Misinformation? Or Am I Just Dumb?
#1
Misinformation? Or Am I Just Dumb?
Ok theres a member on this board, who is telling me that the stock rods in ls1 motors, as well as all motors made after the 80's are forged???
Now am I really that dumb, or is he just that wrong???
I told him, What is the point of buying forged rods....
He says you dont have to...
So Whats the real answer?
Now am I really that dumb, or is he just that wrong???
I told him, What is the point of buying forged rods....
He says you dont have to...
So Whats the real answer?
#7
Originally Posted by Tainted
yup, take it from the boy who put 2 holes in a block, broke a piston and a rod all on start up the ls1 isnt as great as everyone thinks
Show me a broken LS1 crank....
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#9
TECH Senior Member
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From: Vancouver,[KITSILANO].B.C. Canada *WestCoast*
Originally Posted by Tainted
hes a ****** idiot... you wanna see an all mighty "forged" ls1 rod?
and that happened on START up, so much for the LS1's "strong" bottom end huh?
and that happened on START up, so much for the LS1's "strong" bottom end huh?
#10
Turb I never called you dumb, I just said you dont know what your talking about.
I never said that you dont have to buy forged rods! I can tell you didnt read that info I sent you or you would not have posted this.
I never said that you dont have to buy forged rods! I can tell you didnt read that info I sent you or you would not have posted this.
#11
Originally Posted by 2000TurboVert
Im with you tainted... I was pretty sure they were just stock steel, i believe casted rods!
#13
Thank you, the same thing I told him in the pms. Hot forged powder metal.
Just to help you out Turb, dont get excited and got out and buy all of the ls1 rods you can even though thier forged, because I can tell the word forged gets you excited!
Just to help you out Turb, dont get excited and got out and buy all of the ls1 rods you can even though thier forged, because I can tell the word forged gets you excited!
#14
Originally Posted by Tainted
hes a ****** idiot... you wanna see an all mighty "forged" ls1 rod?
and that happened on START up, so much for the LS1's "strong" bottom end huh?
and that happened on START up, so much for the LS1's "strong" bottom end huh?
You must be as dumb as he says you are. I guess, since you broke your motor that makes you a specialist?
#15
Originally Posted by yobabiesdaddy2001
what do you mean stock steel, how do you think steel is formed in the shape of the rod? Uh...... maybe forging or casting etc......lol, I can tell you think that Forgeing is a type of metal.
If that is the case, which is VERY WELL could be, or is.... Why buy a forged rod, why not just buy 180,000 psi rod bolts and forget buying 500-600 dollar rods?
#17
Originally Posted by yobabiesdaddy2001
what do you mean stock steel, how do you think steel is formed in the shape of the rod? Uh...... maybe forging or casting etc......lol, I can tell you think that Forgeing is a type of metal.
#18
Originally Posted by StripedZebra
Show me a broken LS1 crank....
#20
Hot forged powder metal is still weak compared to a 4340 forged h-beam rod, a true billet rod, or any of the patented stuff out there from Howards, Crower, or GKN. Most stock engines die because of rod bolt failure or piston failure at the top ring landing due to improper tune.
But the stock rods with an upgraded rod bolt can handle some RPMs and a good shot of nitrous. I don't think you're "saving" $600 by sticking with the stock rods, though. Buy some Eagle 3D, Scat, or Compstar forged rods for under $600 with the ARP2000 rod bolts and have enough rod for anything upto 900HP or so without adding a lot of weight to the reciprocating assembly.
If you have enough money and too much power/RPM, the Carrillo H-Beams with SPS Carr bolts are the best.
But the stock rods with an upgraded rod bolt can handle some RPMs and a good shot of nitrous. I don't think you're "saving" $600 by sticking with the stock rods, though. Buy some Eagle 3D, Scat, or Compstar forged rods for under $600 with the ARP2000 rod bolts and have enough rod for anything upto 900HP or so without adding a lot of weight to the reciprocating assembly.
If you have enough money and too much power/RPM, the Carrillo H-Beams with SPS Carr bolts are the best.