and certain parameters use more than one.
I don't remember which wire it is, but again it's different for each cars. Here's a 2001
http://lt1swap.com/2001_PCM_CONN_PINOUT.htm
I actually have a 99+ engine harness and PCM in the car now. The body harness is 98. Even if I was limited to 24 parameters should be fine in regards to what I have. The others offer 32, but for a larger cost. I think I'm going to go through and tie the fuel pressure sending unit into the EGR wiring like the EFIlive forums link. I'm just trying to get all of the wiring stuff done while I have the dash out of the car. I don't want to have to do some of the same work 2-3 times.
Thanks for the PCM pinout, but I'm looking for the one that connects to the factory amp thing in the spare tire well. All of the wires here run into it and you can see it attached to the wheel well.
10-01-2011, 08:18 PM
#391
^ Dot, haha. That is a very good point.
Are you looking for a whole dash, pad, or part of the trim? I bought the dash board and pad from a member a year or so ago. The guy shipped them freight and built the most amazing crate for it.
EDIT: I just found the amp pinout and a lot of other information on it in here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html
Double EDIT: I think that the part of the wiring harness I removed from the head unit that plugged into the back of the head unit was for the factory CD changer. I'll have to check on the colors of the wires when I get home.
Are you looking for a whole dash, pad, or part of the trim? I bought the dash board and pad from a member a year or so ago. The guy shipped them freight and built the most amazing crate for it.
EDIT: I just found the amp pinout and a lot of other information on it in here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html
Double EDIT: I think that the part of the wiring harness I removed from the head unit that plugged into the back of the head unit was for the factory CD changer. I'll have to check on the colors of the wires when I get home.
Last edited by Beaflag VonRathburg; 10-01-2011 at 08:33 PM.
10-02-2011, 11:20 PM
#392
I've managed to answer a few of my questions so far through doing a lot of research. I thought I would post the answers for anyone that may potentially have the same questions later on.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From my 9-25-11 Post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/15431962-post383.html
Questions Answered:
Question: Was this (plug on the back of the OEM Monsoon cd player) for an amp or the Bose rear large speaker that mounts on the driver's side where the spare tire area would be?
Answer: That plug is for the OEM CD changer. Even if your car is not equiped with a CD changer the wiring will still be inside of the car. It will look like this: http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...g/PA010010.jpg
Question: Does anyone have a pin out of that (OEM amp located in the spare tire area) plug?
Answer: https://ls1tech.com/forums/5962246-post5.html Located in this post / sticky: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html
Question Still Unanswered:
Question 1: In working through the harness though I did find myself questioning a couple things. The first is that I noticed this seemed very odd. I'm not sure if this is OEM or not. This plug is located just to the left of the passenger airbag in the dash. It is on the same strand of wires as the light in the glove compartment, a relay, and the light that attaches to the dash pad. What is it and why is it looped like that?
Pictures of said wiring:
http://64.19.142.13/i395.photobucket...g/P9230010.jpg
http://64.19.142.10/i395.photobucket...g/P9230011.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From my 9-30-11 Post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/15451543-post386.html
Questions Answered:
Question: I plan on running a 10an feed line, 8an return, the fuel rails in parallel, and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (BRFPR). With running the rails in parallel where would be the ideal location for the Autometer fuel pressure sending unit?
Answer: Question: In installing my Raptor shift light I am supposed to tie into the RPM signal for the car. I need some help locating that one.
Answer: Full installation information: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...-tap-into.html
Awesome link for pretty much any car: https://ls1tech.com/forums/3844437-post54.html
Questions Still Unaswered:
Question 2: How many items can I pull voltage off of the same 12V switched source? IE, can I hook up every item to the same source or as I'm guessing is there a limit of voltage you can draw from one source?
Question 3: In installing my Autometer electric oil pressure sending unit in the OEM block off above the oil pan what sort of line and fittings do I need? I am guessing that I obviously need a 1/8th NPT fitting to plug into the piece above the oil filter, but... what else? Where are you mounting the sending unit once you have it tied into that location? Visual example: http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1120231
Question 4: With EFI live and a laptop in the car how does data logging work and how many inputs can you monitor? Do items like the flashscan V2 only allow tuning and data logging as an alternative to having the laptop in the car? Has anyone tried an ELM327 interface for data logging? I found a little information here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-software.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...are-other.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...oid-phone.html
Question 5: In connecting my LC1 wideband and DB gauge does this sound correct?
Think I have correct...
- The Red wire of the LC1 goes to a switched 12v switched power source with a 5 amp fuse in line.
- The Black wire will have the push button and LED connected to it leaving the single wire now with two ends.
- The Blue, White, and ends of the Black wires get soldered to a single connector which is grounded to the back of a cylinder head only.
With the DB Gauge...
