samh_08

Hey guys, new here. I've been reading a whole lot on this site because I plan on swapping a LS1 into my 1986 monte carlo. If im going to spend the money on doing the swap, i want to do it right the first time and make it last. I would like to know what is all needed to make a solid 400rwhp through stock heads and a 4L60 with the 4.11 gears I already have in the monte. Please help the newbie. Thanks guys, Sam

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

full bolts ons and a mild cam

teke184

iTrader: (5)

through an auto...you'll need more than a mild cam. nothing real radical either.

you should be good with something as tested and true as the futral F14 cam, or the TSP torquer 2. even those may come up in the 390s...but you'll have a great driving car with plenty of power under the curve.

if the engine is out, you may want to just pony up and get some cheap heads. something like the TEA stage 1 5.7L heads would make a much smaller cam perform right up there with the big boys in a cam only setup.

the 228r cam with mild head work would make a very tame 400rwhp car easily.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

ding dig for teke ive got ported 241 heads and im using a 228R cam hoping to make over 400rwhp with full bolt ons minus the EWP but im also gonna use a 3000 stall so it wont ever show on a dyno

1320 killer

iTrader: (6)

he said thru stock heads. your heads are ported. he also has an auto and 4.11's those gears are gonna take some power away on the dyno. I had a MS3 with stock heads and all the bolt ons long tubes y pipe and a cut out. with 3.73's and it mad 408 rwhp and 413 torque. I would say go with the ms3 or ms4 TSP (texas speed and performance) makes some bad *** cams that can make great power for cam only cars.

ssheets

iTrader: (1)

So an M6 car with a Futral F14 cam, long tubes, 60cc ported heads with 2.02" intakes should break the 400rwhp mark handily?

I know a 90/90 would seal the deal, but that will come later.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

you need to be careful with your cam selection, keep in mind those big cams you gotta spin high and dont have much in the way of low end

samh_08

as far as the cam..what would be a happy medium for good around town fun and solid upper RPM performance? Im a little lost on stalls as well. I was reading the sticky on here about stalls and cams and all it says is to match your stall and cam approprietly. Help on that subject would be great.

Is there a kit or something that would give me replacement pushrods and all of that good stuff?

By the way, Im actually still looking for a LS1 and tranny to buy, so if anyone has something for me, im all ears. Thanks for the help so far, its very much appreciated.

RIDINFILTHY

iTrader: (10)

why do u have to have 400rwhp? so u can say u have it or to go fast to make that kinda
power u will need a decent cam and a 3500 stall to use the power so it will be hard to make the dyno see the power threw the stall and the auto. so if u want to go fast with a auto thats easy but it wont really show on the dyno

samh_08

its not that i need 400rwhp, i was just shooting for numbers like that. does a stall make the car feel boggy, or just the other way around? how much more ponies will i gain from an exhaust system with just headers, 14 inches of straight 2.5" pipe and glasspacks?

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

well a converter "takes away power" because it allows more slippage and therefore it looses power on the dyno. BUT in real life a properly matched heads/cam whatever car properly matched with a converter is a serious contender. they can launch high and they take out "dead spots" during a roll.

So a stalled car can put a serious hurtin on a manual car, but you may also wanna look into a tranny rebuild with a shift kit and a cooler as well

ssheets

iTrader: (1)

Everyone bags on people for citing a hp number as a goal. I understand that fast cars are more than just a peak hp number, but you can either say I want a car that will do 200mph if your a top end freak, or a car that will do 10's in the quarter if 1320 is your thing, or if you're just building a motor and trying to benchmark the results of your selections and skill than hp is a metric that does have relevance.

I want to make 425rwhp because that's my goal. I'll be happy with anything over 400 because people with similar mods are making at least that much hp and if I can match that than I can feel good about all of my efforts. If I had access to a track and planned on running my car in the 1/4 mile than I would be citing an et time, but my car is more for show and personal pleasure so I'm using hp a good metric. My deisgn work also freely sacrificed peak power for power under the curve to give me more of the personal pleasure stuff. I am also budget limited so the FAST 90/90 is going to have to wait too.

