Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I bought this engine a while ago for $710 complete with harness and all. Sold all the accessories and intake i didnt need for about $520 so really i have a $200 LS1 longblock here. When i got the crank pulley had been dinged, timing cover was cracked, oil pan bottom was cracked off, and the corner oil pan bolt hole at the front of the motor was cracked off. Half of its there still.

Anyway i'm getting ready to put this engine into my 68 as basically a template if it works it works if not no biggie but atleast everything will be there for the new bottom end. While putting in valve springs i used compressed air and all the cylinders leaked slowly but equally.

When turning the motor over with plugs in it it makes compression but slowly leaks out on every cylinder I'm assuming this is because the piston rings havent been heated in a while to seal. I have off the oil pan and windage tray as well as timing cover right now.

There is slide side to side play in the rods but no up and down play. The cylinder walls on each cylinder look brand new (engine had 60k on it and was 100% stock). Is there anyway to tell if there is a spun rod bearing or anything? I was wondering if the car shut off at impact or ran for a while without oil and if any damage was done. Everything seems fine just figured i'd double check.

crazygn

iTrader: (6)

i would think not with out pulling the rod caps, if it was bad you might be able to see a color change on the caps from the heat. If you pull the caps you will know, plus the locks on the bearings will be gone when spun

zman1969

iTrader: (91)

best way since you'll have the pan off is to pull all the rod and main caps(see your service manual) and inspect - you sure don't want to get in your car and get it running and theres this "knock" noise going on and you have to pull it again

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

your going to have some side clearance in the rods, i would double check that side clearance to make sure it is within its tolerance. since you have the engine out, why not just remove the crank and rod caps and see? maybe even freshen it up with new bearings, rings and gaskets?

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Basically i plan on building a nice 4xx motor for it when the engine goes. The block has a cracked bolt hole on the oil pan so I'm not sure if there was any damage done to the rest of the block that i can see or to the crank as the pulley was hit so i figured i'd just start it up and try rather than waste more money on an engine that might not be any good to begin with. The parts i've been buying for the engine are all interchangeable with a stroker setup. If i go and buy new rings and bearings it could all just be a waste if the crank or block is damaged.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Where would i get bearings and how much are they? Rings as well. Also the heads are still on the motor and would preffer not to remove them.

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

well, if you have that much damage, i would suggest getting the block checked out. removing the heads is no big deal since the engine is out and it is cheap insurance. you should be able to get bearings and rings from most vendors here, or at any one of the large mail order companies. if you wanna just throw it together and hope for the best, it will end up being a much larger pita in the long run.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Well i called up advanced auto and autozone and they both carry the rod bearings for $2.99 a pair so $24 for new rod bearins i figure i'll just throw them on. They asked me if i want standard or .002 oversize. Which should i get? As far as the crank bearings and all they only sell them in kits with the crank or something they told me.

My crank is a 12552216