- The Red wire of the gauge goes to 12v switched power source.
- The Black ground wire will connect to the back of the cylinder head with the rest of the LC1's ground wires
- The White wire connects to the LC1's Brown wire
- The Yellow wire connects to the headlight power switch for dimming purposes.
Question #6: What can I do with the yellow wire of the LC1 now? It says I can program analog outputs and that it can be used as a narrow band sensor. Where would I run the yellow wire if I was to go that route?
Question #7: Which wire is the switched 12v lighting source or headlight power wire for dimming purposes that you would tie into for an LC1 or Autometer gauge? Visual reference: http://64.19.142.12/i395.photobucket...g/P9290004.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
All of my recent efforts have been in regards to wiring and I'm slowly figuring things out. I went through the Monsoon sticky and used the wiring diagram of the factory amp to figure out the wires that I had removed were:
F13 - GRAY - right rear midrange speaker negative output
F14 - WHITE - right rear midrange speaker positive output
F15 - RED - left rear midrange speaker positive output
F16 - PURPLE - left rear midrange speaker negative output
My car only has four speakers in it and I plan on keeping it that way so it worked out.
I started looking into what all was needed for installing my Pioneer AVIC-D3 head unit and related wiring. The Monsoon sticky and related link: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...installed.html are a good source of information, but the wiring still has me confused. I have all of this to get into the car:
I have the Ipod cable, bluetooth module, and GPS antenna figured out. I just am kind of confused in regards to the other wiring that needs to be tied into the car. There are a white and a black plug that connect into the back of the head unit and I have no idea how the wiring of those connectors needs to be run. I'm going to try and contact the member that I purchased it from, if that fails download the user manual, and start reading.
Again if anyone has answers to any of these questions I'd love to hear them.
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From my 9-25-11 Post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/15431962-post383.html
Questions Answered:
Question: Was this (plug on the back of the OEM Monsoon cd player) for an amp or the Bose rear large speaker that mounts on the driver's side where the spare tire area would be?
Answer: That plug is for the OEM CD changer. Even if your car is not equiped with a CD changer the wiring will still be inside of the car. It will look like this: http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...g/PA010010.jpg
Question: Does anyone have a pin out of that (OEM amp located in the spare tire area) plug?
Answer: https://ls1tech.com/forums/5962246-post5.html Located in this post / sticky: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html
Question Still Unanswered:
Question 1: In working through the harness though I did find myself questioning a couple things. The first is that I noticed this seemed very odd. I'm not sure if this is OEM or not. This plug is located just to the left of the passenger airbag in the dash. It is on the same strand of wires as the light in the glove compartment, a relay, and the light that attaches to the dash pad. What is it and why is it looped like that?
Pictures of said wiring:
http://64.19.142.13/i395.photobucket...g/P9230010.jpg
http://64.19.142.10/i395.photobucket...g/P9230011.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From my 9-30-11 Post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/15451543-post386.html
Questions Answered:
Question: I plan on running a 10an feed line, 8an return, the fuel rails in parallel, and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (BRFPR). With running the rails in parallel where would be the ideal location for the Autometer fuel pressure sending unit?
Answer:
The regulator goes post feed. So if you fed them both in parallel from the rear, the front of the rails would have to go to the regulator and then the bottom return goes to the tank. The sending unit will go in the fuel pressure regulator. There's an 1/8npt port on it, and that's what it's used for.
Answer: Full installation information: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...-tap-into.html
Awesome link for pretty much any car: https://ls1tech.com/forums/3844437-post54.html
Questions Still Unaswered:
Question 2: How many items can I pull voltage off of the same 12V switched source? IE, can I hook up every item to the same source or as I'm guessing is there a limit of voltage you can draw from one source?
Question 3: In installing my Autometer electric oil pressure sending unit in the OEM block off above the oil pan what sort of line and fittings do I need? I am guessing that I obviously need a 1/8th NPT fitting to plug into the piece above the oil filter, but... what else? Where are you mounting the sending unit once you have it tied into that location? Visual example: http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1120231
Question 4: With EFI live and a laptop in the car how does data logging work and how many inputs can you monitor? Do items like the flashscan V2 only allow tuning and data logging as an alternative to having the laptop in the car? Has anyone tried an ELM327 interface for data logging? I found a little information here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-software.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...are-other.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...oid-phone.html
Question 5: In connecting my LC1 wideband and DB gauge does this sound correct?
Think I have correct...
- The Red wire of the LC1 goes to a switched 12v switched power source with a 5 amp fuse in line.
- The Black wire will have the push button and LED connected to it leaving the single wire now with two ends.
- The Blue, White, and ends of the Black wires get soldered to a single connector which is grounded to the back of a cylinder head only.
With the DB Gauge...