My point is, torque and horsepower are the industry standard measurements for power rating a motor. I think it's a valid measurement to use for personal engine building goals as long as you understand the bigger picture.

All that being said, I want 425rwhp so I can call my car a 500HPSS...just because it sounds so cool.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

I would just run 3.73 gears. I had a Monte Carlo SS and it came with th 3.73s and they ran just fine. You just can't bolt an LS1 to any old 4L60E. There is such a big difference between the A4s bolt patterns that a 4L60E has 3 different listed sections. The bellhousing, center section and tailshaft housing all have different part #s. Why are you so set on a LS1? The LS2 in GTOs were rated at 400hp stock. Thats where I would start.

samh_08

well im sticking with my 4.11's for now. put it this way..i dont plan on being a hardcore racer at the drag strip, maybe take there a couple times a year. its more of a play car that i want to get up and go with no hesitation, which is why i would prefer throttle response and plenty of low end power (stall & cam?). simply put: great get up and go power with good top end pull without revving it to the moon.

NC98Z: the main reason im not going w/ a LS2 is because of money and not having the support that there is for a LS1 swap into a G-body.

Im not sure about whats so different about pre 01 cars, but i've been hearing it alot so im trying to find a low mileage 02 LS1 w/ a 4L60 tranny that fits it.

One last question for now..what is this talk about buying 7.425 pushrods and dual springs..whats the advantage? Thanks guys, Sam

ssheets

iTrader: (1)

Dual springs are needed (better) for large faster ramp rate cams. They provide a margin of safety as theoretically one spring can break and the other spring will keep things together long enough for you to shut it down. The stiffer springs are needed for big cams to prevent valve float. Heavy springs require a warmup period when you cold start the motor.

I've always gone under the ideal that 3.73 are a great gear for A4s and 4.11s are great for M6s. Of course that's for just driving and not track use.

raceme@you'dlose.com

You could get the LS6 long block from GM it comes with a Camaro pan if you order the right one. With headers you'll be damn close and with a mild cam over. Unless you are just set on an LS1.

samh_08

for now lets say im set on an LS1. thanks for the spring info...do you think i'll need them if im a guy who likes to work the motor over alot?

what about my other questions in the post above?

1320 killer

iTrader: (6)

also to help seal the deal I would try to go with a ls6 intake or better if you don't have one already.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Longer pushrods tend to quiet valvetrain noise ( providing you dont exceed max pre load ) but run them at the limits of low pre load and you'll make all sorts of valvetrain noise ( sounds just like a sbc with a loose rocker at idle ) but it will make more power and run longer/safer etc. The dual springs are cuz there have been soooooooo many breakages and problems with the single bee hive springs. Personally i ran them once and would never do it again. Patriot golds fan here. Great price. Amazing springs and they come with titanium retainers.

As for your power levels? Cresting 400 on stock heads with an auto is going to take sacrifices. Personally I'd go for a 224/228 or a 228 cam you'll put down 380ish but it will have great power under the curve and be wicked to drive.

On stock un-ported heads the T-Rex is the cam for max power. It was designed around stock heads limitations and designed to extract as much as possible out of them. Big cam will get your number but probably wont be any faster as one of those smaller cams not to mention the brutal driving habits. But it sure will sound EVIL!!!

Make sure you bank on a good tune as well it is mandatory for peak power and drive ability especially with an auto.

samh_08

how hard is it to tune your own cam in? i was planning on buying a HPTuner or EFIlive anyways.

So you're saying go for the dual springs? Could you point me in the right direction on this page? http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=175&catid=49

To make this clear, Im not trying to go ***** out on stock heads, Im just trying to wake the car up a bunch and give it the most power across the ENTIRE powerband..not just the top end. Also, would I need a different converter with this set up..Im not looking for all out drag race performance (Just to have a reliable, healthy, powerfull motor).