Who has broken a stock rod with ARP bolts?
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Who has broken a stock rod and what were the circumstances? Did you have ARP rod bolts? I'm wondering how far I could push a shortblock with stock rods/crank and forged pistons.
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Is this true. Someone ran 9.90's with stock rods and ARP Rod bolts? How much nitrous?
"Just a bit of info.
I am running a JE piston, stock crank and STOCK RODS!
I wish to heck that I put in a forged rod now, but
I firmly belived that I could consistantly put 550rwhp
on the stock rods if they were worked and if I could
keep the knock out of the motor.
So far my faith in the stock rod has come through.
Almost everyone said, a stock rod wouldn't last into
the low-10's. I wanted to find out(and save some
money) in this build-up.
When I put the motor together, I had a machine
shop resize and stress relieve the stock rods.
The rods were in my last motor(heads/cam/nitrous)
and they had 36k miles before I pulled that one
apart and re-used the rods in the current motor.
Stock rods ran 9.81!
Jay Johnson"
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I dunno, but 2001's and up are supposed to have stronger rod bolts right from the factory, although I doubt as strong as ARP's. I've heard on this board several times that going above 6700 rpm with a pre-2001 low end is walking on thin ice. So with your 2001 and ARP rod bolts you should be good for close to 7000 rpm.
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Is this true. Someone ran 9.90's with stock rods and ARP Rod bolts? How much nitrous?
"Just a bit of info.
I am running a JE piston, stock crank and STOCK RODS!
I wish to heck that I put in a forged rod now, but
I firmly belived that I could consistantly put 550rwhp
on the stock rods if they were worked and if I could
keep the knock out of the motor.
So far my faith in the stock rod has come through.
Almost everyone said, a stock rod wouldn't last into
the low-10's. I wanted to find out(and save some
money) in this build-up.
When I put the motor together, I had a machine
shop resize and stress relieve the stock rods.
The rods were in my last motor(heads/cam/nitrous)
and they had 36k miles before I pulled that one
apart and re-used the rods in the current motor.
Stock rods ran 9.81!
Jay Johnson"
Wow!!!! I guess he kept the rpm's down.. Any idea on how high he was shifting? This is really important.,.
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fellas, Jay has a full race setup, w/ a glide, and alot of weight reduction. im sure you can pull this off, but the rods are going to let go. from what understand this was a 175 shot, but not more than that. i'd be VERY leery about doing this, especially if you were just trying to save a buck. but to each his own,
so what happens when you cant keep the knock out?
i've pulled apart countless warranty motors from the dealership, and i cant tell you guys how many stock rods from these gen III engines i've seen snapped in half. broken right off above the big end of the rod. i.e. NOT a rod bolt failure. and this was on a STOCK un-modified motor experiencing detonation.
I wish to heck that I put in a forged rod now, but I firmly belived that I could consistantly put 550rwhp on the stock rods if they were worked and if I could keep the knock out of the motor.
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i've pulled apart countless warranty motors from the dealership, and i cant tell you guys how many stock rods from these gen III engines i've seen snapped in half. broken right off above the big end of the rod. i.e. NOT a rod bolt failure. and this was on a STOCK un-modified motor experiencing detonation.
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I'm no kind of expert, but from what I've read
con rods fail in tension, not compression, and
this is RPM and rotating mass more than
HP/TQ/cylinder pressure.
Now, bent rod would be downstroke, power related.
Speed shop I used to go to had a collection of
bent aluminums from their nitro rail.
I can't see a powdered metal rod being as good
in tension as a forged steel or even ductile iron
one.
con rods fail in tension, not compression, and
this is RPM and rotating mass more than
HP/TQ/cylinder pressure.
Now, bent rod would be downstroke, power related.
Speed shop I used to go to had a collection of
bent aluminums from their nitro rail.
I can't see a powdered metal rod being as good
in tension as a forged steel or even ductile iron
one.
#13
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I "WAS" going to use stock rods w/ ARP bolts in my next motor (if I did a 388) but after I talked to different people and found that I could get Eagle forged SBC rods w/ ARP bolts for ~$450 from Summit, Jegs, and others.....its just not worth the risk.....
I will put $5K in a motor....then have to start over because I wouldn't pay $500 for new rods (stocks went...)...thats not cool...
I will put $5K in a motor....then have to start over because I wouldn't pay $500 for new rods (stocks went...)...thats not cool...
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#14
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I'm no kind of expert, but from what I've read
con rods fail in tension, not compression, and
this is RPM and rotating mass more than
HP/TQ/cylinder pressure.
con rods fail in tension, not compression, and
this is RPM and rotating mass more than
HP/TQ/cylinder pressure.