- The Red wire of the gauge goes to 12v switched power source.
- The Black ground wire will connect to the back of the cylinder head with the rest of the LC1's ground wires
- The White wire connects to the LC1's Brown wire
- The Yellow wire connects to the headlight power switch for dimming purposes.
Question #6: What can I do with the yellow wire of the LC1 now? It says I can program analog outputs and that it can be used as a narrow band sensor. Where would I run the yellow wire if I was to go that route?
Question #7: Which wire is the switched 12v lighting source or headlight power wire for dimming purposes that you would tie into for an LC1 or Autometer gauge? Visual reference: http://64.19.142.12/i395.photobucket...g/P9290004.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
All of my recent efforts have been in regards to wiring and I'm slowly figuring things out. I went through the Monsoon sticky and used the wiring diagram of the factory amp to figure out the wires that I had removed were:
F13 - GRAY - right rear midrange speaker negative output
F14 - WHITE - right rear midrange speaker positive output
F15 - RED - left rear midrange speaker positive output
F16 - PURPLE - left rear midrange speaker negative output
My car only has four speakers in it and I plan on keeping it that way so it worked out.
I started looking into what all was needed for installing my Pioneer AVIC-D3 head unit and related wiring. The Monsoon sticky and related link: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...installed.html are a good source of information, but the wiring still has me confused. I have all of this to get into the car:
I have the Ipod cable, bluetooth module, and GPS antenna figured out. I just am kind of confused in regards to the other wiring that needs to be tied into the car. There are a white and a black plug that connect into the back of the head unit and I have no idea how the wiring of those connectors needs to be run. I'm going to try and contact the member that I purchased it from, if that fails download the user manual, and start reading.
Again if anyone has answers to any of these questions I'd love to hear them.
10-02-2011, 11:56 PM
#393
Staging Lane
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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I'm Afraid, mine may be going down this road too...It's knocking horribly and I just replaced the stock rockers with ones that are supposed to fit.. I know how you feel, mine just lost power and pressure one day and I was heartbroken. I'm hoping to get her running soon and strong...
this is what she sounds like after replacing the broken rocker arms
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnpQjA-ViBs
this is what she sounds like after replacing the broken rocker arms
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnpQjA-ViBs
10-03-2011, 02:45 PM
#395
I REALLY need some help guys. I plugged in the gauge cluster and reconnected the grounds so I could put voltage to the car. I was attempting to check for 12v sources and the switched lighting source, but... Every time I connect the positive terminal of my battery the horn will honk continuously. I cannot get it to turn off unless I disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. I tried pulling the airbag to see if the horn leads were messed up... they weren't. I then disconnected the plug for the horn under the steering column and it is still going off. Could this have anything to do with the airbag wiring being removed from the car? As in the car thinks the airbags went off and is honking the horn?
I REALLY need help with this guys as this is completely derailing me working on the car right now. I have tons of alcohol and will buy a sub for anyone that can come over to help me figure this out.
I REALLY need help with this guys as this is completely derailing me working on the car right now. I have tons of alcohol and will buy a sub for anyone that can come over to help me figure this out.
10-03-2011, 06:22 PM
#398
^ I was going to do that as a temporary fix, but I would still have the power draw as soon as I connected the battery.
It ended up being the horn relay. I sent a text to a friend of mine and he called it right off the bat. My fuses are mounted down in front of the driver's front tire. When I cut the hole to put them down there I made it too small to pull the panels back through there without MAJOR disconnecting, removing the front wheel, other things, and a general pain in the ***. I pulled the relay for the fog lights and stuck it in there for now and no more honking! I'm going to go pick up a new relay and some fuses for my gauges here in a little bit before Advanced Discount Auto closes. Then, cut a WAY larger hole for my fuse boxes to come through.
Thanks for the quick replies guys. You have no idea how annoying it is to have your car not stop honking at you.
He also told me I can hook my gauges up to one switched power source. I'll have pictures and details later. I'm going to try and salvage today despite the major time spent on trying to figure the honking issue out.
It ended up being the horn relay. I sent a text to a friend of mine and he called it right off the bat. My fuses are mounted down in front of the driver's front tire. When I cut the hole to put them down there I made it too small to pull the panels back through there without MAJOR disconnecting, removing the front wheel, other things, and a general pain in the ***. I pulled the relay for the fog lights and stuck it in there for now and no more honking! I'm going to go pick up a new relay and some fuses for my gauges here in a little bit before Advanced Discount Auto closes. Then, cut a WAY larger hole for my fuse boxes to come through.
Thanks for the quick replies guys. You have no idea how annoying it is to have your car not stop honking at you.
He also told me I can hook my gauges up to one switched power source. I'll have pictures and details later. I'm going to try and salvage today despite the major time spent on trying to figure the honking issue out.
